Lem-06

yea tuning the engine basically makes the engine optimized to run on the octane you pick, say a 93 octane tune will take full advantage of the fuel and get every bit of horsepower it can from it, within reason because there could always be a margin of error.

as your car is now filling it with 93 is just wasted $$ because it isnt setup to run it and does just fine on 87

Googleme

@808muscle cheers to that!

@Lem-06 ah I see...i guess that makes sense but with that all youre doing is increasing compression ratio right? Although that does up your hp ive heard people saying theyve tuned their 300hp stang to 400 with just a tune and that seems a bit much...probably lying to gullable people i guess.

FivePointToTheOh

Tunes unlock alot of potential, but they DO NOT take 300 HP and turn it into 400HP. My Mustang bone stock ran 380HP on the dyno, after a tune and a CAI it ran 405HP. Its a huge improvement that you can really feel in the seat of your pants. Its not the compression ratio, Its the fuel delivery, the Air to fuel ratio, Throttle response, many aspects go into making a tune functional. But they are well worth it!

Googleme

interesting...ill look more into it thanks for the base.

Norm Peterson

1. Assume that sooner or later you'll lurch the car a couple of feet unexpectedly. Don't worry about why it might happen.

2. Put the transmission in either 1st or reverse, choosing the gear that would lurch you away from the greater consequences.


Norm

Googleme

#2 seems like common sense but never thought of that sadly. Anyways im thinking ill just use the ebrake and never do that again because think about it, what situation can you think of that having the car in gear and the ebrake up will solve, but the ebrake alone wont?

I can't think of one and trust me since that day i've thought long and hard.

EDIT: what if I put it in 4th gear or something? maybe that would work?

Lem-06

yea if they are claiming a 100hp jump using only a tune on our motors, call their asses out and tell them they are full of it.

Googleme

Well Lem this is what I had in mind at the moment. Sometimes I browse craigslist and look at cars or whatever.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst...010962386.html

I'm not sure what the rules are on posting external links on these forums, but I see youre online and the link is obviously valid and not gonna hand out a virus so ill give it a try for now.

EDIT: as im looking at it again this CL post is a joke for a couple reasons

Norm Peterson

Over time and use, P-brake cables can stretch (you end up not applying as much brake as the handle position makes you think you are), or they can corrode, fray, and individual wires can break (the cable then unwinds as you pull on it, so it isn't as rigid, for the same end result as a stretched cable).

Engine compression braking (what leaving the car in gear relies on) is not subject to a similar level of deterioration until the motor is in such bad condition that you already know you need to get it rebuilt. You do want either 1st or reverse, as those gears give engine compression the best mechanical advantage. Other gears provide less braking effect, but are at least better than nothing.

Water can get inside the cable, and although it's probably an alien weather condition to SoCal residents, if it's below 32°F it then freezes and locks the cable in whatever position it was left in. And at least the early S107 Mustangs have a reputation for letting just this happen. Then you have a P-brake that you either can't use because it's "stuck off" or a car that you can't drive because it's "stuck applied". I'll take "stuck off" every time.

On an incline I wouldn't ever trust the P-brake alone and if it's steep enough I don't trust 1st/reverse by itself either. Awareness of conditions.


Norm

Googleme

Hmm never knew any of that. You're right we don't have the freezing problem but we definitely have steep hills on SoCal. Ill just make it into a habit, leave myself a note on the steering wheel if I have to idk, ill figure it out thanks