Aftermarket calipers for non-brembo rotors?
#1
Aftermarket calipers for non-brembo rotors?
Are there any aftermarket calipers for non brembo size rotors? 13.22 inch is the size i believe. Brembos might be 14.
I got aftermarket rotors and caliper slide pins for the calipers to try to fix a creaking, but it didnt work and my calipers still creak. So I am trying to find some aftermarket calipers that fit stock non brembo size rotors.
I havent been able to find any, does anyone know of any aftermarket caliper options for these rotors?
Also, they said my pads were heat cracked and kind of disentegrating. Whats the best pad option? Not really sure what to do about my brakes.
If anyone has a set of take off-brembos i may be interested.
I got aftermarket rotors and caliper slide pins for the calipers to try to fix a creaking, but it didnt work and my calipers still creak. So I am trying to find some aftermarket calipers that fit stock non brembo size rotors.
I havent been able to find any, does anyone know of any aftermarket caliper options for these rotors?
Also, they said my pads were heat cracked and kind of disentegrating. Whats the best pad option? Not really sure what to do about my brakes.
If anyone has a set of take off-brembos i may be interested.
#3
If there's one place where I don't recommend playing around it's the brakes. I got new take off 2012 GT rotors and calipers from Roush overstock on ebay for 99. That included all 4 rotors and both front calipers with brackets. The 2012's are bigger than the 2007 GT's, which were 12.5 so it was a moderate upgrade and you can't beat that price.
#4
Heat-checked/cracked pads indicate that they were overheated at least once and probably several times from severe braking events from fairly high speeds or many, many times from slower speeds without enough cooldown time in between. Has this car seen road course (HPDE) track time? Will it? Brisk/enthusiastic mountain driving?
Carbotech has a whole range of pad compounds, and their site has a description of each including suggested applications.
I can't see the calipers themselves being at fault for making noise, even though I don't know what you mean by 'creaking'. When does it happen? Does it matter how hard you're on the brakes?
Norm
#5
I found the EBC yellowstuff to be a good compromise. The y make no noise and they don't fade during track days, even after 10+ laps. The liquid is also really important. I use motul RBF 600.
#6
There is no "best pad" that fits all kinds of usage.
Heat-checked/cracked pads indicate that they were overheated at least once and probably several times from severe braking events from fairly high speeds or many, many times from slower speeds without enough cooldown time in between. Has this car seen road course (HPDE) track time? Will it? Brisk/enthusiastic mountain driving?
Carbotech has a whole range of pad compounds, and their site has a description of each including suggested applications.
I can't see the calipers themselves being at fault for making noise, even though I don't know what you mean by 'creaking'. When does it happen? Does it matter how hard you're on the brakes?
Norm
Heat-checked/cracked pads indicate that they were overheated at least once and probably several times from severe braking events from fairly high speeds or many, many times from slower speeds without enough cooldown time in between. Has this car seen road course (HPDE) track time? Will it? Brisk/enthusiastic mountain driving?
Carbotech has a whole range of pad compounds, and their site has a description of each including suggested applications.
I can't see the calipers themselves being at fault for making noise, even though I don't know what you mean by 'creaking'. When does it happen? Does it matter how hard you're on the brakes?
Norm
The mechanics said the creaking was coming from inside the calipers.
And flash, i have a 2011 which has the same as the 2012's base brakes so that would be no change for me.
I could get the 2013 gt500 brakes which are 15 inch front rotors and 6 piston brembos, but thats about 1200$ and would add like 20+ lbs unsprung rotating mass to my setup.
Last edited by Andy13186; 10-17-2015 at 07:51 PM.
#7
The only things that move inside the calipers are the pistons and their seals, so I'm having more than a little trouble blaming the calipers specifically.
