moosestang

I think I figured it out, with the help of google. I drove 200 yards down the road at 40mph and lightly used the brakes 3 times. the brakes were hot, but the rear rotors looks much worse than the fronts. After googling rear brakes dragging, someone mentioned lining up the notches in the rear caliper piston with the nubby on the brake pad. I did not do that! So even when the brakes were releasing, it was still putting pressure on the rotors. I didn't even notice that little nub on the rear pads and I was able to get the piston compressed far enough and slip it over that thing.

I didn't have time to fix it today or rather I didn't feel like messing with the damn thing anymore, so i'll update this post tomorrow.

here's a video of the fronts. I bled them again and they seem better after that and the 200 yard drive.

AzPete

With all this brake work, it might be good to replace the fluid also if you have not done so recently.

6-Speed

Here's a write-up that might help. I understand that removing the brake fluid reservoir cap makes it easier to turn the rear piston. I'll have to try that next time.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...ear-Brake-Pads

moosestang

I replaced all the fluid twice now. I always remove the cap when compressing the caliper pistons.

The motive power bleeder makes replacing the fluid a snap.

Norm Peterson

Just connect a hose to the bleed fitting and crack the fitting slightly (less than 1/2 turn should be enough). That will eliminate all of the resistance to the "backward" flow of brake fluid, not just the resistance due to compressing the air above the fluid in the M/C reservoir.

Use clear hose so you can see the color of your brake fluid as it leaves the caliper. Compare it to what fresh fluid looks like.


Moose - when you pull the rear brakes apart to align the caliper pistons, check the inboard pads for taper wear that is not present in the outboard pads. If there's too much taper, just normally using the brakes will try to make the piston go crooked in its bore. It's probably best to not attempt to correct a taper, especially one that extends to within the area opposite the piston.


Norm

moosestang

Fixed! That was the whole problem. I can spin the rear wheels easily again. I put a tiny bit of energy suspension grease on the front pad ears and the front spins 3 times better now. I can move the whole car with my torque wrench on a rear lug nut!

One of the rear pads had the tiniest taper to it towards the inside, as expected, but most of the pad surface was still flat.