Best upgrade parts? Front rotors and pads to reduce fade.
#21
On rotors . . . slotted ones don't seem to get grooved as badly as plain (little bits of grit have a place to go that isn't in a scratch)
Pads - you'll have to report back on those HPS 5.0 pads. What I found was that while the original HPS pads were quiet and didn't dust much at all, they didn't have good initial bite and are really out of their depth at a track day. HP+ have the bite and at least limited track day capability, but dust like crazy and will eat your rotors like they were candy. I've since moved over to Carbotech pads in XP series.
Motul RFF600, and I bleed almost half a liter out before each track day (or two day weekend on the occasion when that happens). About every three times the fluid essentially gets completely changed, for anywhere from once to three changes/year. The stuff comes out pretty black at first.
You're very likely going to add some steady-state understeer up near the limit if you go from a 'square' to a 'staggered' wheel and tire setup. I think you'll eventually either get frustrated by the push or scare yourself trying to crutch the tire push with loose suspension tuning. 285/35-18's on 18x11 Forgestars will fit at all four corners without too much effort (Vorshlag).
Consider getting the FRPP hubs, if only for the ARP studs that they ship with. Never mind why this is more than an offhand light hint.
Norm
Pads - you'll have to report back on those HPS 5.0 pads. What I found was that while the original HPS pads were quiet and didn't dust much at all, they didn't have good initial bite and are really out of their depth at a track day. HP+ have the bite and at least limited track day capability, but dust like crazy and will eat your rotors like they were candy. I've since moved over to Carbotech pads in XP series.
Motul RFF600, and I bleed almost half a liter out before each track day (or two day weekend on the occasion when that happens). About every three times the fluid essentially gets completely changed, for anywhere from once to three changes/year. The stuff comes out pretty black at first.
You're very likely going to add some steady-state understeer up near the limit if you go from a 'square' to a 'staggered' wheel and tire setup. I think you'll eventually either get frustrated by the push or scare yourself trying to crutch the tire push with loose suspension tuning. 285/35-18's on 18x11 Forgestars will fit at all four corners without too much effort (Vorshlag).
Consider getting the FRPP hubs, if only for the ARP studs that they ship with. Never mind why this is more than an offhand light hint.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 03-30-2016 at 08:57 AM.
#22
Yes, we can do a set that is just slotted for you, the rotors would cost the same. Our dimpled and slotted rotors are not drilled clean through the rotor to help it maintain structural integrity and reduce the risk of cracking.
#24
We have added the 2011-2014 Mustang brake rotors to our website. Forums members will need to call in to purchase the rotors at a discount for forum members.
http://granatellimotorsports.com/ind...arent=574&pg=1
http://granatellimotorsports.com/ind...arent=574&pg=1
#25
I went for price to performance when I did my install.
Unless you love the boss rims, go with a set from American Muscle or the like. Very good rims much cheaper then Ford rims.
For the rest:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/russel...-0514-abs.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/powers...it-0510gt.html
As for the fluid, I went with a regular can of Dot4 from autozone. I was surprised that some of the different fluids had different boiling points in the same DOT range, so I grabbed the one with the highest boiling point.
I cant guarantee I drive more aggressive then you, but I can tell you that I defiantly go very very hard on them, to the tune of passengers in the "Oh god, oh god, were all going to die" position. From regular driving to aggressive driving. These seem to get better before they get worse. They go a very long time before I see brake fade.
Unless you love the boss rims, go with a set from American Muscle or the like. Very good rims much cheaper then Ford rims.
For the rest:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/russel...-0514-abs.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/powers...it-0510gt.html
As for the fluid, I went with a regular can of Dot4 from autozone. I was surprised that some of the different fluids had different boiling points in the same DOT range, so I grabbed the one with the highest boiling point.
I cant guarantee I drive more aggressive then you, but I can tell you that I defiantly go very very hard on them, to the tune of passengers in the "Oh god, oh god, were all going to die" position. From regular driving to aggressive driving. These seem to get better before they get worse. They go a very long time before I see brake fade.
Last edited by JDWalton; 04-01-2016 at 09:23 AM.
#28
That's about the cost of 1 cheap forged wheel. Forged wheels are incredibly expensive. Rotary forging (not actual forging) is a different process and is cheaper, but you're still probably not going to get any good ones for that price unless they're used.
#29
These wheels came stock on the Boss 302S factory racer. Not my fault Ford cut the prices so much on them.
Purchased here:
http://www.buyfordracingfromdpm.com/...ms-sensor-kit/
Purchased here:
http://www.buyfordracingfromdpm.com/...ms-sensor-kit/
#30
These wheels came stock on the Boss 302S factory racer. Not my fault Ford cut the prices so much on them.
Purchased here:
http://www.buyfordracingfromdpm.com/...ms-sensor-kit/
Purchased here:
http://www.buyfordracingfromdpm.com/...ms-sensor-kit/