raredesign

It is looking to be a reality this summer if all goes right, so I am considering a single turbo from Turbo Horsepower.
http://www.turbohorsepower.com/3vgtprice.html

I am too new to turbos to properly account for the budget. Any help is appreciated.

3V Mustang GT Single Turbo Kit Components

Standard Kit:

*Garrett Single T61 Turbo

*Tial Billet 38 MM Waste gate

*Blow Off Valve

*Computer tuner

*Oil fill and return fittings and lines

*Jet Hot Coating of all Tubing

*Quality Silicone Connectors in red, blue or black

*Quality Stainless V band Clamps

*Quality Stainless T bolt Clamps

*CNC Mandrel bent tubing

*Large Conical Air Filter

*3” down pipe (others use 2.5”)

*Y pipe to attach to your stock axle back mufflers

*Oil filter relo kit

*39# Injectors


Optional Features and Prices:

*67MM Turbo = $400

*Ethanol/water injection system = $350

*Tial Billet 44MM Waste Gate-Upgrade = $200

*3” High Performance Catalytic Converter = $100

*76MM Turbo = $700

*Air to air intercooler (core = 3x8x24) = $500

*Turbo Polishing (both sides) = $200

*Turbo Kits are off road use only

*Turbos through 88MM (already tested to fit) = Call for details

*Upgraded intercooler = 30% larger = $700

*Upgraded Fuel Injectors = Call for details



I have to call him and find out why it would say "Turbo Kits are off road use only".

Aside from install, I need to account for everything else I would need without going overboard. With a single, I don't need a dual pump right?

I saw a clutch on americanmuscle.com would run about $400 / $500.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/exedy-...ch-0510gt.html

Not sure yet about the difference with hydraulic... Any suggestions?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/exedy-...-kit-0510.html

Some basic gauges
http://www.americanmuscle.com/dualga...coal-1012.html

Is that it, or am I missing something?

breathegood

The kits are "for offroad use only" because they don't have C.A.R.B. certification and/or they require the removal of the factory cats. Depending on where you live and drive it may or may not be an issue. Know your local emissions laws before pulling the trigger.

raredesign

Ah! thanks for the clarification.

So based on what comes with the Turbo kit, besides the clutch, fuel pump, and gauges, is there anything else I am missing? I recently just read I should replace the flywheel along with the clutch. Any advice is appreciated.

kirk35

Don't go cheap on the clutch, or you'll just have to spend the money twice. You probably want to upgrade the driveshaft also and install a safety loop while you are at it.

I would also recommend quality fuel pressure, AFR and boost gauges. Skip the handheld tuner and budget for a dyno tune. I've seen many canned tunes that are borderline dangerous.

I would also suggest upgrading the fuel pump and running a boost referenced regulator. You'll hear all kinds of stories about people making 9,000 HP on the stock pump, but you only have to go lean once to put a big hole in the side of the block.

Another often overlooked item in a FI application is valve springs, the factory springs won't cut it in a boosted motor.

All in all, the turbo kit is probably only about half the cost of a reliable FI build.

raredesign

Thanks for the reply. I don't intend to go to the track yet, as it involves much more to make it reliable, and I have heard bad thins about a aftermarket drive shafts such as the single piece aluminum. Hopefully I will be fine with moderate rwhp on the stock two-peice drive shaft. I like the idea of a safety loop.

Thanks for the valve spring info, and I do plan on getting the dual fuel pump. The kit comes with a fuelpump, and the site states that he will deduct it from the price if I don't want it.

Would this be the right one? http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-f...mp-0509gt.html

Thanks!

outceltj

Id suggest ID injectors. expensive but work great. hardened input shaft wouldnt hurt.

kirk35

I'd probably go with the Aeromotive set-up. It's designed to accept a return line.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/aeromo...t-00509gt.html

I'd also install a good boost referenced Fuel Pressure Regulator. This will increase your fuel rail pressure in direct proportion to boost. This makes tuning so much easier.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Aeromotive/Aer...56945/10002/-1

breathegood

If you're not looking to get wild with HP, the complete kit is really all you NEED as long as you have a good tuner. I cannot stress enough that you NEED to have a good tuner on your side if you are going to run a turbo setup. DO NOT TRUST A CANNED OR EMAIL TUNE from anyone!!! Find a tuner BEFORE pulling the trigger on any turbo kit. Pulling up to a shop with your car and kit he's never heard of and saying, "Hey, I already have this, can you make it work?" is just asking for disaster. Take it from someone who has tried a DIY turbo kit and email tuning, you want to establish a relationship with a good tuner that you can talk to face-to-face.

