Wow! What a difference ... (Sound Deadening)
10-19-2007, 05:39 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 243
Wow! What a difference ... (Sound Deadening)
[font="courier new"]Well I finally(!) finished putting my car back together! I spent hours over the last week disassembling and reassembling my Mustang - and stuffing sound deadener in between! Was it worth it? I think so ...
My Results (yours will vary!):
* Rapping on the metal in most places made the car sound like a cheap tin can - sounds MUCH more solid now!
* The doors slam shut with an authoritative thump instead of giving off a cheap rattle
* Even the OEM Shaker 500 sounds GREAT now; highs and lows are much more sharper and clearer, and both bass and trebel sounds so much better - I don't think I need to change out the speakers or head unit
* A loud hailstorm outside? Noisy city streets? I couldn't hear the storm or ANYTHING else inside the car with the doors shut.
* I turned up the radio to a fairly loud setting, and I couldn't hear it outside of the car with the doors closed!
* It sounds as solid and noise-quiet as a luxury car now! If I had to estimate, I'd say it's 80% of the way to being "Lexus quiet"!!
* The ~2200rpm drone from my Magnaflow is gone ... and since I didn't deaden the metal above the muffler, I can still hear the sound of my muffler in the cabin when driving, and the sound of the motor. Other than that, almost nothing else.
My "How To" Guide
-----
Tools:
* Good set of professional quality SAE & Metric sockets + ratchets + socket extensions
* Screwdriver & Torx bits up to T-40-50
* Box cutter
* Shears
* Torque wrench
* Portable light (e.g. D-cell fluorescent lantern) - optional, but very helpful
Material Cost:
Second Skin Audio's Damplifier 80 sq ft - $187.20 (30 lbs) - Used to add mass to metal, and absorbs unwanted vibrations; the foil layer reflects unwanted sound
OverKill 36 sq ft - $43.13 (.468 lbs) - This is used to scatter the remaining vibrations that manages to pass through the Damplifier layer
Luxury Liner 36 sq ft $99.98 (I used ~27 sq ft = 27 lbs) - Used to absorb the last remaining vibrations that pass through the OverKill layer
Spray Adhesive 2 cans $23.94 - Used to attach Overkill & Luxury Liner
Panel Popper - $9.34 - Used to pull out pin-type retainers and trim
Wooden Hand Roller - $8.97 - Used to flatten Damplifier (saves your hands from cuts!)
Rags & Denatured Alcoh. $2.00 - Used to clean metal
How long:
* Over a period of a week, approximately ~30 hours total - cause I went slow & didn't know what I was doing!!
Don't expect to use your car while it's torn apart (of course)
Instructions I Used:
* Door Trim: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/door_trim.pdf
* Airbag safety: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/airbag_safety.pdf
* Front seat removal: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/seat_completer&r.pdf
* Floor console: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/console.pdf
* Rear Seat Cushion: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/rearseatr&r.pdf
* Rear Seat Backrest Removal: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2005-mustang-gt-tech/33285d1190025819-2005-mustang-convert-rear-seat-rear-seat-backrest.pdf
* Headliner: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/headliner.pdf
* Interior Trim http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/inttrim.pdf
How I did it ('07 Coupe) w/my very sweet & patient girlfriend's help:
1. I did both doors first; Taking off the door trim panels was straightforward - follow all the steps in http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/door_trim.pdf
- After taking off the trim panel, I removed the plastic sheet that covered the metal & wires. I used this as a template for the deadener layers;
- Expect to take hours on each door! Unfortunately it has lots of hills and valleys, so you'll end up cutting pieces to fit.
- I used Damplifier+Overkill+Luxury Liner in the doors - it didn't really fit! There was so much material that the trim panels barely had any
more room to attach back onto the doors. I managed to get it all on, but I don't recommend putting on Luxury Liner like I did. If I could do it over again, I'd use a double layer
of Damplifier & a layer of Overkill on it instead.
- Watch out for the valleys on the metal near the bottom of the door; there are two holes that looks like moisture/water drains, so I wouldn't
cover them or the pathways.
