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Now restrictions on this is it cannot fill my trunk! i need my trunk for hauling stuff to college and back, so it has to be relatively small, but also in the size range of 10" to 12" either 1 in a box or 2, doesn't matter. The main reason for doing this is to see what other people can come up with, and i would like to increase my bass out put to more than just the Shaker 500. I am aware that my head unit does not have any RCA outlets, and that i can tap into the cables coming from the apms in the Shaker 500, for increased apms to the subs and aftermarket amp. I have a couple of things in mind, but would like to get other ideas before getting to rash on my decision. Thanks for any offers, or ideas that will further my decision.
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2005 v6 Premium Mustang
White Lemans Stripes - 12in
5 panel window louver - pre-painted
GT Style Black Mesh Grill w/ running chrome poney
18" chrome bullitt wheel staggered deep dish set
Pypes Violator exhaust w/ 4" tip polished
05-09 Raxiom Sequential Tail lights
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You can Build an Iso-baric Box to maximize the output of two 8 Inch subwoofers facing each other and in opposite phase to increase air output reflecting off a pair of 6 inch reflex cones opposite each subwoofer inside that box blasting forced air through a ported outlet on either end of the box below each reflex cone and resulting in a lot more bass response than a traditional 20 in Subwoofer. It should take up either the left of right side of the trunk and since the Bass frequency is a non-directional frequency it should be felt shaking the entire car not so much heard. Very effective. Slap on an efficient amplifier to the box and run the speakers wired for MONO.
That's what I would do as per my IASCA sound off competition days. Along with sound staging the interior better than what Ford has done.
But that's a project for when my Son finally asks "Hey dad? What are these IASCA trophy's in your office for?"
68' Blk&Silver Stang;351 Windsor + AOD + 3.15's
83' Canary Yellow Stang;351 Windsor + 100/150/200 selectable shot N2O+AOD+3.55's+MSD+Methyl injection
04' SRT 4..with a wicked blow off
12' Chevy Traverse LTZ Spouse's wheels...2012 BMW M3 ...Yup Hooptie: 93' Ford festiva 4sp manual
If you want it to actually sound good I would go with a new head unit, run a sub amp off the RCA's with the new head unit, and put the sub, a single 10 or 12 in a box behind the wheel well in the trunk. I have one on the passenger side, but I don't see a reason why you couldn't have one on the driver's side. I wouldn't do both though, I have heard of some subs cancelling each other out since they are facing each other.
Also the benefit of aftermarket is that you can get a nav system or other options that your car didn't come with.
Crutchfield.com I had the basic crap stero in my 06GT. Installed a new Pioneer head unit and speakers, no sub..and the difference is amazing. Stock crap is crap IMO. And you still get to keep your truck as a trunk.
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I'm not sure how close your shaker 500 is to my 2012, but here is what I did.
I removed the stock amp for the door 8" subs located on the drivers side panel to the left of the dash. I replaced this with a 200W Sony XM-4S. I am driving the amp using it's speaker level inputs with wires from the rear speakers. I installed the Shelby Kicker 8" subs in the doors to replace the factory subs.
I replaced the factory 6x8 speakers with Pioneers. This made a huge improvement in the sound. While it does not have the level of base that will make your ears bleed like a good set of subs, It has really good base and good clean mids and highs and I have the whole trunk free.
Shelby has a "canned" solution here: http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/kic-s.htm.
The sub Shelby uses in the trunk is fitted to the side, so it doesn't take up much room.
The bad thing about trunk subs in my experience, mine never sounded very good with the truck full. I had a removable sub in a previous Stang, sounded great, but I had to plan ahead and take it out before I needed to carry stuff.
2012 Mustang Premium 6 speed Manual
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Shelby door subs
Sony 200W amp
To my understanding it can give them more power, or at least a clearer signal which helps them sound better. the amp should add a percentage of power to whatever is input into it, so if .1 amp goes in normally and 1 amp comes out and the new stereo outputs .5 amps then in theory 5 amps should come out. I may mean volts instead of amps... but I don't remember that much about electronics.
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