EPAS Rack steering fights me. Pulls left. It's Alive!!!
10-19-2015, 12:13 PM
#31
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 22
I do notice a slight difference here.
Left wheel. Is this the bushing?
Right wheel. Is this the bushing?
Still working towards a rack. I will be getting an alignment for sure and maybe front tires. I have Pirelli stock tires in front right now, and they have some life left, but not worth keeping to figure the problem out.
I notice the steering feel gets weird and fights me a little especially when I do all these at the same time. Slowing down and braking and changing lanes. Sometimes with down shifting instead of braking or with braking too while changing lanes. Usually when changing to a left lane. Mainly at 5 to 10 mph, but it continues to fight me as I accelerate faster. I want to go straight and the force feed back wants to go slightly left although it can be right sometimes. Nothing dramatic at high speeds or highway speeds. The pull or synthetic force does not get any worse accelerating or at higher speeds, but can linger for a period of time after the glitch.
It seems to be mainly in the steering wheel force.
I am just getting weird force feedback in steering wheel.
The pulling left motion is rare and may be due to braking fluid or a caliber acting up.
Left wheel. Is this the bushing?
Right wheel. Is this the bushing?
Still working towards a rack. I will be getting an alignment for sure and maybe front tires. I have Pirelli stock tires in front right now, and they have some life left, but not worth keeping to figure the problem out.
I notice the steering feel gets weird and fights me a little especially when I do all these at the same time. Slowing down and braking and changing lanes. Sometimes with down shifting instead of braking or with braking too while changing lanes. Usually when changing to a left lane. Mainly at 5 to 10 mph, but it continues to fight me as I accelerate faster. I want to go straight and the force feed back wants to go slightly left although it can be right sometimes. Nothing dramatic at high speeds or highway speeds. The pull or synthetic force does not get any worse accelerating or at higher speeds, but can linger for a period of time after the glitch.
It seems to be mainly in the steering wheel force.
I am just getting weird force feedback in steering wheel.
The pulling left motion is rare and may be due to braking fluid or a caliber acting up.
Last edited by jot; 10-19-2015 at 12:52 PM.
10-19-2015, 12:42 PM
#33
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 414
Sorry man, I'm just seeing black x's too.
As for what could be causing your steering issues, I would be more inclined to believe it may be something with the installation of all of your aftermarket suspension bits. Someone may have installed something incorrectly or something adjustable may be off. I'd look for a reputable shop with suspension knowledge and ask them to go through it. Your suspension can cause A LOT of steering issues with a car. In some cases, it might not be something wrong; for instance something could have been installed and dialed in for track use and it cause sever steering issues on street surfaces. Just a thought though.
As for what could be causing your steering issues, I would be more inclined to believe it may be something with the installation of all of your aftermarket suspension bits. Someone may have installed something incorrectly or something adjustable may be off. I'd look for a reputable shop with suspension knowledge and ask them to go through it. Your suspension can cause A LOT of steering issues with a car. In some cases, it might not be something wrong; for instance something could have been installed and dialed in for track use and it cause sever steering issues on street surfaces. Just a thought though.
10-19-2015, 12:54 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 22
How about now?
Left front wheel. Is this the bushing u are talking about?
Right front wheel. Is this the bushing u are talking about?
I see a difference and lack of symmetry.
Left front wheel. Is this the bushing u are talking about?
Right front wheel. Is this the bushing u are talking about?
I see a difference and lack of symmetry.
Last edited by jot; 10-19-2015 at 04:07 PM.
10-19-2015, 04:09 PM
#35
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,260
How about now?
Left front wheel. Is this the bushing u are talking about?
Attachment 41619
Right front wheel. Is this the bushing u are talking about?
Attachment 41620
I see a difference and lack of symmetry.
Left front wheel. Is this the bushing u are talking about?
Attachment 41619
Right front wheel. Is this the bushing u are talking about?
Attachment 41620
I see a difference and lack of symmetry.
10-19-2015, 05:37 PM
#36
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
That's what they look like to me.
I'm beginning to wonder if there is any looseness or play in those aftermarket rear LCAs and/or relo brackets that might be affecting thrust angle under certain conditions. Due to the way most aftermarket rear control arms are designed, simply torquing the bolts down even tighter may not solve the matter even if it is the fault of a LCA or relo bracket.
Norm
I'm beginning to wonder if there is any looseness or play in those aftermarket rear LCAs and/or relo brackets that might be affecting thrust angle under certain conditions. Due to the way most aftermarket rear control arms are designed, simply torquing the bolts down even tighter may not solve the matter even if it is the fault of a LCA or relo bracket.
Norm
11-21-2015, 08:53 AM
#37
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 22
***!!! SOLVED !!!***
****!!!! SOLVED !!!!****
I bought the car in for an alignment to Steeda. After Ford, BBR, and local guys. They are the only ones locally that specialize in alignments for lowered cars. Mine was lowered an 1" to 1.5".
They test drove it and I told them the whole long story about the steering and the steering shaft hammering.
I have had the car half a year now. After the test drive they turned the front wheels and showed me wear on the inside of both front tires. Not only did it need an alignment , but the Camber was off. Not a lot, but enough of a cant or angle to make it strange. Most of my anomalies were changing lanes and the tech said that canted fronts are good for gripping in the turns because when you shift in a turn or lane change the car's tire shifts and a canted tire will ride on half the wheel straight and all of it turning.
Too me this sounded horrible for the street and I have seen these kids with extreme lowering and I have seen how unstable their cars are. One raced me and started difting into my lane, so I ease off and watch them go into some wet road and loose total control of their little lowered car like a go cart swerving out of control. Only to find out my car has some of this non sense!