2. READ AND UNDERSTAND the Airbag Safety instructions: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/airbag_safety.pdf - then DISABLE the airbags!! (NOT OPTIONAL)
- Make sure you wait at LEAST a few minutes before attempting to remove your front seats.
- If you're not confident on this part or on removing your airbag-equipped seats, don't do it - leave it to a professional!
3. Remove the front seats: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/seat_completer&r.pdf & put them away into storage
4. Remove the floor console: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/console.pdf
- This is pretty straightforward too, just follow the steps.
- Getting the floor console finish panel & floor console off might be a bit tricky since it has to go around the parking brake; it helps to pull
the parking brake up as far as possible and take it slowly.
- If you have a stick, just remove the shift lever bezel (item #1) then twist/rotate the top off.
5. Remove the rear seat cushion http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/rearseatr&r.pdf - this was pretty easy; it just pops off when the 2 retaining tabs under the cushions are pushed back.
6. Remove the rear seat backrest: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2005-mustang-gt-tech/33285d1190025819-2005-mustang-convert-rear-seat-rear-seat-backrest.pdf
7. Remove the trim from the trunk
- Follow step 2 from http://www.classicdesignconcepts.com/tech_center/05-06_Mustang_sequential_taillight_kit%20TS.pdf to take off the rear panel
- Remove the base board
- Pop off the four tree-type retainers on the side trim pieces (two per side), and remove the side trim
- Remove the spare tire & accessories
8. Remove the interior trim: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/inttrim.pdf
[size=2]- The door scuff plate (item #2) just pulls off upwards; it's attached to the frame with some retaining clips & some adhe
My Results (yours will vary!):
* Rapping on the metal in most places made the car sound like a cheap tin can - sounds MUCH more solid now!
* The doors slam shut with an authoritative thump instead of giving off a cheap rattle
* Even the OEM Shaker 500 sounds GREAT now; highs and lows are much more sharper and clearer, and both bass and trebel sounds so much better - I don't think I need to change out the speakers or head unit
* A loud hailstorm outside? Noisy city streets? I couldn't hear the storm or ANYTHING else inside the car with the doors shut.
* I turned up the radio to a fairly loud setting, and I couldn't hear it outside of the car with the doors closed!
* It sounds as solid and noise-quiet as a luxury car now! If I had to estimate, I'd say it's 80% of the way to being "Lexus quiet"!!
* The ~2200rpm drone from my Magnaflow is gone ... and since I didn't deaden the metal above the muffler, I can still hear the sound of my muffler in the cabin when driving, and the sound of the motor. Other than that, almost nothing else.
My "How To" Guide
-----
Tools:
* Good set of professional quality SAE & Metric sockets + ratchets + socket extensions
* Screwdriver & Torx bits up to T-40-50
* Box cutter
* Shears
* Torque wrench
* Portable light (e.g. D-cell fluorescent lantern) - optional, but very helpful
Material Cost:
Second Skin Audio's Damplifier 80 sq ft - $187.20 (30 lbs) - Used to add mass to metal, and absorbs unwanted vibrations; the foil layer reflects unwanted sound
OverKill 36 sq ft - $43.13 (.468 lbs) - This is used to scatter the remaining vibrations that manages to pass through the Damplifier layer
Luxury Liner 36 sq ft $99.98 (I used ~27 sq ft = 27 lbs) - Used to absorb the last remaining vibrations that pass through the OverKill layer
Spray Adhesive 2 cans $23.94 - Used to attach Overkill & Luxury Liner
Panel Popper - $9.34 - Used to pull out pin-type retainers and trim
Wooden Hand Roller - $8.97 - Used to flatten Damplifier (saves your hands from cuts!)
Rags & Denatured Alcoh. $2.00 - Used to clean metal
How long:
* Over a period of a week, approximately ~30 hours total - cause I went slow & didn't know what I was doing!!
