Hurst Shifter vs. MGW Shifter (LONG Comparison)
02-06-2014, 07:21 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 1,347
Vader, when you installed the shifter shaft in the bracket, did you let the shaft drop all the way until it hit the boot or did you raise it a 1/2 inch or so and then install? I recently installed one and could never figure out where the height should be set as it seemed to hit the shifter itself in 2,4,R just like the video stated. Now, the shift **** seems a little higher than I expected it to be and I just want some assurance from someone else that has recently installed.
02-06-2014, 10:57 PM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Az
Posts: 1,007
My hurst has held up well. Ive had it for about 10k and its doing good especially for being under 200. If I had more money at the time ya I would have done the mgw but the price difference is hard to justify without being able to trial it first.
02-07-2014, 09:46 AM
#15
02-07-2014, 10:27 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 406
I don't have the regular Hurst Competition Plus .... I have the Hurst Competition Plus Billet instead .... though I doubt there's a huge difference. Stock throw is like 4" 3-4th and the **** is so low that it pulls your arm down in casual use so that it's easy to bang your elbow & "funny bone" into the console lid, the stock Hurst shortens the throw, but still the **** is way too low.
After a couple trial runs, a few minutes in the shop and I had an extension to reangle and lengthen my stick to a position that fits me and my taste better and seeing as I love to tinker with stuff (never leave anything totally OEM stock)... it's perfect for me.
I figure if you are gonna do a real comparison, compare all. MGW looks to be perfect for those who want a bolt on item that allows some adjustment, Hurst looks great for those who maybe likje to so "tinker" and / or maybe just like the looks better. Besides, knowing me like I do, I probably would have found a way to modify / change the MGW as well.
I don't really see a need for a spring loaded 2-3 movement and it even occurs to me that might be a hinderance to a 3-2 smooth downshift?
Just wished I would have cleaned that smudge off!
Later ......
After a couple trial runs, a few minutes in the shop and I had an extension to reangle and lengthen my stick to a position that fits me and my taste better and seeing as I love to tinker with stuff (never leave anything totally OEM stock)... it's perfect for me.
I figure if you are gonna do a real comparison, compare all. MGW looks to be perfect for those who want a bolt on item that allows some adjustment, Hurst looks great for those who maybe likje to so "tinker" and / or maybe just like the looks better. Besides, knowing me like I do, I probably would have found a way to modify / change the MGW as well.
I don't really see a need for a spring loaded 2-3 movement and it even occurs to me that might be a hinderance to a 3-2 smooth downshift?
Just wished I would have cleaned that smudge off!
... etc ...
I made a pair of brackets that match, according to this drawing .... one is of 1/4" steel, the other is of 1/8" steel.
In the thicker piece, the top two holes are drilled small enough to tap the holes with a 3/8-24 tap.
All other holes are 3/8" diameter smoothies. I cut my part out of some 1-1/4" wide 1/4" thick steel bar stock.
(I whipped the drawing out almost by hand only to photo so I could post it fast. I can do better work.)
I then use longer 3/8-24 bolts from pass side to bolt lower portion of thick steel to shifter stub, and loosely slip the matching thinner steel on the bolt ends from driver's side. Then slip shift lever and two rubber sleeves or pads between the two steels (the chrome Hurst stick is about 1/4" thick at base, the shift stub is 3/8", so there's room for both rubber pads) and insert the provided 3/8-24 button headed socket screws that came with the shifter in from drivers side and just run in finger tight for now. Then apply two nylock nuts to ends of lower bolts and snug up thus locking lower bolts while securing the thinner steel plate against the shifter stub. Then I snugged up the upper two button headed bolts and ..... I wanted some thin lock nuts so they don't back out. I split a nut with a Dremel but you can get narrow nuts in 3/8-24 and do same, applied to exposed threads.
Boot rolled down to show bolts, excuse fuzziness please.
The shift lever base is near 1/8" narrower than the shifter stub so the rubber fills the void nicely. I LOVE this version most of all the positions!
Now, measured from the Seek button to the center of the upper hole in the "R" of "HURST" which is near center of ball it's 6-7/16 inches
.... and the top of the shift ball is 6-5/8 inches above console in 3rd gear ....
Gee, I could have wiped the smudge off the chrome!
and because the adaptation has angled the shifter mounting bolts backwards towards the rear, the ball drops on the way back to forth so that from the Seek button to the center of the upper hole in the "R" of "HURST" which is near center of ball it's 8-13/16 inches
.... and the top of the shift ball is 6 inches above console in 4th gear ....
.... and throw 3rd to 4th is 2-3/8" horizontally as the ball drops 5/8" ..... you can see how the shift lever is angled back as well.
In use, my arm is more bent at the elbow than before, elbow behind and above front of console lid even in 3rd, ball beside my thigh so no way I'm getting my "funny bone" slammed into the console lid!
Neutral is of course, between them as below.
And the shifter is centered in the car and console, though the boot offsets to the right.
... etc ...
