no crank - anti-theft issue
03-18-2023, 07:08 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: missouri
Posts: 3
no crank - anti-theft issue
OKAY this is related to an 08 Mustang It all started where once in awhile it wouldn't recognize my key It would think I was trying to steal my own car. I Would try some of the options I found on the internet. And eventually, It would start. I think mostly because I just wait a while and it would time out. Anyway, lo and behold, it finally quit, and would not start no matter what I tried. I have searched the Internet, read every post I could find To no avail. So here's what has Transpired.. After reading everything, I tried to get a new key made, and the guy couldn't talk to the body control module. So I started reading post about that. Found out that there's a leak that drips on top of the bcm and when I pull the original out, it had some moisture on it. And I cleaned all the connectors and fixed the leak and did everything I was supposed to. so i put a new body control module in. And it still didn't work. Which I kind figured because I thought it would need to be flashed. So I loaded it up on the rollback, and I took it into Ford. Well, Ford calls me up and says, well, we can't flash it or dump the code until all the components work, and you need to rear tire sensors. We'll go ahead and get them and put them in. We did that. No good. They then suggested to get a transducer in two new keys. Try that. No good. Then they said, Well, you main computers must not be communicating. We need to replace it. So another $900, they replaced it. And. And guess what? It didnt work. So to my understanding, we pretty much have changed all the components in the theft circuit. So Monday I'm going to talk to the mechanic and listen to some song and dance, I'm sure. So I was trying to find out some information beforehand. I mean, really, if Ford can't flash and fix your damn car, what the hell is a man supposed to do? Any information or advise or someplace for me to look, would be greatly appreciated. My boy's missing his car and I'm tired of him driving my GT, I would love to give him his little 6 cylinder back. Hell, he's almost put as many miles on it in the last three weeks than I have since I owned it. Please help me get my GT back. Thanks In advance guys.
03-20-2023, 04:32 PM
#2
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
When you turn the key to the RUN position (not to START) after it's been sitting for a bit, do you hear the fuel pump turn on or, do you get nothing?
If you get nothing, then you have a bigger electrical issue. Either really corroded wires and/or broken wires. The fact it was gradual makes me think it is corrosion. If you had water in the BCM area, start there. The wires may appear ok but they may be corroded and/or broken within the plastic sheathing. I would start by checking the continuity of each wire from the connector end that connects to the BCM to some point further away.. Before testing continuity, disconnect the negative battery cable.
NOTE: The following info below is for troubleshooting reference only! It should only be attempted if the fuel pump can be heard turning on for a second or two when the key is inserted to the ignition and turned to the RUN position. These instructions do not not assume any type of skill or knowledge of the reader or anyone who chooses to attempt the method below. ATTEMPTING THIS METHOD IS AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you do not have a basic understanding of automotive electrical system, do not attempt! You may damage the starter of the vehicle, pop fuses, and/or cause other damage.
I have performed this method on several Ford vehicles including a 2002 and 2006 Ford Escape, and a 2008 Mustang GT.
Read everything first!
If the fuel pump does kick on, it could be the security/alarm module that sits under the passenger dash causing the issue. You can temporarily bypass this module to test this in the following way. This method also bypasses the ignition circuit START position and the neutral safety switch.
You will need:
A 2" to 2 1/2"piece of 16 gauge insulated copper wire. Solid core is preferred but stranded also works.
Wire strippers
Insulated Needle Nose Pliers
2008 Mustang Owners manual or diagram of the Fuse block in the engine compartment.
1) Make certain the vehicle is in PARK
2) Make certain the emergency brake is SET
3) Leave the battery connected.
4) Set the key to the "RUN" position (not the Start position that you have to hold the key in to start the car)..
5) Locate the Fuse/relay box under the hood on the passenger side of the engine bay between the strut tower and the radiator of the car.
6) Remove the cover and locate Mini-relay #22 per the user manual.. Do no remove the mini-relay just yet.
7) From the insulated copper wire, Remove approximately 1/4" of the insulation from each end of the wire.
8) Fold the wire into a "U" Shape.
9) Before removing the relay. Check its orientation and verify where Pins 30 and 87 are.
10) Remove the relay and double check the position of pins 30 and 87.
11) Adjust the wire shape so that the two exposed ends of the wire will fit into the slots of the fuse block where pins 30 and 87 from the relay formerly fit into.
a) The next step will engage the starter manually for as long as the wire makes the appropriate contact. You must use insulated needle nose pliers and you must remove the wire as soon as the engine has started or you could cause damage to the starter.
b) The wire may spark or temporarily get visibly hot, for this reason only make the connection for a second or two
12) Using the insulated needle nose pliers you will need to insert one end of the wire into pin slot 30 and the other end into pin slot 87. Touch only the insulated portions of insulated wire with the pliers. Do not use bare hands as you may get burned or get an electrical shock by high amperage.
