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Would someone give me some Shaker upgrade suggestions?

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Old 02-20-2014, 03:41 PM   #1
RetiredSFC 97
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Default Would someone give me some Shaker upgrade suggestions?

Please!

I have had my Mustang for one week, and in that week, well actually within one day, I realized the Shaker is not what I first thought it might be. I'm satisfied with the Head Unit overall for what it is.

But as with most people I find the speakers sucking. I've read here, and all over the internet to the point I may have reached the end of the internet just looking for potential upgrades.

I know many people have just replaced the speakers with drop in 5x7/6x8 replacements and were happy. My question is, would 5.25 components be a better solution.

I am a JBL fan and have been for years, I have them in my Dodge Ram, and in my vette. I have picked out 4 options for myself and I can't decide what I should do.

Choice 1

6x8 Coax in the front and back and call it a day.

My question: will the 6x8 upgrade make me happy for the long haul.

Choice 2

5.25 components for now, then move to the rear with 6x8's, and replace the front subs with powered mid range speakers and lose the stock subs altogether.

My question: Will the 5.25 component upgrade make that much of a difference in the short term before I move on to other upgrades.

Choice 3

6.5 Components and then move to the rear, and replace the front subs with powered mid ranges.


I guess my biggest dilemma, or question is, will 5.25 be adequate up front? I can do a fabrication I found around here and make a 6.5 component work without drilling in my car.

I am not going to put a huge sub in my car as I don't listen to hip hop etc, I listen to country and classic rock. I believe the powered mid range would be adequate, but that's in the future.

I'm doing this a little at time so my checkbook doesn't start fighting with me. But within the next 2 years I want it completed. So I want an instant upgrade for now with the potential to just keep adding without redoing.

For those who know JBL I will be using their Power Series and I found a killer deal on some 5.25 components they are discontinuing, but I'm just not sure they would be that huge of an upgrade over what I have, because I have never had actual component speakers before. I was always happy with high quality coax's.
I hope I'm making sense here.

Thanks in advance
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:42 PM   #2
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Sorry for not putting this in the audio section, but it seems things die a slow death over there.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:27 PM   #3
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I haven't upgraded my speakers, but I did buy a kenwood ddx unit which enabled me to filter high and low pass, as well as the usual equalizers, range tuning and the other good stuff. Made a big enough difference for me so if anything at least get rid of the unit first. I have the shaker1000 setup. Was actually thinking about bumping up my speakers a little but then again I think the bass is loosening my door panels and stuff lol.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:22 PM   #4
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Replacing speakers isn't going to get you much. How a car's audio system "sounds" has far more to do with how the speakers are packaged and the EQ than the actual speakers used (within reason.)

How do you find the system lacking? That'll help us decide what to recommend you do.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:29 PM   #5
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^+1

I put in alpine type R's upfront and for whatever reason I lost a lot of my "mids" one week later I found myself replacing the head unit which I hadn't planned on doing. I'm not sure if the head unit provides more power or what but at first that sounded like crap too (way to much bass) I had to play w the equalizer and now I honestly am very happy with my setup. I will eventually throw a 10" sub in there but for most it probably isn't necessary. I'm a country fan too and FYI country bumps hard lol
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:42 PM   #6
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I love my JBLs. I bought 2 sets of 660c components. I used adapters to put the woofers in the door speaker location. I placed the tweeters in the interior trim pieces where the side mirrors are. Put the cossover on the door about 6 inches in from the lock rod on the top part of the door. Finally, I made adapters for the other 2 woofers and put them where the door subs were. This sounds amazing with plenty of volume. Why? Because the amps put out 2 ohms and these JBLs are 2 ohm. Perfect!. U did not use the second set of tweeters or crossovers.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:47 PM   #7
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I'm kinda confused on your setup, do you have any pics? Sounds very interesting!
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:52 PM   #8
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You can even use the power series in the stock location. Get the 660c set, put the woofer in the sub location and the tweeter where i did.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by califsp View Post
I love my JBLs. I bought 2 sets of 660c components. I used adapters to put the woofers in the door speaker location. I placed the tweeters in the interior trim pieces where the side mirrors are. Put the cossover on the door about 6 inches in from the lock rod on the top part of the door. Finally, I made adapters for the other 2 woofers and put them where the door subs were. This sounds amazing with plenty of volume. Why? Because the amps put out 2 ohms and these JBLs are 2 ohm. Perfect!. U did not use the second set of tweeters or crossovers.
I have thought of doing that exact same thing, with the same speakers! Thank you so much. Now I know it can work. So you just took the second set of 660c woofers and hooked them straight up in place of the door sub's without any other wiring changes?

And yes, the JBL is 2 ohm and should match straight up to the shaker system without any other amplification needed. And of course the infinity are also 2 ohm made by the same company Harmon. Of course you knew that already.

I ask my wife if she would drill holes in the car to mount tweeters and of course she said no way. I knew she would, not sure why I ask. She drives around in an 09 Camry with one speaker blown and she says it's fine. But at the end of the day it's my car and I'll do what I want.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:41 PM   #10
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2 things. First, the door subs are dual voice coil so each speaker has 2 sets of wires going to it. You only use the white wire (+) and the white wire with black stripe (-). The other set just seperate the + and - with tape and tape them down. Gorilla tape is the way to go. Second, you'll need 2 sets of adapters. The ones from a 2011 from Tousley/ AutoNation and a set of cheap 5x7 to 5 1/4 from ebay.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:44 PM   #11
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Third, leave the rear speakers alone.
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:40 PM   #12
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Yeah I know about the adapters. I called my local Ford dealer and they told me the adapters are on back order until 02/24. They are 14 and some change here. Autonation I think has them for around 12 bucks and I found some on line for 18 shipped. I'll wait until next week and see if I can get them from my Ford dealer and pick them up, they said there would be no shipping charges if I picked them up. But we have tax at almost 9%. If they are still on back order I'll just get them on line for a couple bucks more.