I made a pair of brackets that match, according to this drawing .... one is of 1/4" steel, the other is of 1/8" steel.
In the thicker piece, the top two holes are drilled small enough to tap the holes with a 3/8-24 tap.
All other holes are 3/8" diameter smoothies. I cut my part out of some 1-1/4" wide 1/4" thick steel bar stock.
(I whipped the drawing out almost by hand only to photo so I could post it fast. I can do better work.)
I then use longer 3/8-24 bolts from pass side to bolt lower portion of thick steel to shifter stub, and loosely slip the matching thinner steel on the bolt ends from driver's side. Then slip shift lever and two rubber sleeves or pads between the two steels (the chrome Hurst stick is about 1/4" thick at base, the shift stub is 3/8", so there's room for both rubber pads) and insert the provided 3/8-24 button headed socket screws that came with the shifter in from drivers side and just run in finger tight for now. Then apply two nylock nuts to ends of lower bolts and snug up thus locking lower bolts while securing the thinner steel plate against the shifter stub. Then I snugged up the upper two button headed bolts and ..... I wanted some thin lock nuts so they don't back out. I split a nut with a Dremel but you can get narrow nuts in 3/8-24 and do same, applied to exposed threads.
Boot rolled down to show bolts, excuse fuzziness please.
The shift lever base is near 1/8" narrower than the shifter stub so the rubber fills the void nicely. I LOVE this version most of all the positions!
Now, measured from the Seek button to the center of the upper hole in the "R" of "HURST" which is near center of ball it's 6-7/16 inches
.... and the top of the shift ball is 6-5/8 inches above console in 3rd gear ....
Gee, I could have wiped the smudge off the chrome!
and because the adaptation has angled the shifter mounting bolts backwards towards the rear, the ball drops on the way back to forth so that from the Seek button to the center of the upper hole in the "R" of "HURST" which is near center of ball it's 8-13/16 inches
.... and the top of the shift ball is 6 inches above console in 4th gear ....
.... and throw 3rd to 4th is 2-3/8" horizontally as the ball drops 5/8" ..... you can see how the shift lever is angled back as well.
In use, my arm is more bent at the elbow than before, elbow behind and above front of console lid even in 3rd, ball beside my thigh so no way I'm getting my "funny bone" slammed into the console lid!
Neutral is of course, between them as below.
And the shifter is centered in the car and console, though the boot offsets to the right.
... etc ...
Later ......
Last edited by tbear853; 02-07-2014 at 10:56 AM.
02-07-2014, 04:32 PM
#17
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 1,347
I don't have the regular Hurst Competition Plus .... I have the Hurst Competition Plus Billet instead .... though I doubt there's a huge difference. Stock throw is like 4" 3-4th and the **** is so low that it pulls your arm down in casual use so that it's easy to bang your elbow & "funny bone" into the console lid, the stock Hurst shortens the throw, but still the **** is way too low.
After a couple trial runs, a few minutes in the shop and I had an extension to reangle and lengthen my stick to a position that fits me and my taste better and seeing as I love to tinker with stuff (never leave anything totally OEM stock)... it's perfect for me.
I figure if you are gonna do a real comparison, compare all. MGW looks to be perfect for those who want a bolt on item that allows some adjustment, Hurst looks great for those who maybe likje to so "tinker" and / or maybe just like the looks better. Besides, knowing me like I do, I probably would have found a way to modify / change the MGW as well.
I don't really see a need for a spring loaded 2-3 movement and it even occurs to me that might be a hinderance to a 3-2 smooth downshift?
Just wished I would have cleaned that smudge off!
Later ......
After a couple trial runs, a few minutes in the shop and I had an extension to reangle and lengthen my stick to a position that fits me and my taste better and seeing as I love to tinker with stuff (never leave anything totally OEM stock)... it's perfect for me.
I figure if you are gonna do a real comparison, compare all. MGW looks to be perfect for those who want a bolt on item that allows some adjustment, Hurst looks great for those who maybe likje to so "tinker" and / or maybe just like the looks better. Besides, knowing me like I do, I probably would have found a way to modify / change the MGW as well.
I don't really see a need for a spring loaded 2-3 movement and it even occurs to me that might be a hinderance to a 3-2 smooth downshift?
Just wished I would have cleaned that smudge off!
Later ......
I stated just my opinion. I had the Hurst from a month after I bought the car new in 08, to a week ago. It was a good product, I have a Hurst currently on 2 other sports cars (another mustang & a corvette). So I by NO means intend to put the Hurst down. Just simply stating that I tried something different & I liked it better. I've done that in the past with other parts as well & sometimes the original part I had was better than the second.
I applaud you for you ingenuity! I just like you cannot leave stock alone, therefore the almost instant move to a Hurst from the stock pretty much after a month of ownership.
Last edited by Vader GT; 02-07-2014 at 04:35 PM.
