magnido45

I only skimmed through this thread...but nobody mentioned removing the front rotor clips found attached to the lug bolts...you must remove them before installing any aftermarket wheel:

whosniffedme

So upon inspecting my brakes to the best of my ability, the caliper that's giving a creak when it gets got has some hot spots on the rotor. I can touch it with my bare hand after driving though, so I don't think it's stuck. Theoretically if it's a stuck caliper, when I apply the brakes the shaking should go away correct? Also, should I turn a slotted/drilled rotor?

Also, I see no harm in letting Discount Tire balance your wheels, not like they're tuning your car.

Waykooljr: I did notice these lines on the new tires, although since I've done some driving they've faded already. I always wondered what those were supposed to be.

Magnido: I have aftermaket rotors

jpplaw

Rotors could be warped, and certainly sounds like it if you can see hot spots.

Cruzinaround

I'm going to make a really simple suggestion...don't get offended. I concur with Magnido45.....Based on the experience I had after upgrading my brake rotors, calipers and pads along with new wheels for summer and winter use and appropriate tires for each seasonal rotation.....

I reinstalled the rotors and put the factory retainers back onto the wheel studs. I found that when I went from the Winter tires and wheel combo, which were OEM spec Leguna Seca wheels...to the Summer tire and wheel combo... that there was a little bit of wiggle/wobble that I just couldn't pinpoint.

The OEM style wheels actually have a recess around the back side of the stud holes that takes into account the retaining clip...therefore there will always be a flush fit when these wheels are installed.

However, the Forgestars don't have this recess. They are flat and therefore when they are installed with the retaining clip on the rotor...they actually will never install flush. Which was what was causing the ever so slight wiggle feeling in the steering.... Although on certain road conditions it was not as noticeable. But on a really smooth tarmac surface...I could feel it. And the electronic power steering was likely trying to nibble away at it which caused for the bit of erratic feel....only on the forgestars.

On a lift my father... examined the the difference in the wheels...and the fact that the clips were likely the cause of it.

The fix?

Remove the clips. They apparently are only installed at the factory while on the assembly line to keep the rotors in place as they are being conveyed down the plant. And with your wheels torqued into place...there is no need for them.

Once I removed these clips....the wiggle went away on the summer wheels.

Maybe this is not the case for you? But, its worth a look. Because if all else considered and you've done everything you have thus far.... its not unlikely to be something as simple and stupid as a simple retaining clip.

Just my 2 cents....

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Rudolph Hucker

sure it's not a tyre flat spot?
even a brand new tyre can develop this after a few weeks..mine shakes if left for a week..
these cars are very ancient design susspension and steering...unless everything is spot on they drive like crap..
all my 3 mustangs had a slight shimmy at 65mph..even my low milage 2010 has it very slightly..
as posted above if u have aftermarket wheels u have to remove the rotor retaining clip..
do u have the tpm system on the new wheels?
maybe thats come off it's band..that will realy throw your wheels off

whosniffedme

There are no retainer clips on my car, they're all aftermarket rotors and wheel studs. Also, even when my car had different wheels and was riding on OEM rotors it ran great, all this started happening about three or four months ago and varies between butter smooth and oh my god I'm pulling over bad. I noticed today that it is more noticeable when I'm steering my car to the left.

I got my car aligned before I got the new tires and wheels and the thing was on point but still shook so bad I couldn't drive it on the freeway, wheels were semi balanced too (one had a slight bend). That's when I decided I needed new wheels and tires, and here we are.

I've taken it to a shop a couple times and the guy insists that everything is straight under the car, and from what I can see I agree but something is clearly ****ed up. I'm going to try and find a legit mechanic tomorrow to get a balance and alignment check (even though I just had one), and also to have him check all the steering and brake components for failures.

Also before anyone says it, I replaced my axles in December so it's not that.

Cruzinaround

Then I'm going to suggest the only other thing that caused similar outcomes for me....

1. A universal joint on the drive shaft

Depending on the year of the car

2. Steering rack and/or pump

3. A motor mount

4. Transmission mount.



Just a few things that have caused steering issues for me on various cars.


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pascal

Steering wheel shake right?

Steering rack is the culprit...
Ford can't build a rack worth a damn past 30K miles it seems.
They won't break or get really worse but you'll have that shake at about 60mph.
My car does it, and so is most of the people I know with 05/09 cars.

whosniffedme

Well my power steering fluid is on point, I don't know if it's ever been flushed however as I haven't owned the car it's entire lifespan. When I get the thing on a lift tomorrow I'll check the motor mounts and transmission mounts. What can I do to check and see if it has something to do with the steering rack?

Also, if my pump was out wouldn't I just have no power steering? My old Mustang was like that I actually kind of liked it hahaha

jz78817

'k, wait. you have aftermarket rotors, studs, and wheels. how are the wheels centered? Are they hub centered (flat lug nuts) or stud centered (tapered lug nuts?) Do the wheels have spacers on your car?