torque socket wrench vs regular socket wrench.
#41
Not everything is made in China. Snapon is still USA, Klein...I think SK is as well. But you pay top dollar.
Sometimes though you get the old bait and switch. Weathertech is that company that makes the laser measured floor liners. I bought a set of window wind deflectors for my pickup from them thinking they were made in the good ol' USofA. Imagine my surprise when the box was clearly marked "Made in Germany". I almost returned them over that just on principle. But I let it go and installed them anyway.
Sometimes though you get the old bait and switch. Weathertech is that company that makes the laser measured floor liners. I bought a set of window wind deflectors for my pickup from them thinking they were made in the good ol' USofA. Imagine my surprise when the box was clearly marked "Made in Germany". I almost returned them over that just on principle. But I let it go and installed them anyway.
#42
on a side note the stock panhard bar that i removed makes a weird noise, it feels like there's some sands or loose metal inside it. if you were to put a little bit of sand in a pipe and turn it from my end to the other, that's what is sounds like.
#43
It's exceptionally unlikely that your brand new torque wrenches have failed, especially two in a row...You can have them inspected at a Sears, though. They wont calibrate them but they will test them and let you know if they are within the factory tolerances. It mentions this in the instructions you read. When they are verified, you'll be able to figure out if it's your method or the tools. You may want to call ahead to make sure that the particular Craftsman dealer near you can do this verification; I've never seen one that won't do it, but that doesn't mean anything.
You stating that you remember how much torque it took to remove a fastener is totaly irrelevant to your wrenches working or not working. Even if it were possible for you to guesstimate what it took to remove a factory part, the torque value may or may not be the same as what is called for on your aftermarket part. Did you use your torque wrench to remove the stock fasteners? If so, you shouldn't use a torque wrench as a standard ratchet and especially for breaking torque; if not, was the tool you removed the (stock) fasteners with the same length as your torque wrenches? If the arm is different, the moment will be different, even if the weight is the same so it'll make it feel different for the same amount of torque. Previously tightened fasteners will very often require more torque to break loose than a nice clean factory fastener. All of this coupled with your body not being a tool calibrated near close enough to "remember," the removal torque means that just because it feels wrong to you doesn't make that the case.
You stating that you remember how much torque it took to remove a fastener is totaly irrelevant to your wrenches working or not working. Even if it were possible for you to guesstimate what it took to remove a factory part, the torque value may or may not be the same as what is called for on your aftermarket part. Did you use your torque wrench to remove the stock fasteners? If so, you shouldn't use a torque wrench as a standard ratchet and especially for breaking torque; if not, was the tool you removed the (stock) fasteners with the same length as your torque wrenches? If the arm is different, the moment will be different, even if the weight is the same so it'll make it feel different for the same amount of torque. Previously tightened fasteners will very often require more torque to break loose than a nice clean factory fastener. All of this coupled with your body not being a tool calibrated near close enough to "remember," the removal torque means that just because it feels wrong to you doesn't make that the case.
#44
It's exceptionally unlikely that your brand new torque wrenches have failed, especially two in a row...You can have them inspected at a Sears, though. They wont calibrate them but they will test them and let you know if they are within the factory tolerances. It mentions this in the instructions you read. When they are verified, you'll be able to figure out if it's your method or the tools. You may want to call ahead to make sure that the particular Craftsman dealer near you can do this verification; I've never seen one that won't do it, but that doesn't mean anything.
You stating that you remember how much torque it took to remove a fastener is totaly irrelevant to your wrenches working or not working. Even if it were possible for you to guesstimate what it took to remove a factory part, the torque value may or may not be the same as what is called for on your aftermarket part. Did you use your torque wrench to remove the stock fasteners? If so, you shouldn't use a torque wrench as a standard ratchet and especially for breaking torque; if not, was the tool you removed the (stock) fasteners with the same length as your torque wrenches? If the arm is different, the moment will be different, even if the weight is the same so it'll make it feel different for the same amount of torque. Previously tightened fasteners will very often require more torque to break loose than a nice clean factory fastener. All of this coupled with your body not being a tool calibrated near close enough to "remember," the removal torque means that just because it feels wrong to you doesn't make that the case.
You stating that you remember how much torque it took to remove a fastener is totaly irrelevant to your wrenches working or not working. Even if it were possible for you to guesstimate what it took to remove a factory part, the torque value may or may not be the same as what is called for on your aftermarket part. Did you use your torque wrench to remove the stock fasteners? If so, you shouldn't use a torque wrench as a standard ratchet and especially for breaking torque; if not, was the tool you removed the (stock) fasteners with the same length as your torque wrenches? If the arm is different, the moment will be different, even if the weight is the same so it'll make it feel different for the same amount of torque. Previously tightened fasteners will very often require more torque to break loose than a nice clean factory fastener. All of this coupled with your body not being a tool calibrated near close enough to "remember," the removal torque means that just because it feels wrong to you doesn't make that the case.
#46
Norm
#47
thanks for clearing that up brother. by the way i was able to re center the axle and i notice that the car is a little bit more planted to the ground on launch.
#48
I bought them for our '01 Mercury back in 2002 and knew they were made in Germany and they have the machined lip that goes in channel, I really like them!
#49
I thought about buying a set for my wife's vert as a joke, but that would be an expensive joke! lol
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