Thanks for your help. And thanks to everyone else for their suggestions. I've been pulling my hair out trying to get a nice system with as little cost as possible.

FWIW, in my Dodge Ram and my vette I have the Alpine 126BT, with the KTP 445 power pack, and the GTO 938 (in boxes) and GTO 638, in the vette, and the Dodge has the same except I have the GTO 928 and GTO 528's.
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:35 PM   #13
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I just wrote a 4 paragraph post explaining what I did to my system. Then as I was about to post it I was kicked out and said I was not signed in.

This the 4th time in the past week this has happened to me. So I'm done. Screw it.

I also had some tutorial stuff thrown in that I learned. Oh well, I did post a question about this in the appropriate place as well.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:10 AM   #14
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Quote:
Replacing speakers isn't going to get you much. How a car's audio system "sounds" has far more to do with how the speakers are packaged and the EQ than the actual speakers used (within reason.)
This is what I had in my 2012 Shaker 500, nothing can make them sound good, inho.Click the image to open in full size.
Quote:
I just wrote a 4 paragraph post explaining what I did to my system.
Wow, that sucks! I would like to read the whole post, I write long posts in Word or open office then cut and paste here.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:51 AM   #15
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what does weight have to do with anything? I don't buy speakers by the pound. that speaker uses a rare earth (neodymium) magnet which is significantly more powerful than the ceramic ferrite magnets typically used. The magnet needs to be like 1/8th the size for the same performance.

I've measured that particular speaker, BTW. the only real problem with it is the tweeter output is low. other than that it kicks the crap out of most aftermarket 5x7" speakers I've tried; it has lower distortion and better frequency response.

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Old 03-31-2014, 11:42 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chromeshadow View Post
This is what I had in my 2012 Shaker 500, nothing can make them sound good, inho.Click the image to open in full size.
Wow, that sucks! I would like to read the whole post, I write long posts in Word or open office then cut and paste here.
Just did it again. I tried to post what I did and it acted like I wasn't signed in. Forgot to copy it in case it kicked me out. Oh well.

I tried to do a thread this morning on exactly what I did with some useful information and same thing happened.

Posted a question in the help section to see what I may be doing wrong. At some point I will post what I did, but I'm frustrated right now.
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:16 PM   #17
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I do purchase speakers by the pound. A flimsy stamped metal frame will warp over time and temp, and cheap paper cones don't have good high freq response. Factory speakers are rated at 40W, which is an indication of limited cone travel and the inability to handle higher peaks. I don't think you can purchase a 40W 6x8 from any reputable Car speaker manufacturer.
I replaced mine with some 200W Pioneer triax and noticed a big improvement in sound, and Pioneer speakers don't always set the bar very high. And as you mentioned, you'll never get good high freqs out of the factory speakers.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:32 PM   #18
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Default Here is what I did

http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-...ub-wiring.html
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chromeshadow View Post
I do purchase speakers by the pound. A flimsy stamped metal frame will warp over time and temp,
steel doesn't work like that.

Quote:
and cheap paper cones don't have good high freq response.
no cone that size will have good high frequency response. it's a matter of physics. once the wavelength of the sound you're trying to make it reproduce gets smaller than the radius of the cone, the cone experiences "break up" modes which means its response gets ragged and peaky. Paper cones are actually better because they have high internal damping and respond well to treatments to control that break up. Downside is they're not water resistant unless coated.

Quote:
Factory speakers are rated at 40W, which is an indication of limited cone travel and the inability to handle higher peaks.
no, it's an indication of how much power the speaker can handle for long periods of time without being damaged.

Quote:
I don't think you can purchase a 40W 6x8 from any reputable Car speaker manufacturer.
The power ratings you see on aftermarket speakers are absolute, 100%, unmitigated BS. As an example, I've looked over a supposedly awesome aftermarket component set from a well-known speaker manufacturer. The marketing literature proudly stated that the woofer was rated for 60 watts RMS, and was rated for use from 40 Hz to 5 kHz. I thought it was funny that it was farting out 80% THD at 50 Hz at only 16 watts. Even worse, the intermodulation distortion was horrific; female vocals warbled horribly if there was any bass playing at the same time.

sparkly cones, cast titanium frames, and amusing ad copy don't do any good when the speaker fails at being a decent speaker.

Quote:
And as you mentioned, you'll never get good high freqs out of the factory speakers.
No, I said that particular speaker has low output from its tweeter. I didn't say anything about other factory speakers.

look, most factory speakers (from everybody) are junk. There are some which aren't and I can tell you why they aren't. Most aftermarket speakers are junk, but they're pretty. I'm sure some aren't junk, I just haven't found them yet.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
The power ratings you see on aftermarket speakers are absolute, 100%, unmitigated BS
Are you saying that I can run the 40 W factory sub with my Sony amps, same as my Shelby subs?
Here is a link to Triax speakers, they actually have a tweeter built in to give them excellent high freq response.
http://www.autos.com/aftermarket-par...axial-speakers
BTW, most good amps and speakers are tested with an Audio Precision system http://www.ap.com/

Not sure what you are using, but I am very familiar with the AP and the numbers it give you are not BS.
BTW ,woofers are not rated out to 5KHz and are not 60W. Shelby Kickers are 20Hz to 200Hz and rated at 200W.
I cal you out as complete BS!
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:14 AM
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