Just join the infamous engine tick club
08-08-2014, 02:31 PM
#11
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: florida
Posts: 133
08-08-2014, 03:35 PM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 2,952
08-08-2014, 04:33 PM
#13
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: florida
Posts: 133
.........because i dont drive much, i put about 6k miles per year. You suppose to change your oil every 12 month or recommanded oil change mile which ever come first. Its ignorant to say why not just stick to conventional oil or that 7.5k interval btw its 10k actually for 13's i believe.
Last edited by 13'GT Black; 08-08-2014 at 05:57 PM.
08-09-2014, 01:54 PM
#15
6th Gear Member
Conventional is good for about 3k-4k miles only. Blend about 7k (Ford says 7.5k). And full syn, I'm in the 10k miles group and have gone 12k with no concern. But there are those that are taking full syn to 15k and beyond.
08-09-2014, 05:35 PM
#17
check for a tsp. i read one where if you remove your ac belt and run the motor it may not make the ticking noise. tsb says to install a factory tensioner kit.
Removing the ac belt requires cutting it off. its a stretch belt and they suck.
as far as oil changes, Ford Motorcraft 5w 50 for me (track pack) every 5k miles.
oil changes are cheap insurance. id rather spend the money frequently changing my oil then spend the money on a new motor.
thats my point of view. I've taken so many engines apart and they are full of sludge buildup from people not changing their oil frequently enough
Removing the ac belt requires cutting it off. its a stretch belt and they suck.
as far as oil changes, Ford Motorcraft 5w 50 for me (track pack) every 5k miles.
oil changes are cheap insurance. id rather spend the money frequently changing my oil then spend the money on a new motor.
thats my point of view. I've taken so many engines apart and they are full of sludge buildup from people not changing their oil frequently enough
08-09-2014, 06:30 PM
#18
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: florida
Posts: 133
check for a tsp. i read one where if you remove your ac belt and run the motor it may not make the ticking noise. tsb says to install a factory tensioner kit.
Removing the ac belt requires cutting it off. its a stretch belt and they suck.
as far as oil changes, Ford Motorcraft 5w 50 for me (track pack) every 5k miles.
oil changes are cheap insurance. id rather spend the money frequently changing my oil then spend the money on a new motor.
thats my point of view. I've taken so many engines apart and they are full of sludge buildup from people not changing their oil frequently enough
Removing the ac belt requires cutting it off. its a stretch belt and they suck.
as far as oil changes, Ford Motorcraft 5w 50 for me (track pack) every 5k miles.
oil changes are cheap insurance. id rather spend the money frequently changing my oil then spend the money on a new motor.
thats my point of view. I've taken so many engines apart and they are full of sludge buildup from people not changing their oil frequently enough
btw i saw a new owner on utube got his tick fixed by dealer retorqing his cam, seems theres no direct cause of this tick. Everyone tick solution seems different.
I feel the same way about oil change but apparently PNYXPRESS think thats my problem lol.
Last edited by 13'GT Black; 08-09-2014 at 06:35 PM.
08-11-2014, 01:40 PM
#19
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 13
'13 GT here, MT82, Brembos, 3.73's. Still stock. 22k miles on it with no mechanical issues whatsoever, I broke it in easy for the first 1,000-1,500 miles but after that I pretty much let it warm up and then drive it hard every single time I get in the car. Valvetrain is a little loud when you pop the hood and listen to it idle, like pretty much all DOHC engines, but it sounds very consistent and exactly the same as it did brand new, no random loud ticking that stands out.
Can you tell exactly what part of the engine the ticking is coming from? It's important to note if it's coming from one particular cylinder bank, or from the face of the engine itself.
I had a previous 5.0 before my 2013 and it had a few problems. Very very loud & violent sounding vibration in the rear of the car above 100 mph, it made the entire rear window vibrate, the noise was much louder than stock exhaust or even most aftermarket axlebacks I've heard, and still to this day I suspect they forgot some sort of rubber seal behind the middle brake light on the trunk. I packed/taped foam rubber behind it, between the back of the light and the body, and also Styrofoam and it helped until about 120 mph and then it started vibrating again. Just a quality issue, the car was probably finished as a workday was letting out.
The car also ticked after a while, in my case it was a timing chain tensioner issue. That's mass production, I was really irritated about it at first but you have to understand, these things happen. It's important not to take it personally or anything. Most issues with these cars are very simple, and if you car runs/drives correctly & safely and has the same performance it did when you bought it, be patient and visit the service department, or even multiple Ford service departments, until the issue is resolved.
Can you tell exactly what part of the engine the ticking is coming from? It's important to note if it's coming from one particular cylinder bank, or from the face of the engine itself.
I had a previous 5.0 before my 2013 and it had a few problems. Very very loud & violent sounding vibration in the rear of the car above 100 mph, it made the entire rear window vibrate, the noise was much louder than stock exhaust or even most aftermarket axlebacks I've heard, and still to this day I suspect they forgot some sort of rubber seal behind the middle brake light on the trunk. I packed/taped foam rubber behind it, between the back of the light and the body, and also Styrofoam and it helped until about 120 mph and then it started vibrating again. Just a quality issue, the car was probably finished as a workday was letting out.
The car also ticked after a while, in my case it was a timing chain tensioner issue. That's mass production, I was really irritated about it at first but you have to understand, these things happen. It's important not to take it personally or anything. Most issues with these cars are very simple, and if you car runs/drives correctly & safely and has the same performance it did when you bought it, be patient and visit the service department, or even multiple Ford service departments, until the issue is resolved.
08-12-2014, 10:51 PM
#20
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: florida
Posts: 133
*update*
Just as i expected when i dropped it off at the dealer today, service manager told me everyrthing was fine and the tick is normal. He also mentioned i was not the only one, he has seen many 2011+ mustangs coming in with the tick.
Just as i expected when i dropped it off at the dealer today, service manager told me everyrthing was fine and the tick is normal. He also mentioned i was not the only one, he has seen many 2011+ mustangs coming in with the tick.