A quick check for replacement calipers indicates that the front calipers on your car are the same as what's on mine (the only difference being your car's front rotors are about 3/4" bigger diameter than the OEs on mine and flash's), and as far as I know the rear brakes are the same including rotor diameter. Since I'm not getting the kind of squeaking you're describing after a whole lot more than a few hard braking events from above 120 (all mine coming from road course track time in bunches of 10 or more without a full cooldown), I really can't make it sound like it's the calipers. But on the off chance that it somehow is, it'd be well worth the effort to ensure that you haven't done something like cook a seal before it becomes a leak.
Are you still running OE pads or OE-replacement pads that have the little springs that are apparently there to help lift the pads off the rotors when you ease your foot off the brake pedal? Whatever they are, in my opinion they aren't nearly enough pad for those snubs from 130 mph, and an increase in rotor diameter isn't going to fix things as long as you stick with the same level pads.
Those little springs, combined with insufficient lubrication where the pads slide in the calipers could be causing your squeak.
I doubt that any Mustang actually needs 15" front brakes until its driver is seriously capable of claiming top results at a time trial event - this obviously involving a car far more fully developed for road course track time. Even 14's aren't absolutely necessary until the driver has outgrown mid-level track pads.
Norm
A quick check for replacement calipers indicates that the front calipers on your car are the same as what's on mine (the only difference being your car's front rotors are about 3/4" bigger diameter than the OEs on mine and flash's), and as far as I know the rear brakes are the same including rotor diameter. Since I'm not getting the kind of squeaking you're describing after a whole lot more than a few hard braking events from above 120 (all mine coming from road course track time in bunches of 10 or more without a full cooldown), I really can't make it sound like it's the calipers. But on the off chance that it somehow is, it'd be well worth the effort to ensure that you haven't done something like cook a seal before it becomes a leak.
Are you still running OE pads or OE-replacement pads that have the little springs that are apparently there to help lift the pads off the rotors when you ease your foot off the brake pedal? Whatever they are, in my opinion they aren't nearly enough pad for those snubs from 130 mph, and an increase in rotor diameter isn't going to fix things as long as you stick with the same level pads.
Those little springs, combined with insufficient lubrication where the pads slide in the calipers could be causing your squeak.
I doubt that any Mustang actually needs 15" front brakes until its driver is seriously capable of claiming top results at a time trial event - this obviously involving a car far more fully developed for road course track time. Even 14's aren't absolutely necessary until the driver has outgrown mid-level track pads.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 10-18-2015 at 07:13 AM.
#8
I do have basic pads. What pad would you recommend for mainly normal street driving? I would prefer very low dust if possible. I may try this and hope it is somehow the pads or the springs you are referring to. Do the aftermarket pads have the springs too?
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks for the replies.
#9
If you're going to continue braking from 130 mph I wouldn't suggest anything below AX6 in Carbotech. Hawk's HPS might be marginally good enough, but braking from that much speed makes me uneasy about those.
AX6 will probably dust a bit more than OE, but that's typically a cost of chasing better braking. My take is that dust washes off easier and cheaper then metal can be straightened and injuries healed.
I know for sure that Carbotech XP10 track pads do not have the little springs, but I'd have to look at the 8's to say for sure about those. No personal experience with Carbotechs below that. I think HPS does have the springs, at least I recall a recent complaint by somebody who had a couple of them fall off an I think it was HPS.
Norm
AX6 will probably dust a bit more than OE, but that's typically a cost of chasing better braking. My take is that dust washes off easier and cheaper then metal can be straightened and injuries healed.
I know for sure that Carbotech XP10 track pads do not have the little springs, but I'd have to look at the 8's to say for sure about those. No personal experience with Carbotechs below that. I think HPS does have the springs, at least I recall a recent complaint by somebody who had a couple of them fall off an I think it was HPS.
Norm
#10
How would these compare to the carbotech?
I can avoid hard high speed braking if necessary, i do want low dust and low noise.
Last edited by Andy13186; 10-19-2015 at 12:43 AM.