icequeenfisher

We have a 2007 Ford Mustang GT/CS and are having serious issues, I was hoping someone could lend some thoughts! So about a week ago, we heard this really annoying squealing/whining noise...popped the hood, found the nose and replaced the idler pulley. The noise stopped. But then like 2 days later the car started sputtering and shut off while we were driving it. It sounds 'sick', literally. When you hit the gas it sounds like it's choking up...it's not getting enough gas or air or something. We have a hand held diagnostic machine, which said the alternator was bad. We bought a new one and replaced it. Didn't work. The diagnostic machine started throwing different codes as we are changing out censors and test driving the car. We replaced censor 1, then the machine says it's censor 4, we replace censor 4, then it says censor 2, etc. My question is...what the hell? Is my ECU bad? If so, can I get it reflashed or do I have to get a new ECU? Also, is there any way I can confirm this without buying one first or taking it to a garage? I've been screwed so many times at a garage I'm really leery to take it anywhere.

Nuke

A few questions:

1. Are you the original owners?
2. How many miles on the car?
3. Does the car have any mods?
4. When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?
5. When was the last time the air filter was replaced?
6. When was the last time the spark plugs were replaced?
7. When was the last time you ran a good fuel system cleaner thru the fuel system?
8. When was the last time the TB was cleaned?

The alternator in these S197's are a known chronic problem area which WILL cause some strange codes to be thrown. I'd have that replacement alternator and the battery load tested just in case you bought a defective rebuilt unit (happens too often). If not that, we need more info including knowing the status of the above items.

icequeenfisher

Thanks! Answer to your questions:
1. No, we bought the car in 2012 with 63k miles on it
2. 73k miles are on it now
3. Yes, jlt air intake and flowmaster outlaw exhaust and a computer tune
4. We've not replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs or ran a fuel system cleaner, although we had the spark plugs out and they look good
5. The air filters new

This is the first time we've had this problem with this car, it's run great since we've had it. The exact codes it's throwing are 0340-cam position sensor, 345, 349, 0022...all have to do with the cam. The other thing I forgot to mention is it only acts this way after it's warm and then here's a ticking noise.

SpartaPerformance

Could this be the dying alternator throwing cam sensor code problem??? Might want to look into that.

Nuke

The OP stated they replaced the alternator to no avail. But I recommended they have the new one plus the battery load tested anyway, considering the seemingly high percentage of rebuilt alternators not making the cut.

tx_zstang

yep. Most likely is the alternator...especially since the "codes" didn't start showing up until after the alternator was replaced.

808muscle

Cam position sensor code is famous for a bad alternator. Get the alternator and the battery load tested. You could have a bad one and yes it does happen more often then it should. Lots of people replace the battery when the replace the alterntor.