djbigskrilla

Good day folks,
Okay, I want to be as clear and as detailed as possible so this will be a long read (sorry up front, but I know it will help you all understand the circumstances and help me in the long run). I will start off with the beginning and take it from there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here we go, this all started roughly 2 months ago. I had been putting a lot of hard miles on my car (2009 GT/CS) roughly 200 miles per day with lots of stop and go driving (I am a district manager for a news paper I have open routes that I am having to run thus delivering those papers nightly and putting lots of miles on the car). I took the car in for an oil change after having ran all night long. No issues what so ever as usual. After leaving the Oil Service Center, I took it in for a quick wash at an automatic wash. Again no issues all was fine. Upon leaving the wash and heading home I noticed a very high pitch whine (similar to a super charger) the noise would increase in pitch as you accelerated, and would decrease in pitch when decelerating. I made it home thinking it was possibly my antenna not being screwed in good / possibly cross threaded and that I was getting road noise through the radio. I checked that out and ruled it out as the issue. Upon doing another test run just down the road from the house I could not get the car to replicate the issue. So I turned around thinking maybe it was just me. Then it started again on the way home. So, I called some services places figured out it was likely in the Trans.(REMINDER NO CHECK ENGINE OR ANY OTHER LIGHTS WERE ON AT THIS POINT). I lined up a trans shop to look at it and in the long run was told I needed a new trans. (all bearings inside, input and output shafts with bearings, synchros, 5th gear all needed to be changed). So I sourced out a trans with 17K miles on it, ordered a new clutch kit etc. After the Trans was delivered, the clutch kit shows up (one of the employees took my newly purchased clutch kit, loaded it onto a truck with cores and shipped it off. It was sent back after the weekend, and installed). After the clutch and trans were finally installed we thought there was a problem with the trans not being bled fully as the clutch would not fully disengage, the car sat for 3 weeks at the shop with this same issue. It would have continued to sit there until I was called to get the car or to have it put back on the lift and checked to which they would have to charge me labor fees again. I wasn't having any part of that but wanted my car fixed. So I finally was able to get a hold of the owner of the shop voiced my concerned about them wanting to recharge me labor to check and fix any issues after all of the issues with clutch kits being shipped out, not knowing if it was the same clutch I ordered, no way to prove it was factory defective now, and warranty being voided on those parts etc. I was able to get them to take the trans back out and it was found that I had a defective pressure plate, a new clutch kit was ordered and installed (new parts and labor of no cost to me).

This is where things get to the point I am at now. When I picked up the car I had a Check Engine light on. We all assumed that it was possibly a cause of them working on the car and unplugging things and it would likely reset it self (at first the car ran fine just had the check engine light on). So after about 2 more weeks the light has not gone off. Occassionally, the car will want to stall out and die, during this time it idles rough and after a few moments the car runs fine again. Though I do seem to be burning a lot more gas than I should, and I can smell it being a bit on the rich side. So I pull into my local O'Reiley's and have them check the codes for me. The list below is the codes they were able to pull:
p0135 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0155 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 2
p1000 - on-Board Diagnostic OBD System Rediness Test Not Complete
The First 2 Codes deal with O2 sensors one possible fix was to replace Fuse #47 (I checked the current fuse it looked okay but replaced anyway)
The Last lists 4 different reported fixes everything from: Clean Throttle Body (which I did do), performed emission monitor drive cycles, performed powertrain control module (PCM) Programming, and Replaced Fuel Pump w/P2106,P2135.
Again I changed the fuse, and cleaned the throttle body this made no difference.

