New Brakes
11-08-2013, 03:40 PM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
Typically, you want to do a few moderately abrupt stops from say 25mph. Then a few very abrupt stops from like 45mph. Let the breaks cool completely. And, maybe a couple more moderate stops. This is just off the top of my head. If you were to buy hawk pads, the box has the procedure inside.
But after a week of driving shouldn't the "bed" process be done by now on its own, especially if stopping quickly is the "bed" process?
11-08-2013, 04:05 PM
#12
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 148
[QUOTE=LordRipberger;8307027]Though I understand the purpose of this, I think I have done that just from driving. When I first put the pads on, I did a couple quick stops at about 20mph in the parking lot to make sure they were working. Since then I have had several quick stops from interstate driving. I have not slammed on the brakes however.
But after a week of driving shouldn't the "bed" process be done by now on its own, especially if stopping quickly is the "bed" process?
The best new brake bed-in process is as follows: The procedure is several stops of increasing effort with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60 mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is done there is the chance for uneven pad material transfer. Find a large empty parking lot or a road with little traffic. After completion, I can smell the brake pad material adhering to the rotors and can even see a slight blue tinge on the discs.
But after a week of driving shouldn't the "bed" process be done by now on its own, especially if stopping quickly is the "bed" process?
The best new brake bed-in process is as follows: The procedure is several stops of increasing effort with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60 mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is done there is the chance for uneven pad material transfer. Find a large empty parking lot or a road with little traffic. After completion, I can smell the brake pad material adhering to the rotors and can even see a slight blue tinge on the discs.
11-08-2013, 11:37 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 289
It really depends upon the compound of the brake pads. Harder pads will squeal but give better performance in situations where the brakes get hot. Softer pads will squeal less but don't hold up to performance situations as well.
I use the Performance Friction Z-Rated pads front and back. Very little squealing. They're fine on the street and even better on the track. ($70 -$100 per axle). Also, dust is minimal
The efficiency of the brakes are proportional to how much they squeal when they are cold.
I use the Performance Friction Z-Rated pads front and back. Very little squealing. They're fine on the street and even better on the track. ($70 -$100 per axle). Also, dust is minimal
The efficiency of the brakes are proportional to how much they squeal when they are cold.
Last edited by JThor; 11-10-2013 at 09:17 PM.
11-10-2013, 09:16 PM
#15
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 289
From Tirerack:
What are glazed pads?
When brake pad compounds are overheated, the components crystallize on the surface as the resins and binders begin to melt and break down. This crystallized surface has a lower friction coefficient that simply means it cannot grab the surface of the rotor with the same amount of force as the undamaged pad. The term glazed is used because the pad surface will look smooth, shiny, and metallic like a glazed ceramic tile. Once a pad has been glazed, it cannot be repaired and it needs to be replaced. Glazing is caused by overheating the brakes beyond the operating temperature designed for the pad and/or failure to follow the bed-in procedure for the pads. This type of damage is not a defect in the pad and is not covered under the manufacturer warranty.
http://www.tirerack.com/FAQ/results....ory=Brakes#126
What are glazed pads?
When brake pad compounds are overheated, the components crystallize on the surface as the resins and binders begin to melt and break down. This crystallized surface has a lower friction coefficient that simply means it cannot grab the surface of the rotor with the same amount of force as the undamaged pad. The term glazed is used because the pad surface will look smooth, shiny, and metallic like a glazed ceramic tile. Once a pad has been glazed, it cannot be repaired and it needs to be replaced. Glazing is caused by overheating the brakes beyond the operating temperature designed for the pad and/or failure to follow the bed-in procedure for the pads. This type of damage is not a defect in the pad and is not covered under the manufacturer warranty.
http://www.tirerack.com/FAQ/results....ory=Brakes#126
Last edited by JThor; 11-10-2013 at 09:30 PM.
11-10-2013, 09:28 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 289
Try spraying the Permatex Disc Brake Quiet this on the backing plate of the brake pad. I think NAPA sells it.
Last edited by JThor; 11-10-2013 at 09:33 PM.
11-12-2013, 07:16 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
The only thing that does not make sense to me is that they only squeal after they heat up. I make this statement because when I get in my car in the morning, I can usually get a few stops before they start to squeal. And if I have been driving for a bit without slowing down, such as on highway driving, they don't squeal until I have used the breaks a few times. So I am thinking they had time to cool down. Can anybody even explain what that can mean?