want to lower my car

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08-21-2015, 08:48 PM

#31

LOLBurnouts

Join Date: Jun 2014

Location: California

Posts: 23

Lowered mine 1.5" with an SVE spring/shock/GT500 mount kit from LMR.

Also got Whiteline LCAs/LCA Relocation Brackets/UCA/Panhard Bar/Panhard Brace/Camber Bolts.

Beware: My Magnaflow Comp Catback rattles like mad against the Panhard Brace when going over the crappy roads in my area and hits the rear axle vent when going over dips at anything above 15mph. Seriously, the car sounds like **** when I go over anything but a freshly paved road.

I had the hose with bulb TSB done on the rear axle and the exhaust hit and ripped that hose. Gonna get the Lethalperformance GenII over axle pipes an probably run GT500 or just the stock mufflers and replace the hose.

Last edited by LOLBurnouts; 08-21-2015 at 08:58 PM.

08-23-2015, 08:20 AM

#32

Norm Peterson

6th Gear Member

Join Date: Feb 2007

Location: state of confusion

Posts: 7,635

Quote:

Originally Posted by harleycharlie

thats off a lot!! I have worked on cars for 47 years, (I should have learned to sing or dance!) but all have been IRS cars lowering them presented different problems but never left to right issues, so this is new to me, like a lot of other stuff with this car. Product knowledge is huge. So I listen, to guys like you who have had to deal with the eccentricities of the brand. I ordered a little earlier today, an adjustable panhard rod, as it seems to be a part of the process of lowering a mustang!! Thanks for taking time to confirm that I didn't waste my money!! Keep me on my toes, and maybe I can someday pass my wealth of knowledge onto others. (As long as it about Mercedes/BMW autos! Ya, I know cars are cars! but not really!)

I can't tell how for you've progressed with this, but I do have a few thoughts.

First - avoid using aftermarket crash bolts for camber adjustment. They're only capable of being torqued to about half of Ford's spec for strut to knuckle bolts. If you've already done this, you could still perform Ford's own camber bolt procedure (uses full strength bolts but you have to oval the strut tab holes to suit, and there is a spec of sorts for that).

Second - since the PHB swings in an arc, the axle is forced to move laterally slightly as the suspension moves or is lowered. Geometrically, 1/4" movement is not possible, but if the car is lowered and the PHB bushings end up being loaded differently because the PHB bolts were not loosened before lowering and retorqued afterward I suppose you could get some extra and unexpected axle movement. Also, if the axle location was not measured after rolling the car post-lowering, the rear of the car might not have settled ride-height wise and therefore laterally as well.

FWIW, I'm running Koni yellows (shocks and struts) and Sam Strano's front and rear stabilizer bars. Still not lowered because there is one or two influences from lowering that I'm unwilling to accept and haven't figured out how I'm going to compensate for them without screwing something else up.

Norm