13) It may take a few tries but when a solid connection is made between Pin slot 30 and 87, the starter will turn over and the engine should start. It should take no more than one or two seconds. Once the engine starts, IMMEDIATELY REMOVE THE WIRE! Leaving it connected will cause it to get red hot and possibly melt or catch fire. It may also damage the starter or cause other damage.
If this method works, it is highly likely the security module is faulty or that wires associated with the module are corroded/broken. I personally get to this point and go to the dealer to tell them. In all three situations with my vehicles mentioned above, it was the security module. However, it doesn't sound like your dealership is very competent. You could take it to an auto electric shop to further troubleshoot after you get this far. They should be able to figure it out from there.
If you get nothing, then you have a bigger electrical issue. Either really corroded wires and/or broken wires. The fact it was gradual makes me think it is corrosion. If you had water in the BCM area, start there. The wires may appear ok but they may be corroded and/or broken within the plastic sheathing. I would start by checking the continuity of each wire from the connector end that connects to the BCM to some point further away.. Before testing continuity, disconnect the negative battery cable.
NOTE: The following info below is for troubleshooting reference only! It should only be attempted if the fuel pump can be heard turning on for a second or two when the key is inserted to the ignition and turned to the RUN position. These instructions do not not assume any type of skill or knowledge of the reader or anyone who chooses to attempt the method below. ATTEMPTING THIS METHOD IS AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you do not have a basic understanding of automotive electrical system, do not attempt! You may damage the starter of the vehicle, pop fuses, and/or cause other damage.
I have performed this method on several Ford vehicles including a 2002 and 2006 Ford Escape, and a 2008 Mustang GT.
Read everything first!
If the fuel pump does kick on, it could be the security/alarm module that sits under the passenger dash causing the issue. You can temporarily bypass this module to test this in the following way. This method also bypasses the ignition circuit START position and the neutral safety switch.
You will need:
A 2" to 2 1/2"piece of 16 gauge insulated copper wire. Solid core is preferred but stranded also works.
Wire strippers
Insulated Needle Nose Pliers
2008 Mustang Owners manual or diagram of the Fuse block in the engine compartment.
1) Make certain the vehicle is in PARK
2) Make certain the emergency brake is SET
3) Leave the battery connected.
4) Set the key to the "RUN" position (not the Start position that you have to hold the key in to start the car)..
5) Locate the Fuse/relay box under the hood on the passenger side of the engine bay between the strut tower and the radiator of the car.
6) Remove the cover and locate Mini-relay #22 per the user manual.. Do no remove the mini-relay just yet.
7) From the insulated copper wire, Remove approximately 1/4" of the insulation from each end of the wire.
8) Fold the wire into a "U" Shape.
9) Before removing the relay. Check its orientation and verify where Pins 30 and 87 are.
10) Remove the relay and double check the position of pins 30 and 87.
11) Adjust the wire shape so that the two exposed ends of the wire will fit into the slots of the fuse block where pins 30 and 87 from the relay formerly fit into.
a) The next step will engage the starter manually for as long as the wire makes the appropriate contact. You must use insulated needle nose pliers and you must remove the wire as soon as the engine has started or you could cause damage to the starter.
b) The wire may spark or temporarily get visibly hot, for this reason only make the connection for a second or two
12) Using the insulated needle nose pliers you will need to insert one end of the wire into pin slot 30 and the other end into pin slot 87. Touch only the insulated portions of insulated wire with the pliers. Do not use bare hands as you may get burned or get an electrical shock by high amperage.
13) It may take a few tries but when a solid connection is made between Pin slot 30 and 87, the starter will turn over and the engine should start. It should take no more than one or two seconds. Once the engine starts, IMMEDIATELY REMOVE THE WIRE! Leaving it connected will cause it to get red hot and possibly melt or catch fire. It may also damage the starter or cause other damage.
If this method works, it is highly likely the security module is faulty or that wires associated with the module are corroded/broken. I personally get to this point and go to the dealer to tell them. In all three situations with my vehicles mentioned above, it was the security module. However, it doesn't sound like your dealership is very competent. You could take it to an auto electric shop to further troubleshoot after you get this far. They should be able to figure it out from there.
Last edited by Derf00; 03-27-2023 at 12:40 PM.
04-07-2023, 02:55 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: missouri
Posts: 3
Just for an update. Took the card a Ford to have it flashed and they had since had it for five weeks now. And are still trying to fix it. They say they're trying to find another BCM, where. I'm not quite understanding, because we put a new BCM in it, but apparently they don't trust it. And they've been looking for one for a while. They said they'd be in touch, but I did get a loaner car out of them, so it's not been all bad. I got my GT back, and the boy gets to drive a new fusion. OK. Well, I'll let you know when I find out for real what happened, or if we fix it. That's the only thing about these forums. I've been messing with this stuff for 40 years, and I just wish everybody would come back and say, Hey, this is what I did to fix it. I'll try to do that. Thank you guys and have a nice day
. Ken.
. Ken.
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