02-07-2014, 11:03 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 406
I don't have any issue with the MGW or your comparison. Perhaps I used poor wording when I wrote "I figure if you are gonna do a real comparison, compare all. ". It was by no means a criticism of your statements nor an invitation to include all shifters .... rather just a statement as to why I tossed in my $0.02 on the Hurst to add to the discussion.
02-08-2014, 08:28 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 1,347
I was just offering some info in thread titled "Hurst Shifter vs. MGW Shifter (LONG Comparison)".
I don't have any issue with the MGW or your comparison. Perhaps I used poor wording when I wrote "I figure if you are gonna do a real comparison, compare all. ". It was by no means a criticism of your statements nor an invitation to include all shifters .... rather just a statement as to why I tossed in my $0.02 on the Hurst to add to the discussion.
I don't have any issue with the MGW or your comparison. Perhaps I used poor wording when I wrote "I figure if you are gonna do a real comparison, compare all. ". It was by no means a criticism of your statements nor an invitation to include all shifters .... rather just a statement as to why I tossed in my $0.02 on the Hurst to add to the discussion.
Last edited by Vader GT; 02-08-2014 at 08:33 AM.
02-08-2014, 08:58 AM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 2,634
First here are the two I am doing the write up for.
1. The Hurst: http://www.americanmuscle.com/hurst-shifter-0509gt.html
2. The MGW: http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang2005_shifter.shtml
If some of you remember a few weeks ago I posted that my Hurst might be starting to what I described as get "loose". So I took it apart & the small plastic pieces that go into the shifter linkage were not in the best of shape. If I remember correctly, these transfer over from the stock unit, so even when the Hurst was new, they were already used. Instead of getting replacements, I decided to try the MGW based on HUGE positive feedback from folks here that run the MGW. The MGW also bring these plastic pieces NEW with the shifter.
Before I start, I have 3 sports cars & run Hurst Shifters on ALL 3, so I like the product & have been a fan of Hurst for years! That being said, comparing the 2 above there are 3 major differences. The price is more for the MGW, but in this case, you do get what you pay for. The Hurst is a VERY capable unit, but these are the 3 major differences/advantages that the MGW has IN MY OPINION.
1. Build quality, the MGW is a billet unit. My Hurst's powder-coating had started to fall off, leaving the steel bare. This will NOT be an issue with the MGW.
2. Adjustability, plainly stated, there are 10 levels of adjustment to be had with the MGW, 1 with the Hurst. You decide how long/short the throw. If I am not mistaken as little as 15% less throw than stock up to 50% shorter than stock. The Hurst has only 1.
3. 2nd to 3rd shift. The MGW is spring loaded, so it in essence makes you better at this shift, especially when racing or speed shifting. The difference here is HUGE & make for a very smooth shift into 3rd.
*Some other nice features are: soundproof material included with MGW (My Hurst would rattle), Adjustable height of shift **** & position, install video with step by step & written instructions. Finally I got a personal phone call from MGW with the build date & expected delivery of my shifter.
Overall, both are good quality items, YES the MGW is more expensive, but in my opinion it is a superior product. Hope this helps anyone thinking of upgrading their shifter.
Mike
1. The Hurst: http://www.americanmuscle.com/hurst-shifter-0509gt.html
2. The MGW: http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang2005_shifter.shtml
If some of you remember a few weeks ago I posted that my Hurst might be starting to what I described as get "loose". So I took it apart & the small plastic pieces that go into the shifter linkage were not in the best of shape. If I remember correctly, these transfer over from the stock unit, so even when the Hurst was new, they were already used. Instead of getting replacements, I decided to try the MGW based on HUGE positive feedback from folks here that run the MGW. The MGW also bring these plastic pieces NEW with the shifter.
Before I start, I have 3 sports cars & run Hurst Shifters on ALL 3, so I like the product & have been a fan of Hurst for years! That being said, comparing the 2 above there are 3 major differences. The price is more for the MGW, but in this case, you do get what you pay for. The Hurst is a VERY capable unit, but these are the 3 major differences/advantages that the MGW has IN MY OPINION.
1. Build quality, the MGW is a billet unit. My Hurst's powder-coating had started to fall off, leaving the steel bare. This will NOT be an issue with the MGW.
2. Adjustability, plainly stated, there are 10 levels of adjustment to be had with the MGW, 1 with the Hurst. You decide how long/short the throw. If I am not mistaken as little as 15% less throw than stock up to 50% shorter than stock. The Hurst has only 1.
3. 2nd to 3rd shift. The MGW is spring loaded, so it in essence makes you better at this shift, especially when racing or speed shifting. The difference here is HUGE & make for a very smooth shift into 3rd.
*Some other nice features are: soundproof material included with MGW (My Hurst would rattle), Adjustable height of shift **** & position, install video with step by step & written instructions. Finally I got a personal phone call from MGW with the build date & expected delivery of my shifter.
Overall, both are good quality items, YES the MGW is more expensive, but in my opinion it is a superior product. Hope this helps anyone thinking of upgrading their shifter.
Mike