How important is it to warm engine before spark plug change?
02-24-2015, 02:59 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 1,440
I posted my experience some time back with having completed plug changes in 4 cars at running temp..using Deep Creep and getting them all to break loose at no more then 30 lbs. and never breaking a plug. I had good info from a mechanic who has changed countless of the "BASTARD" plugs in various vehicles and says he has never broken one due to the operating temp procedure..I believe him..
02-24-2015, 03:09 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
I tried to start working on this Sunday and the plugs wouldn't even budge at 35 ft-lbs (probably didn't help that it was around 30 degrees outside).
I'm gonna start it and run it either tonight or tomorrow, crack the plugs and put some Kroil in around them, people have said Kroil and PB Blaster both work pretty good.
I'm gonna start it and run it either tonight or tomorrow, crack the plugs and put some Kroil in around them, people have said Kroil and PB Blaster both work pretty good.
02-25-2015, 01:10 PM
#13
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Yeah that's a bit cold. Metal expands and contracts as the temps go up and down.
Start the car, let it get to operating temp, then let it cool down for about 5-10 minutes, then work on the plugs. Aluminum heads have a different expansion rate than steel plugs.
Start the car, let it get to operating temp, then let it cool down for about 5-10 minutes, then work on the plugs. Aluminum heads have a different expansion rate than steel plugs.
03-01-2015, 12:41 PM
#15
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location:
Posts: 906
This is an ordeal. I have done it three times on a 4.6 (ranging from 60k-85k miles) and it is an annoying experience. Some people are able to get them out no problem but it is not very common. Everyone has their own "way" to do it. I suggest reading the TSB on the issue.
Just from my experience I have had the best of luck as follows.
Use seafoam "Deep Creep" This I would not change as nothing really compares to it.
I suggest getting the engine to operating temperature and spraying Deep Creep into each well until there is a small puddle. let it sit for a couple hours until the engine is completely cool. After it is cool, start the engine and let it get warm, but not hot. Grab a torgue wrench set to 35-40 ftlbs. Try to just crack them 1/8 turn. Do Not exceed the 40 ftlbs. The plugs break right around 40. If they don't move at 40 then go through a few more warm cool cycles and make sure a puddle of Deep Creep stays in the well. After you get them to spin 1/8 of a turn. Let them sit again (you are letting the Deep Creep Desolve the carbon build up that causes all the issues. After they have sat, just remove them gently and slowly, sometimes working them in and out helps. They will make a terrible screeching sound as they come out. This is normal.
I have also had luck using an electric impact on its lowest setting (after they have sat in Deep Creep)
I would also recommend getting a lisle 65600 tool (or borrowing) for if you break one (likely). The tool comes with clear instructions and how to use it and it is $60. If you don't use it then great, return it. If you do need it you will be glad you have it.
Put one piece plugs back in and give them a generous coating of anti seize.
Just from my experience I have had the best of luck as follows.
Use seafoam "Deep Creep" This I would not change as nothing really compares to it.
I suggest getting the engine to operating temperature and spraying Deep Creep into each well until there is a small puddle. let it sit for a couple hours until the engine is completely cool. After it is cool, start the engine and let it get warm, but not hot. Grab a torgue wrench set to 35-40 ftlbs. Try to just crack them 1/8 turn. Do Not exceed the 40 ftlbs. The plugs break right around 40. If they don't move at 40 then go through a few more warm cool cycles and make sure a puddle of Deep Creep stays in the well. After you get them to spin 1/8 of a turn. Let them sit again (you are letting the Deep Creep Desolve the carbon build up that causes all the issues. After they have sat, just remove them gently and slowly, sometimes working them in and out helps. They will make a terrible screeching sound as they come out. This is normal.
I have also had luck using an electric impact on its lowest setting (after they have sat in Deep Creep)
I would also recommend getting a lisle 65600 tool (or borrowing) for if you break one (likely). The tool comes with clear instructions and how to use it and it is $60. If you don't use it then great, return it. If you do need it you will be glad you have it.
Put one piece plugs back in and give them a generous coating of anti seize.
also the plugs closest to the cabin are going to be locked in the tightest.
03-01-2015, 04:39 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
I got 2 plugs out whole and already had one where the hex spun off the plug body and left the rest stuck in there 
I had to just snap it off with pliers and order the tool, there was nothing else I could do.
All the rest SEEM to be moving but several are very tight. It's supposed to warm up to 50-ish this week and I'm hoping that might expand the aluminum enough for me to spin the rest out, we'll see.
I had to just snap it off with pliers and order the tool, there was nothing else I could do.All the rest SEEM to be moving but several are very tight. It's supposed to warm up to 50-ish this week and I'm hoping that might expand the aluminum enough for me to spin the rest out, we'll see.
03-02-2015, 11:32 AM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
So, here's an update-
I went out last night and decided I wanted to get these plugs done. Two were still pretty tight.
I was able to spin all the rest out, 100% intact, with a 3/8" drive ratchet. One of them creaked and squeaked the whole way out but it came out. Also one of them (the first one I removed) had the hex spinning loose on the plug body but it did all come out together.
I will say that PB Blaster and/or Kroil definitely do work in there and help loosen everything up and they do a nice job of dissolving carbon. I saw the Deep Creep was $11 a can, I don't think you need it unless you have high mileage.
I did, however, have to order the Lisle tool for the one the hex spun off of. I don't think anything would have helped that one as I'm pretty sure it did not loosen even on the initial cracking of the plugs when the engine was warm (given by the way the hex just came off, at least).
My car has 80K on it BTW. I did not run any fuel treatments prior to putting the car in storage, I ran the car for 10 minutes before I cracked the plugs loose, and it's been COLD here. Was only around 35 last night. I think it would be even easier in warmer temps where the aluminum expanded a little more.
I have one piece E3 plugs waiting to go in. I couldn't pass up the price on them, and I've heard mixed reviews. I guess we'll see how they work, at least if I have to swap them out removal will be easier.
I went out last night and decided I wanted to get these plugs done. Two were still pretty tight.
I was able to spin all the rest out, 100% intact, with a 3/8" drive ratchet. One of them creaked and squeaked the whole way out but it came out. Also one of them (the first one I removed) had the hex spinning loose on the plug body but it did all come out together.
I will say that PB Blaster and/or Kroil definitely do work in there and help loosen everything up and they do a nice job of dissolving carbon. I saw the Deep Creep was $11 a can, I don't think you need it unless you have high mileage.
I did, however, have to order the Lisle tool for the one the hex spun off of. I don't think anything would have helped that one as I'm pretty sure it did not loosen even on the initial cracking of the plugs when the engine was warm (given by the way the hex just came off, at least).
My car has 80K on it BTW. I did not run any fuel treatments prior to putting the car in storage, I ran the car for 10 minutes before I cracked the plugs loose, and it's been COLD here. Was only around 35 last night. I think it would be even easier in warmer temps where the aluminum expanded a little more.
I have one piece E3 plugs waiting to go in. I couldn't pass up the price on them, and I've heard mixed reviews. I guess we'll see how they work, at least if I have to swap them out removal will be easier.
03-03-2015, 09:48 AM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 3,115
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ShaneB26154
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
35
03-04-2021 04:05 AM