Now the car is more awesome than ever. The Steeda guys put on an adjustable front strut/spring mount, and aligned the car with no cant in the camber of the front wheels. The car still had the Ford front mounts on with the ball bearing that can't handle the stress of a lowered car.
*** EPAS DOES NOT LIKE LOWERED CARS WITH CANTED CAMBER ****
No more weird force feedback changing lanes. No shaking or loosing at highway speeds. No anomalies driving the car hard.
Make sure your car is lowered correctly. Don't mess with this EPAS electronic computer stuff. It likes stock settings on the front tires. My tires are R20, but my side walls are small so the tire size in the front is the same as stock. Width too. Now they said there will be a little feedback due to any lowered car, but it is 10 times less.
_______________________
I am still glad I have the hammering of the steering shaft connected to the EPAS documented. It might help if it fails outside warranty. It costs $2000 plus labor. They should nicer to it!
I bought the car in for an alignment to Steeda. After Ford, BBR, and local guys. They are the only ones locally that specialize in alignments for lowered cars. Mine was lowered an 1" to 1.5".
They test drove it and I told them the whole long story about the steering and the steering shaft hammering.
I have had the car half a year now. After the test drive they turned the front wheels and showed me wear on the inside of both front tires. Not only did it need an alignment , but the Camber was off. Not a lot, but enough of a cant or angle to make it strange. Most of my anomalies were changing lanes and the tech said that canted fronts are good for gripping in the turns because when you shift in a turn or lane change the car's tire shifts and a canted tire will ride on half the wheel straight and all of it turning.
Too me this sounded horrible for the street and I have seen these kids with extreme lowering and I have seen how unstable their cars are. One raced me and started difting into my lane, so I ease off and watch them go into some wet road and loose total control of their little lowered car like a go cart swerving out of control. Only to find out my car has some of this non sense!
Now the car is more awesome than ever. The Steeda guys put on an adjustable front strut/spring mount, and aligned the car with no cant in the camber of the front wheels. The car still had the Ford front mounts on with the ball bearing that can't handle the stress of a lowered car.
*** EPAS DOES NOT LIKE LOWERED CARS WITH CANTED CAMBER ****
No more weird force feedback changing lanes. No shaking or loosing at highway speeds. No anomalies driving the car hard.
Make sure your car is lowered correctly. Don't mess with this EPAS electronic computer stuff. It likes stock settings on the front tires. My tires are R20, but my side walls are small so the tire size in the front is the same as stock. Width too. Now they said there will be a little feedback due to any lowered car, but it is 10 times less.
_______________________
I am still glad I have the hammering of the steering shaft connected to the EPAS documented. It might help if it fails outside warranty. It costs $2000 plus labor. They should nicer to it!
Last edited by jot; 11-21-2015 at 09:01 AM.
11-21-2015, 09:11 AM
#38
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Do you happen to have a print-out sheet showing what the cambers were before the were adjusted?
Yes, EPAS the way Ford is doing it is known to be sensitive to certain suspension changes. What happened to you suggests that it may not play nice with certain combinations of alignment, tire, and wheel changes either.
Norm
Yes, EPAS the way Ford is doing it is known to be sensitive to certain suspension changes. What happened to you suggests that it may not play nice with certain combinations of alignment, tire, and wheel changes either.
Norm
11-21-2015, 09:24 AM
#39
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 22
Notice that last night. I can ask if they have previous, but it probably would have been on the paperwork.
Getting new front tires.
How are the Nito's Invo with the fancy tread?
http://www.nittotire.com/passenger-t...formance-tire/
Getting new front tires.
How are the Nito's Invo with the fancy tread?
http://www.nittotire.com/passenger-t...formance-tire/
Last edited by jot; 11-21-2015 at 09:27 AM.
12-21-2015, 11:17 AM
#40
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 22
bump.
Only lowered 1" to 2". The Ford stock front strut mounts were left on the car, and went bad and the car's front tire camber was canted slightly wearing out the inner part of the 2 front tires. Stock front strut mounts are not good on lowered Mustangs Steeda said.
My conclusion is the front tire camber angle caused wigging out the EPAS feedback and the stability computers affecting synthetic steering feel and maybe even the anti skid on the front brakes from the stability computers. Mainly when I would change lanes and the tires would shift slightly. I also got brake pulling like a bad caliber when I would change lanes and brake for lets say coming up to a red light.
This was fixed by Steeda adjustable front strut mounts and an alignment. ***An alignment by someone that deals with mod cars*** like Steeda. Car drives amazing now. For street driving the EPAS (Electric Power Assist Steering) needs the car's front tires to be close to stock. If you get bigger rims for maybe bigger brakes then use a smaller side wall tire, so the circumference is the same as stock. I would not widen or use thinner front tires either with the EPAS.
Only lowered 1" to 2". The Ford stock front strut mounts were left on the car, and went bad and the car's front tire camber was canted slightly wearing out the inner part of the 2 front tires. Stock front strut mounts are not good on lowered Mustangs Steeda said.
My conclusion is the front tire camber angle caused wigging out the EPAS feedback and the stability computers affecting synthetic steering feel and maybe even the anti skid on the front brakes from the stability computers. Mainly when I would change lanes and the tires would shift slightly. I also got brake pulling like a bad caliber when I would change lanes and brake for lets say coming up to a red light.
This was fixed by Steeda adjustable front strut mounts and an alignment. ***An alignment by someone that deals with mod cars*** like Steeda. Car drives amazing now. For street driving the EPAS (Electric Power Assist Steering) needs the car's front tires to be close to stock. If you get bigger rims for maybe bigger brakes then use a smaller side wall tire, so the circumference is the same as stock. I would not widen or use thinner front tires either with the EPAS.
Last edited by jot; 12-21-2015 at 11:27 AM.
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