I wouldn't worry about a new clutch or valve train unless you are having issues in those areas. Plenty of Mustangs are running around on the factory clutch and valvetrain at 450-500rwhp. Replace when necessary.

I would suggest spending some $$$ on a one piece driveshaft, short throw shifter, and upgraded springs and shocks. These items enhance the driving experience like you wouldn't believe.

If I had it to do over again with an S197, suspension would be the FIRST thing I spent any money on. It improved the driving experience at least as much as the power increase.....FWIW

The driveshaft and short throw shifter really make a difference in that everything just feels more connected. It's tough to explain. You just have to feel it, once you do, you'll will question how Ford allows so much slop from the factory. You only really need the loop at the track, so you can save the money unless you're going to be at the track often.

Gauges are nice, but not necessary for most street cars, IMO. If the car has a good tune, and everything is installed correctly, the gauges are fluff. At the track, a boost gauge can warn you of overboost and/or vacuum leaks, and a wideband AFR might give you enough warning of a dangerously lean condition to let off the throttle, but neither will actually offer any protection against engine failure. They also will only tell you that there may be a problem, they won't diagnose the problem. I have a boost, pryo, and wideband in my car. I find them at least as distracting as they are informative. I also really dislike the aesthetics of any of the available pods. I wish I had done something different.

With a turbo, you might find that the 4.10s are a little steep. Great for N/A bolt-on mods, but with a turbo, I would rather have more MPH range to spool continuously than have to re-spool on shorter shift points. Try it first though, you might feel that's the sweet spot for your driving style.

Other than that, you might consider stepping up to a little wider tire than 255 in the rear.

Simon1

Stock valve springs are just fine. Don't mess with them. They can hold stock cams into the 7000 range with no issues. We don't get valve float or other issues with them.

There is no intercooler listed in the parts, you'll need one of those.

There is no MAF listed or MAFia, you'll need one of those. If you do not, you will be stuck with the air flow the stock MAF can read.

The injectors will limit you to somewhere in the 500 rwhp range. If it were me, I would get 60# and then be done with purchasing them again.

Listen to breathgood about the tuning. Turbos need custom tuning to really make them run the best. Find someone who has done tuning on these cars beofre and verify their ability by talking ot their customer. It says their is a computer tuner included in the kit, it just doesn't say what it is. Find out what it is and speak with your tuner. Most seem to prefer SCT.

The turbo it comes with will get you the power you want. If you ever rebuild the engine and want more power you'll need more turbo to take advantage of a built motor. I would consider the 68mm.

As far as waste gates are concerned, I'm not exactly sure what the benifit of getting a larger one is. My thought is that they are designed for higher HP applications. Mine was rather easy to work on when needed. I beleive at high PSI levels or when operating a larger turbo, I think the waste gate needs to be bigger to release more air and prevent boost creep.

For your fuel system you do not need anything really complicated. A set of GT500 pumps would do you just fine. If you did end up blowing the motor and needed more fuel, all you would need to add is a dual BAP and you would be good to probably somewhere in the low 600 rwhp range.

The above is from my own expereinces. I am not an expert.

I know you are not asking, but I am going to say it anyways. For a street car a twin screw blower is the easiest blower to install, work on, tune and drive. I've been lurking and posting here for 8 years and my overall impression of the turbo world is that they are most a race application than a street application. They are awesome power makers, sound awesome and have a really good cool factor.

If you want to get good track times from the turbo, you will need to switch the rear gear ratio. 4.10s and turbos are not conducive to one another. By switching from a 4.10 to a 3.55 I picked .5 in the 1/4 and 4-5 mph. Just something to consider for future plans.

Good luck.

808muscle

I have had my roush blower on my car for 4.5 years and well over 400 passes at the drags with no issues. Why turbo? So much more complicated to install and tune. If your not fully commited to turbo yet I would research supercharger options. Easier to install, maintain and tune. There are plenty of complete kits that you dont need to add anything too. My car is run with an email tune as well. No dyno needed at all.