Don't expect to use your car while it's torn apart (of course)Instructions I Used:
* Door Trim: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/door_trim.pdf
* Airbag safety: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/airbag_safety.pdf
* Front seat removal: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/seat_completer&r.pdf
* Floor console: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/console.pdf
* Rear Seat Cushion: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/rearseatr&r.pdf
* Rear Seat Backrest Removal: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2005-mustang-gt-tech/33285d1190025819-2005-mustang-convert-rear-seat-rear-seat-backrest.pdf
* Headliner: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/headliner.pdf
* Interior Trim http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/inttrim.pdf
How I did it ('07 Coupe) w/my very sweet & patient girlfriend's help
:1. I did both doors first; Taking off the door trim panels was straightforward - follow all the steps in http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/door_trim.pdf
- After taking off the trim panel, I removed the plastic sheet that covered the metal & wires. I used this as a template for the deadener layers;
- Expect to take hours on each door! Unfortunately it has lots of hills and valleys, so you'll end up cutting pieces to fit.
- I used Damplifier+Overkill+Luxury Liner in the doors - it didn't really fit! There was so much material that the trim panels barely had any
more room to attach back onto the doors. I managed to get it all on, but I don't recommend putting on Luxury Liner like I did. If I could do it over again, I'd use a double layer
of Damplifier & a layer of Overkill on it instead.
- Watch out for the valleys on the metal near the bottom of the door; there are two holes that looks like moisture/water drains, so I wouldn't
cover them or the pathways.
2. READ AND UNDERSTAND the Airbag Safety instructions: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/airbag_safety.pdf - then DISABLE the airbags!! (NOT OPTIONAL)
- Make sure you wait at LEAST a few minutes before attempting to remove your front seats.
- If you're not confident on this part or on removing your airbag-equipped seats, don't do it - leave it to a professional!
3. Remove the front seats: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/seat_completer&r.pdf & put them away into storage
4. Remove the floor console: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/console.pdf
- This is pretty straightforward too, just follow the steps.
- Getting the floor console finish panel & floor console off might be a bit tricky since it has to go around the parking brake; it helps to pull
the parking brake up as far as possible and take it slowly.
- If you have a stick, just remove the shift lever bezel (item #1) then twist/rotate the top off.
5. Remove the rear seat cushion http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/rearseatr&r.pdf - this was pretty easy; it just pops off when the 2 retaining tabs under the cushions are pushed back.
6. Remove the rear seat backrest: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2005-mustang-gt-tech/33285d1190025819-2005-mustang-convert-rear-seat-rear-seat-backrest.pdf
7. Remove the trim from the trunk
- Follow step 2 from http://www.classicdesignconcepts.com/tech_center/05-06_Mustang_sequential_taillight_kit%20TS.pdf to take off the rear panel
- Remove the base board
- Pop off the four tree-type retainers on the side trim pieces (two per side), and remove the side trim
- Remove the spare tire & accessories
8. Remove the interior trim: http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/inttrim.pdf
[size=2]- The door scuff plate (item #2) just pulls off upwards; it's attached to the frame with some retaining clips & some adhe
10-19-2007, 05:46 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 458
RE: Wow! What a difference ... (Sound Deadening)
ORIGINAL: onederful100
[sm=groupwave.gif]
what a post. now that's detail. didnt read it all bc i got ADD, but i will ... later
[sm=groupwave.gif]
what a post. now that's detail. didnt read it all bc i got ADD, but i will ... later
10-19-2007, 05:52 PM
#5
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location:
Posts: 130
RE: Wow! What a difference ... (Sound Deadening)
Wow!! What a wealth of information! Great info!! To attach photos just (don't use fast reply) click on the bottom left hand corner where it says Click here to upload! and you have the option of Embed picture in post you can click on that. When you click on that it will say select a file to upload and you can click on browse...after that it will say choose file and a box that says LOOK IN...just look in your photos you have on your computer in My Photos or Desktop or wherever then click open for whatever you want to attach then click ok. I hope that helps.
10-19-2007, 08:59 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 243
RE: Wow! What a difference ... (Sound Deadening)
Yum ... cookies!!
It's not as complicated as it seems - it just takes alot of time and attention to detail. Before this the only things I could do was to change the oil and filter
It's not as complicated as it seems - it just takes alot of time and attention to detail. Before this the only things I could do was to change the oil and filter