2007CalSpec

I would open each one up and check for broken teeth. They may run fine hooked up to a battery and there's no load or torque on them but may click when reinstalled.

Derf00

I Never did post my source, sorry. Here it is.

It's from justanswer but it's from the Ford Workshop manual:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ke...035508_act.pdf

6-Speed

Is the Smart Junction Box the same as the passenger compartment fuse panel?

Derf00

Yep, the one that's in the passenger side kick panel.

leerodgers1

I changed out the blend door actuator and the clicking stopped for 2 days and then started back but different. Clicks 6 - 10- times and stops and then starts again for 5 or 6 times. I read after this that it needed to be calibrated. I did that last night but it didn't help. Did I screw up the new acuator and need to get another?

steven566

Hello,

I'm new to this forum and I appreciate all of the great info here!

I have a 2009 GT Convertible that has some sort of actuator door problem as described by the others above. My issue is that it doesn't click anymore, and I didn't identify which actuator was the issue in time.

These are the symptoms:

1) The a/c system is working, but cold air is not making it out of the vents. This is the main problem.
2) I can adjust the temperature from hot to cold, though cold isn't cold. It seems as cold as the temperature would get without a/c to cool it down. I'm in Arizona, so even during the winter, the car gets pretty warm while sitting outside at work.
3) I can switch between the various positions with no issues (floor, vent, combined, etc. I rarely use defrost, but I believe that is working, as well.)

Another thing that may help is:

What used to happen is that the a/c would run (compressor on, lines cooling, etc.) but the air coming out of the vent was warm. Then, when I shut the car off and began to investigate the engine, and then turned the car back on, the a/c would then be blowing cold.

I'm thinking this must be due to the homing routine that the vent doors go through when the car is started. This procedure doesn't work anymore, which is probably why I don't hear the clicking noise anymore.

I'm still don't know which actuator controls the door to the a/c evaporator. Is it that the hot cold blend door is not making its full travel and staying biased toward the warm side, or is there a door just for the path that blows air part the evaporator. Or something else?

Is this enough info for someone to identify which actuator is broken and what part number I should get?

Thanks for the help!

Steve

roadpilot

How many? Depends on if you have a single zone or dual zone HVAC.

1 - Inlet
1 - panel/defrost/floor
1 - blend temp
1 - 2nd blend temp if you have a DZ HVAC

techdawgy

There are actually 4 actuators:
[SIZE=6pt][SIZE=2pt]Mode Door Actuator - Air Inlet Door[/SIZE]
[/SIZE][SIZE=6pt][SIZE=6pt][SIZE=2pt]Mode Door Actuator - Defrost Door[/SIZE]
[/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=6pt][SIZE=2pt]Mode Door Actuator - Panel,Floor Door[/SIZE]
[/SIZE][SIZE=6pt][SIZE=2pt]Temperature Blend Door Actuator[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2pt]
I just did 2 of these, and yes, the top screw on the defrost door actuator is a major PITA!
[/SIZE][/SIZE]

techdawgy

There are actually 4 actuators:
[SIZE=2pt] Air Inlet Door Actuator,
Defrost Door Actuator,
Panel/Floor Door Actuator,
Temperature Blend Door Actuator
(Was trying to put links in last post, came out garbled... but links work) lol
[/SIZE][SIZE=6pt][SIZE=2pt][/SIZE][/SIZE]