jz

Lol, so true. I just recently picked up a 2000 Jeep XJ. the Owner's manual was still in the glove box, in factory wrapping. Never once opened. I had a PDF of of the manual for my car while I waited for it to be built. Probably read it half a dozen times before taking delivery.

Read your manual, it will answer so many questions you have and better yet the ones you didn't even come up with yet.

Art161

I would use the type of engine oil that came with the car until at least 7500 miles. Until then, use full synthetic only if the car came with that from the factory. Otherwise the rings might not seat properly.

After 7500 miles, use full synthetic if you want, but stick with the weight specified in the Owner's Guide. Also, I recommend using only oil that has the API seal of approval. Manufacturers give all kinds of reasons why they sell oil that is not API approved. In some cases, the real reason they don't have API approval is because the oil contains more phosphorus than API will approve. Phosphorus is wonderful for keeping the engine clean, but it can kill catalytic converters.

outceltj

I felt the same way but I have personally seen what the same cam shafts look like while using royal purple compared to OEM oil. The cams were the same brand and color. When pulled from the motor there was a significant increase in darkness in the cam compared to that motor that was using royal purple. The cams looked brand new right out the box from the motor using royal purple. So there is a difference

jz78817

and how is "darkness" anything we should worry about?

Goldenpony

With 1200 miles on that pony, why are you changing tranny oil?

As for engine oil, read your owners manual, pick a brand of synthetic oil you like and can get locally and stay with it. Change the oil & filter every 5,000 miles or so and enjoy your ride. Don't over think it.

outceltj

I didnt say there was anything to worry about did I. Just stating my findings. There is a reason why people change there tranny oil from oem to synchromesh it shifts better. I believe my findings are something to consider. Now I'm not saying that using cheaper oil will blow your motor or cause catastrophic failure but there is evidence of a difference

SSG Steggy

I have been an AMSOIL user for many years. In multiple motorcycles, offroad trucks, jeeps, and my daily drivers. Until recently, I would have sworn by AMSOIL. I saw a demonstration at a car show where there was an electric motor with a shaft, an oil pan that the shaft sat in, an arm with a bearing that rested on that shaft and at the other end of the arm was removable weights. I don't remember the actual value of the weights, not that it is important, it's the principle I speak of. While demonstrating conventional oil, only one weight caused the bearing to lock the shaft and bearing was damaged. With AMSOIL in the oil pan, the demonstrator was able to add two additional weights before locking the shaft and gouging the bearing. With the royal purple, all five weights were added and shaft was still humming along. After the demonstrator stopped the test to inspect the bearing, there was no apparent damage, unlike the two previous bearings.
It is my assumption that by leaving a thin molecular strand of oil between the shaft and bearing, as would be the case between the piston and cylinder walls, the Royal Purple is the superior choice in that it offers greater wear protection.

I believe there is a youtube video of this demonstration, as well.

Derf00

Darkness on the lobes of the cam could indicate several things, the oil is overheating and burning onto the cam (being scorched). Scorching of oil shortens it's life and protection capabilities significantly.

Darkness could also indicate excess friction from either lubricant starvation or lubricant break down which causes excessive mechanical wear.

The list goes on but those are the two most common...

As far as the manual being the maintenance bible...uh not even close.

Most Domestic OEM's (and many foreign ones) don't indicate any interval for changing Brake and Power Steering Fluid, yet those are severely affected by moisture and particulate matter build up. Hence, every 3 years on average is when they should be changed.

Transmission fluid (auto fluid) in the Ford Mustang automatics for S197 and newer should be flushed every 30K miles. More often if the fluid temps regularly exceed 175F. Above that temp the fluid breaks down exponentially faster.

The list goes on and on about what the owners manual misses or doesn't cover...

As far as aftermarket lubricants, Most will meet AND/OR exceed the OEM stuff for protection. You just have to be sure the right weight and API specification is being used for the year car you have.

The API rating is the way oils have their detergents and additives summarized. API SG will have one package of additives while SM will have another one entirely.

You can in most cases use a newer rated API spec on an older car but not the other way around. I say in most cases because older cars sometimes require additional anti-wear additives that new oils lack. Using a newer oil in this case will actually wear the engine out faster (bearings).

Anyways... /rant

JCON

I'm using RP Synchromax but it doesn't like the cold. It's fine once it warms up. When I replace it I'm going with AMSOil.

Hamidar05

I used Royal Purple Synchromax - not to badmouth Royal Purple, but I would not recommend using it.

It was good for the first month or two, then it noticeably heated up my transmission when I'd drive my commute. I was not sure the fluid was doing it as I never payed attention before I swapped to Royal Purple Synchromax. I went to Valvoline Synchromesh (GM Spec) and it runs cool and shifts nicely. With the Synchromesh, it feels like there is an oil cushion when shifting, after a while the Synchromax did not feel like it was cushioning the synchros and it felt like I was wearing them down.

Just my unscientific opinion, so buyer beware