How important is it to warm engine before spark plug change?
02-20-2015, 11:01 AM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
How important is it to warm engine before spark plug change?
I ordered spark plugs and am hoping to start on the process of changing out my plugs sometime soon.
I've read a couple how-tos that recommend starting with a warm engine before you crack the plugs, put in the carb cleaner etc.
Problem is, my car hasn't been started since end of November and it's gonna be awhile before I can get it out of the garage.
Will it make that much of a difference to do it on a cold engine?
BTW my car has just under 80K on it.
I've read a couple how-tos that recommend starting with a warm engine before you crack the plugs, put in the carb cleaner etc.
Problem is, my car hasn't been started since end of November and it's gonna be awhile before I can get it out of the garage.
Will it make that much of a difference to do it on a cold engine?
BTW my car has just under 80K on it.
02-20-2015, 11:43 AM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: AR
Posts: 236
The warmed engine has expanded the metals and helped to loosen the carbon deposits. I think before the change your susposed to fuel sys cleaner like B-12, seafoam, etc. you won't get that either if you do it now
I'd wait until you can get it out and warm it up or just plan on a lot of breaks and extract them as they break. Since you aren't driving it you can spend the time extracting them.
I'd wait until you can get it out and warm it up or just plan on a lot of breaks and extract them as they break. Since you aren't driving it you can spend the time extracting them.
02-20-2015, 11:59 AM
#5
This is an ordeal. I have done it three times on a 4.6 (ranging from 60k-85k miles) and it is an annoying experience. Some people are able to get them out no problem but it is not very common. Everyone has their own "way" to do it. I suggest reading the TSB on the issue.
Just from my experience I have had the best of luck as follows.
Use seafoam "Deep Creep" This I would not change as nothing really compares to it.
I suggest getting the engine to operating temperature and spraying Deep Creep into each well until there is a small puddle. let it sit for a couple hours until the engine is completely cool. After it is cool, start the engine and let it get warm, but not hot. Grab a torgue wrench set to 35-40 ftlbs. Try to just crack them 1/8 turn. Do Not exceed the 40 ftlbs. The plugs break right around 40. If they don't move at 40 then go through a few more warm cool cycles and make sure a puddle of Deep Creep stays in the well. After you get them to spin 1/8 of a turn. Let them sit again (you are letting the Deep Creep Desolve the carbon build up that causes all the issues. After they have sat, just remove them gently and slowly, sometimes working them in and out helps. They will make a terrible screeching sound as they come out. This is normal.
I have also had luck using an electric impact on its lowest setting (after they have sat in Deep Creep)
I would also recommend getting a lisle 65600 tool (or borrowing) for if you break one (likely). The tool comes with clear instructions and how to use it and it is $60. If you don't use it then great, return it. If you do need it you will be glad you have it.
Put one piece plugs back in and give them a generous coating of anti seize.
Just from my experience I have had the best of luck as follows.
Use seafoam "Deep Creep" This I would not change as nothing really compares to it.
I suggest getting the engine to operating temperature and spraying Deep Creep into each well until there is a small puddle. let it sit for a couple hours until the engine is completely cool. After it is cool, start the engine and let it get warm, but not hot. Grab a torgue wrench set to 35-40 ftlbs. Try to just crack them 1/8 turn. Do Not exceed the 40 ftlbs. The plugs break right around 40. If they don't move at 40 then go through a few more warm cool cycles and make sure a puddle of Deep Creep stays in the well. After you get them to spin 1/8 of a turn. Let them sit again (you are letting the Deep Creep Desolve the carbon build up that causes all the issues. After they have sat, just remove them gently and slowly, sometimes working them in and out helps. They will make a terrible screeching sound as they come out. This is normal.
I have also had luck using an electric impact on its lowest setting (after they have sat in Deep Creep)
I would also recommend getting a lisle 65600 tool (or borrowing) for if you break one (likely). The tool comes with clear instructions and how to use it and it is $60. If you don't use it then great, return it. If you do need it you will be glad you have it.
Put one piece plugs back in and give them a generous coating of anti seize.
02-20-2015, 12:16 PM
#6
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,319
This is an ordeal. I have done it three times on a 4.6 (ranging from 60k-85k miles) and it is an annoying experience. Some people are able to get them out no problem but it is not very common. Everyone has their own "way" to do it. I suggest reading the TSB on the issue.
Just from my experience I have had the best of luck as follows.
Use seafoam "Deep Creep" This I would not change as nothing really compares to it.