All that leads me to TODAY 8/7/15! I again went to take off for work and same as usual here over the last couple of weeks, however, I went to pull onto the highway and the car fell on its face. It would barely accellerate, when I finally did get going it had no power, it simply felt like someone cut off the power to the car. I was ale to get going and got up to highway speeds though it was sluggish. I never noticed it on my way into the office however, I eventually noticed the Wrench Light came on while on my way home. Upon some research I found that this is a Limp Mode. To which my car has all the symptoms of. I noticed you can't use cruise control, and for whatever reason (this does not seem like it should be related to limp mode but possibly so) the A/C stopped blowing cold all of a sudden (I live in south Louisiana the temps are pushing 100 daily right now the A/C is needed!!! LOL!). The fan speeds work fine and warm air will blow out but no cold air. The A/C light is on, I have not checked the fuse for it nor do I know which one to look for but that wouldn't be too difficult to find out. So I again went by my local O'Reiley's and had them pull the codes again since the Limp Mode light came on. The following is the list of codes that were pulled from this instance: *PLEASE NOTE* THE PREVIOUS CODES WERE NOT CLEARED AS THEY WOULD NOT CLEAR THEM FOR ME! ALSO, THESE ARE THE CODES THAT PULLED UP AND I AM ONLY LISTING THEM ONCE THOUGH MANY OF THESE APPEARED MULTIPLE TIMES!!
p0155 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 1
p0446 - Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit
p2008 - Intake Manifold Runner Control IMRC Circuit Open Bank 1
p2196 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased Stuck Rich - Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0135 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0010 - Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open Bank 1
p0020 - Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open Bank 2
p0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low
p0132 - O2 Circuit High Voltage Bank 1, Sensor 1

In doing my research (The Little I was able to do today before posting this) it's stated that the Wrench Light (Limp Mode) typically is caused by a bad or going bad Throttle Body, However, if you look at the codes there are quite a few that point to O2 Sensor problems, I also know that one issue may cause other unrelated codes to populate so it could be any of a number of issues causing the codes which is why I need you guys help.

Though the above may be the case for the codes I will not rule out the fact that I may have a loose plug / bad connection on an O2 sensor that was the fault of the Trans shop. To be perfectly honest, I really don't know where to begin my search to getting the issue resolved. I am hoping that you all can help me get to the bottom of this. I really can't afford nor do I want to start changing O2 sensors and replacing a Throttle Body or vice versa if I do not have to (while the new throttle body would be nice to upgrade it is not in the budget at the moment, especically when most require a tune afterwards).

Again any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Justin

bl817

sounds like you need a new alternator. you may have spent a lot of money on things that weren't the problem. a failing alternator will cause all your symptoms plus some. run from the shop who said it was the clutch, get a good alt, slap it on and report back. even if your alt checks good at the parts store, get a new one. preferably one for a 2010 car. it will fit. it is upgraded and should get rid of your troubles. welcome and good luck

SCCAGT

First off, an oxygen sensor going bad will not force the car into limp mode. And it is only the heater circuit portion of the sensor, so that only affects cold starts. Once car is warmed up the heater is no longer used, and the sensor functions as it should. And generally speaking, the remaining O2 codes reflect the RESULT of other problems, not the sensors themselves. So that leaves us with MAF, IMRC, and EVAP. Very few conditions with the EVAP system will result in driveability problems. Having the IMRC is used to help low end torque/high rpm air flow. If the runners are stuck open...no power loss there. Air flow is always there. If they are stuck closed, well, you may have a bit of a problem, and can use IMRC deletes if you wanna pitch those oem parts. Which kinda brings us down to the MAF. If that $160 Ford sensor fails, the computer WILL NOT correctly read air flow, which means the computer cannot squirt in the correct amount of fuel. Too much, or not enough fuel, means car no worky. DO NOT use a MAF from the parts stores. Odds are against you getting a perfect one, or one you wont be replacing frequently. Get oem on this and forget about it.
I'm sure someone will say get a can of MAF spray cleaner and try it out. You can, but if the car went to hell that quick, cleaning it wont do anything.

A bad alternator has thrown codes before, but you have not said if the whining went away after the clutch was replaced.

