Suspension Questions
08-22-2015, 05:55 PM
#1
Suspension Questions
Hey Everyone!
So I recently started on some suspension work, some new springs and a BMR panhard bar has done the trick so far as you can see. But, i'm wondering if I should go any further. Now it has the 3.7 performance pack, so would it even be worth it to upgrade to say Eibach front and rear sway bars? The rear sway bar on the car now looks beefy enough now. Also, what about BMR's rear lower control arms? I just want to get the best performance for the best value!
Thanks for your input!
So I recently started on some suspension work, some new springs and a BMR panhard bar has done the trick so far as you can see. But, i'm wondering if I should go any further. Now it has the 3.7 performance pack, so would it even be worth it to upgrade to say Eibach front and rear sway bars? The rear sway bar on the car now looks beefy enough now. Also, what about BMR's rear lower control arms? I just want to get the best performance for the best value!
Thanks for your input!
08-23-2015, 07:55 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
I won't get into any appearance discussions beyond noting that "improving the appearance" does not guarantee that you've improved the performance by the same amount (or even at all).
What are you trying to improve? Are you trying to fix something that the car does (or doesn't do) that you want it to do differently?
For what kind of hard driving (if any)? Ordinary, mild to moderate street driving doesn't actually need anything beyond normal maintenance/replacement of things like shocks, struts, ball joints, and possibly suspension bushings.
Norm
What are you trying to improve? Are you trying to fix something that the car does (or doesn't do) that you want it to do differently?
For what kind of hard driving (if any)? Ordinary, mild to moderate street driving doesn't actually need anything beyond normal maintenance/replacement of things like shocks, struts, ball joints, and possibly suspension bushings.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 08-23-2015 at 07:58 AM.
08-23-2015, 12:17 PM
#3
I fully understand appearance rarely if ever equals performance upgrades. Lol I wouldnt be spending money on parts nobody would ever see haha!
I just want to car to be a bit more neutral. Even with the measly 3.7 engine and 285 tires, the car will still step out even under normal to sporty driving. Yes you want understeer, but i'd prefer for a more controlled form of understeer. Right now turn in and roll through the apex is pretty decent, it's just power off where I would like to have more confidence.
I just want to car to be a bit more neutral. Even with the measly 3.7 engine and 285 tires, the car will still step out even under normal to sporty driving. Yes you want understeer, but i'd prefer for a more controlled form of understeer. Right now turn in and roll through the apex is pretty decent, it's just power off where I would like to have more confidence.
08-23-2015, 07:58 PM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Glad to hear you aren't just in a mood to just throw parts at the car because they are available or #becausebling.
Are you trying to describe a tendency for the rear of the car to "loosen" or threaten to go oversteerish when you back out of the throttle while cornering at/above moderately hard? That's what I'm guessing at this point.
If so, the easy answer is "stop doing that" (though firmer damping might help rein it in). Actually, "drop-throttle oversteer" (aka lift-throttle oversteer or trailing throttle oversteer) is a driver-induced geometric rear axle steer effect that probably can't be eliminated completely by swapping parts. You either maintain throttle or you dial out a little steering while you're lifting off the gas (don't wait until you're already off the gas to start unwinding the steering).
But once you find that you can trust the car to not actually snap completely loose and spin it can be a useful track driving trick for getting the car to turn into the corner faster than it would otherwise want to.
Norm
Are you trying to describe a tendency for the rear of the car to "loosen" or threaten to go oversteerish when you back out of the throttle while cornering at/above moderately hard? That's what I'm guessing at this point.
If so, the easy answer is "stop doing that" (though firmer damping might help rein it in). Actually, "drop-throttle oversteer" (aka lift-throttle oversteer or trailing throttle oversteer) is a driver-induced geometric rear axle steer effect that probably can't be eliminated completely by swapping parts. You either maintain throttle or you dial out a little steering while you're lifting off the gas (don't wait until you're already off the gas to start unwinding the steering).
But once you find that you can trust the car to not actually snap completely loose and spin it can be a useful track driving trick for getting the car to turn into the corner faster than it would otherwise want to.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 08-23-2015 at 08:01 PM.
08-23-2015, 09:27 PM
#5
No lift off oversteer thank goodness. The problem is not so much the correction of the oversteer, but I guess the initiation of it. It is actually very holdable during an oversteer moment, I guess meaning i can either easily continue that slide or rotate out of it. I guess its that initiation of say the exit of a corner (mainly from a low speed corner) that is what gets me. Again, its very very controllable, I just figured with the low power output of my car, maybe a beefier sway bar or something would rein that in a bit.
08-24-2015, 07:09 AM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Lift-throttle oversteer doesn't have to put you all the way into the rear of the car running way wide of the front for you to feel. It's always going to be there, and most of the time shows up as reduced understeer where the car might feel like it's rotating a little more freely.
Better tires. Preferably on wheels wider than "measuring width" for the size in question. At least play with tire pressures a bit.
A beefier rear sta-bar will make this worse. Stiffening up the front bar will make it better, but at the cost of heavier understeer at other times.
If you're still on the OE rear LCAs, you really don't want the aftermarket kind that has poly bushings in both ends (they'll make looseness/tailhappiness even harder to avoid).
On-throttle oversteer (power oversteer) is a driver problem that needs a driver mod - when you're in 2nd gear exiting a tight turn, tread even more lightly on the gas (squeezed, not stomped, with apologies to Agent 007). Your car and mine are about even on HP, and you're not so far back on torque that throttle caused oversteer is going to be all that much more difficult to get.
Norm
Better tires. Preferably on wheels wider than "measuring width" for the size in question. At least play with tire pressures a bit.
A beefier rear sta-bar will make this worse. Stiffening up the front bar will make it better, but at the cost of heavier understeer at other times.
If you're still on the OE rear LCAs, you really don't want the aftermarket kind that has poly bushings in both ends (they'll make looseness/tailhappiness even harder to avoid).
On-throttle oversteer (power oversteer) is a driver problem that needs a driver mod - when you're in 2nd gear exiting a tight turn, tread even more lightly on the gas (squeezed, not stomped, with apologies to Agent 007). Your car and mine are about even on HP, and you're not so far back on torque that throttle caused oversteer is going to be all that much more difficult to get.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 08-24-2015 at 07:14 PM. Reason: bad spelling
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tj@steeda
Steeda Autosports
0
09-08-2015 11:50 AM