I suggest getting the engine to operating temperature and spraying Deep Creep into each well until there is a small puddle. let it sit for a couple hours until the engine is completely cool. After it is cool, start the engine and let it get warm, but not hot. Grab a torgue wrench set to 35-40 ftlbs. Try to just crack them 1/8 turn. Do Not exceed the 40 ftlbs. The plugs break right around 40. If they don't move at 40 then go through a few more warm cool cycles and make sure a puddle of Deep Creep stays in the well. After you get them to spin 1/8 of a turn. Let them sit again (you are letting the Deep Creep Desolve the carbon build up that causes all the issues. After they have sat, just remove them gently and slowly, sometimes working them in and out helps. They will make a terrible screeching sound as they come out. This is normal.
I have also had luck using an electric impact on its lowest setting (after they have sat in Deep Creep)
I would also recommend getting a lisle 65600 tool (or borrowing) for if you break one (likely). The tool comes with clear instructions and how to use it and it is $60. If you don't use it then great, return it. If you do need it you will be glad you have it.
Put one piece plugs back in and give them a generous coating of anti seize.
Just from my experience I have had the best of luck as follows.
Use seafoam "Deep Creep" This I would not change as nothing really compares to it.
I suggest getting the engine to operating temperature and spraying Deep Creep into each well until there is a small puddle. let it sit for a couple hours until the engine is completely cool. After it is cool, start the engine and let it get warm, but not hot. Grab a torgue wrench set to 35-40 ftlbs. Try to just crack them 1/8 turn. Do Not exceed the 40 ftlbs. The plugs break right around 40. If they don't move at 40 then go through a few more warm cool cycles and make sure a puddle of Deep Creep stays in the well. After you get them to spin 1/8 of a turn. Let them sit again (you are letting the Deep Creep Desolve the carbon build up that causes all the issues. After they have sat, just remove them gently and slowly, sometimes working them in and out helps. They will make a terrible screeching sound as they come out. This is normal.
I have also had luck using an electric impact on its lowest setting (after they have sat in Deep Creep)
I would also recommend getting a lisle 65600 tool (or borrowing) for if you break one (likely). The tool comes with clear instructions and how to use it and it is $60. If you don't use it then great, return it. If you do need it you will be glad you have it.
Put one piece plugs back in and give them a generous coating of anti seize.
Put the anti-seize only on the smooth barrel at the bottom of the plug, not on the threads. Be very careful not to get any anti-seize on the firing end of the plug, this will short out the plug and cause a miss.
02-20-2015, 12:16 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
I just saw a video on youtube of a guy who did the job on a hot engine and zipped them right out with an impact wrench. Interesting...
I do have one piece plugs (e3's, have heard mixed reviews but the price was right, I'll try em out), got some carb cleaner, have not seen this deep creep? Is it an aerosol?
Guess I might have to run the car in the garage some. I'd really rather work on it now than try to do it when the weather is nice and I'm wanting to drive the car.
I'll order the tool if I need it, I'm not in any hurry.
I do have one piece plugs (e3's, have heard mixed reviews but the price was right, I'll try em out), got some carb cleaner, have not seen this deep creep? Is it an aerosol?
Guess I might have to run the car in the garage some. I'd really rather work on it now than try to do it when the weather is nice and I'm wanting to drive the car.
I'll order the tool if I need it, I'm not in any hurry.
02-23-2015, 06:40 PM
#9
I did mine on a cold engine. broke 2 of 8 (the OEM plugs) at 82k miles. Used the lisle tool.. that thing is a godsend! But make sure you have a vise or strong hands to get the plug off the end of the tool...
I used PB Blaster to break it up, and personally I think I broke the plugs losing my patience. However, after the plugs were changed and used the antiseize.... they came out like a hot knife through butter when I put the whipple on
I used PB Blaster to break it up, and personally I think I broke the plugs losing my patience. However, after the plugs were changed and used the antiseize.... they came out like a hot knife through butter when I put the whipple on
02-24-2015, 01:10 PM
#10
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
I did mine on a cold engine. broke 2 of 8 (the OEM plugs) at 82k miles. Used the lisle tool.. that thing is a godsend! But make sure you have a vise or strong hands to get the plug off the end of the tool...
I used PB Blaster to break it up, and personally I think I broke the plugs losing my patience. However, after the plugs were changed and used the antiseize.... they came out like a hot knife through butter when I put the whipple on
I used PB Blaster to break it up, and personally I think I broke the plugs losing my patience. However, after the plugs were changed and used the antiseize.... they came out like a hot knife through butter when I put the whipple on