Good luck

dusman59

Maybe the shop never did a relearn for crank position sensor if it was moved during the clutch install.

djbigskrilla

I'm sorry guys you are correct. Once the Trans, and new (again) clutch was installed the whine went away apparently it was in the old trans and possibly a bearing going bad. I'm not certain that the shop did a relearn after everything was installed. I've had others say that it could possibly be the Alt. but maybe it's just me I just don't see how this would be the cause of these other issues. One of the things I suspected with the new series of Codes being thrown was due to the car being in Limp Mode, thought I am not sure about this either. I am no mechanic and this is the newest / smartest car I have ever owned or worked with, so a lot of these issues are very new to me. My last vehicle was a 2006 GMC Sierra that I traded in for the Mustang because it had a lot of miles and I had little use for a truck. I never had any issues like this with the truck so I never had to do any work to it. I also never done any modifications to it. Currently the Mustang only has 1 modification and that is a Borla Atak Axel Back system on it, outside of some wheels. There are no other engine mods, no trans mods, no rear end mods etc.

jwog666

it sounds to me that when they pulled your trans they pinched the wiring harness between the engine and trans on the reassemble and now the wires are pinched and shorting together, these are all circuit codes and can only be caused by faulty wiring (to have them all at the same time) check that area and see if u can get eyes on the harness, i would bet money that its been damaged

djbigskrilla

Ok guys just a little update, since I dont have days off and have little time I was able to get a look at the car this morning. I checked fuse 47 and it was blown (again, it's hard to tell on these fuses if they are blown as they are pretty cloudy. Though they both have had small dark spots on them like a burn and the second I could almost certainly tell it was blown). I didn't have any 15amp fuses to replace it with so I put in a 20amp just to see if things would work better, went down the driveway and as soon as I went to shift to second the wrench light came back on. I turned around pulled back in the driveway parked and checked the fuse. Again hard to tell but much easier than the blue 15 amp ones. I inspected the new fuse well before putting it in so I knew if there was any differences. Sure enough the fuse is blown. I don't have anymore 15 or 20 amp fuses and I really dont want to put a 30 amp in there just to check again. Ill swing by a store and grab some fuses which isnt a big deal. I am beginning to lean towards what you guys suspect with either the pinched/frayed/cut harness, or possibly a sensor wire that has been damaged. I'm trying to get some extra time so that I can pull my car up on my ramps and see if I can look at the underside to view the harness or O2 Sensors/Wires. Thanks for the insight guys I will keep you all posted and if this little bit of info helps you all diagnose anymore please feel free to add. All info I can get is greatly appreciated and will help me not only get the car fixed but will help me in making the decision on if it is to bring the car back to the shop to have them fix repairs they created or if I will be doing it on my own or with another shop. Thanks again.

ucinn

Definitely sounds like a pinched wire which is sending the juice straight to ground. ***do NOT ever put in a higher rated fuse than called for, you can do some serious damage to the whole electrical circuit doing that. The fuses are there to protect the circuit and are rated at what that particular section of the circuit can take without doing any damage. Find out what fuse 47 controls and there in you may very well find your problem or whar wiring to look at.

jwog666

no kidding, the quickest way to a car fire is to replace fuses with higher rated ones

djbigskrilla

I absolutely agree with you both. I don't usually do that. However, that is why I went with the lowest fuse I had at the time which was 5amps over the one pulled. I used to do a lot of car audio stuff and still do quite a bit of Audio Engineering in recording etc. I know the damage that can be done by putting in a higher than rated fuse. It was my only option at the moment (being on foot until my wife came home) to get new fuses. I was pretty sure the slightly larger fuse wouldn't do much more harm than has already been done. It was only to see if the light would go off by completing the circuit and if not if the fuse would blow as well (which it did). The car was since placed on my ramps and I will be checking in the morning (when i'm able to) to look for any damaged wires etc. I'm hoping this proves to the be issue and in which case I will have a new direction to go. I do appreciate everyone's help and concerns. I will keep you all updated as more develops.

Thanks again
Justin