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Old 08-12-2014, 10:21 PM   #11
DRock
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It is because of the damn CMCV things that are incorporated into our intake manifolds. Companies didnt want to spend the $$$$$ to redo a tune that already works for 1 year production car!
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:43 AM   #12
gmoran1469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRock View Post
It is because of the damn CMCV things that are incorporated into our intake manifolds. Companies didnt want to spend the $$$$$ to redo a tune that already works for 1 year production car!
Wait, what? Can you explain this further please.

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Originally Posted by gmoran1469 View Post
street car but plan on having it for a while and eventually trying to hit 650 rwhp at least
To add more to this, I plan on buying a S/C kit and running stock internals on low boost (7-9 psi). Then eventually swapping to forged internals and increasing boost to around 15+psi.
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Old 08-13-2014, 01:44 PM   #13
Derf00
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Originally Posted by gmoran1469 View Post
street car but plan on having it for a while and eventually trying to hit 650 rwhp at least
Best start out with fixing up that block to handle that type of HP. Stock block will get you to about 550HP at the flywheel, that's when little things like wrist pins and piston rods start banging about
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Originally Posted by LostBoyz View Post
if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
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Old 08-13-2014, 02:11 PM   #14
gmoran1469
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Best start out with fixing up that block to handle that type of HP. Stock block will get you to about 550HP at the flywheel, that's when little things like wrist pins and piston rods start banging about
Yeah, see the post above. Planning on low boost until I build the engine.
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Old 08-13-2014, 03:57 PM   #15
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street car but plan on having it for a while and eventually trying to hit 650 rwhp at least
I made it to the 650 rwhp mark, but it wasn't easy or cheap. Sometimes I think I should have just got a used GT500, and modded it instead. There were lots of extra costs in order to do it right.
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:39 PM   #16
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I do not get heat soak with my KB under normal driving. I do have a rather large tank for my intercooler water, but even before that it was fine. The big tank was to take care of heat soak at the track.

If the centri blowers use air to air intercoolers which will help with the heat soak. For daily driving or brief spirited runs, you won't notice heat soak.

My overall impression from everyone who have put blowers on their cars is that people tend to be overly happy with the twin screw blowers, even more so than the roots type. But to each their own. All of the OEMs seems to use PD blowers. But IDK...

Do your research. Look around at different set ups of people who have achieved the goals you are thinking about and follow a path that has already been taken. It will be much cheaper and less of a headache.

My engine is almost entirely stock functionally. I do have aftermarket valves and valve springs, but they do not create extra power. The internals are built, blue printed balanced etc. I make 540 rwhp that is driven in all types of dry weather. I run on pump gas and I do not have to tinker with it all that much. Mostly it's just regular maintenance.

Try and do the install yourself. You will thank me later when you need to fix something and understand where everything is and how it works.

Best of luck and keep us posted!!!
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Old 08-19-2014, 02:03 PM   #17
Derf00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRock View Post
It is because of the damn CMCV things that are incorporated into our intake manifolds. Companies didnt want to spend the $$$$$ to redo a tune that already works for 1 year production car!
Not sure I understand...all 05-10 mustangs have these. They are an intermediate plate that sits between the intake manifold and the Intake of the head.

Did they incorporate the valves into the actual intake manifold in 2009 (like one piece and not able to remove/replace them without replacing the entire intake)?? That would seem kinda stupid considering the intake is plastic and the valves are metal.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBoyz View Post
if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
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Old 08-19-2014, 03:06 PM   #18
gmoran1469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derf00 View Post
Not sure I understand...all 05-10 mustangs have these. They are an intermediate plate that sits between the intake manifold and the Intake of the head.

Did they incorporate the valves into the actual intake manifold in 2009 (like one piece and not able to remove/replace them without replacing the entire intake)?? That would seem kinda stupid considering the intake is plastic and the valves are metal.
Hrmm... Ya know I've taken off my manifold and I can't remember for the life of me for certain but I want to say YES, they are incorporated. I vividly remember removing butterflys attached to a rod to clean them from all the oil gunk that had built up but I don't remember pulling them off the block but rather the intake manifold.
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14" Front/Rear Brakes, Koni STR.T, Eibach Sportline Springs, Steeda HD C/C mounts, Fays2 Watt's Link, UMI 1049 Front-end Links, Steeda Billet LCA-roto/urethane, BMR LCA Reloc. Brackets, Steeda Adj. UCA, Steeda 3rd-link rotobush, SS Brake lines/DOT4, synthetic fluid swap, Stack Racing front strut brace, Roush CAI, Brenspeed 93oct tune street/track, Steeda Ultra-lite 18x9.5, Hawk HPS brake pads, A49 brake ducting
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Old 08-19-2014, 03:22 PM   #19
Derf00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmoran1469 View Post
Hrmm... Ya know I've taken off my manifold and I can't remember for the life of me for certain but I want to say YES, they are incorporated. I vividly remember removing butterflys attached to a rod to clean them from all the oil gunk that had built up but I don't remember pulling them off the block but rather the intake manifold.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...on-plates.html

Yup, you're right. Look at the 'Note' about 2009+. Hmm, learn something new everyday.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBoyz View Post
if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
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Old 08-19-2014, 03:22 PM
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