End links
10-05-2016, 06:25 AM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
End links
Hey Guys,
I need to replace the front end links on my mustang. I am going to try an tackle the clunk sound I get when driving over imperfect roads. I know the end links need replaced so since those are cheap, I will do them first and see if I kill two birds with one stone.
Question 1: How are AM parts compared to Rock Auto? I have bought numerous parts from Rock Auto and am very pleased, but AM is having a sale. I wanted to see what people thought.
Question 2: When you replace end links, can the car be jacked or should all 4 wheels be on the ground? The reason I ask is because my friend replaced his sway bar and end links on his car (a Scion) while it was jacked up. After he let it down and drove it for a few days we were hearing weird sounds. Come to find out the end link bent the bolt that was holding it in. The garage we took it too said the car should have had the weight on the suspension before tightening. Something about making sure it doesn't shift. Don't really understand how that works, so that is why I am asking.
Thanks for the info.
I need to replace the front end links on my mustang. I am going to try an tackle the clunk sound I get when driving over imperfect roads. I know the end links need replaced so since those are cheap, I will do them first and see if I kill two birds with one stone.
Question 1: How are AM parts compared to Rock Auto? I have bought numerous parts from Rock Auto and am very pleased, but AM is having a sale. I wanted to see what people thought.
Question 2: When you replace end links, can the car be jacked or should all 4 wheels be on the ground? The reason I ask is because my friend replaced his sway bar and end links on his car (a Scion) while it was jacked up. After he let it down and drove it for a few days we were hearing weird sounds. Come to find out the end link bent the bolt that was holding it in. The garage we took it too said the car should have had the weight on the suspension before tightening. Something about making sure it doesn't shift. Don't really understand how that works, so that is why I am asking.
Thanks for the info.
10-05-2016, 10:31 AM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 4,552
Just jack the front end up. Remove the front wheels and replace. If you have not tried tightening then you may try this. 18mm on one and 8 on the other. Mine have made noise several times and it was because they write not tightened properly.
10-05-2016, 04:49 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ft. Worth Tx
Posts: 601
I use my ramps for this type of job. keeps suspension loaded and easy to get to all the bolts. when done with front, turn car and back up onto ramps, check/tighten bolts. I use Rockauto all the time. ive never had to send back a part. I went with the moog end links with the grease zerk included. around 16$ each. good luck
10-06-2016, 07:04 AM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
I went to go check the tightness. Apparently the wrenches I have don't fit and my sockets are not deep enough. So I went to get my adjustable wrench. Well, after all that I noticed the boots were torn on both end links. So I didn't even bother trying to tighten them. They need replaced.
10-06-2016, 07:06 AM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
I use my ramps for this type of job. keeps suspension loaded and easy to get to all the bolts. when done with front, turn car and back up onto ramps, check/tighten bolts. I use Rockauto all the time. ive never had to send back a part. I went with the moog end links with the grease zerk included. around 16$ each. good luck
10-06-2016, 12:09 PM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Driving one side up on a curb will most likely put the endlinks under some preload, making the job somewhere between unreasonably difficult and flat-out impossible (unless you're the Hulk, you aren't going to be able to one-arm bench press a several hundred lb/in bar very far so you can get the second endlink stud into the hole with the other hand).
Ramps would be a really good investment, and push come to shove you can make your own from varying lengths of two-by lumber spiked/bolted together and beveled where you'd drive up on them. Cheap, heavy, and utterly reliable.
Norm
Ramps would be a really good investment, and push come to shove you can make your own from varying lengths of two-by lumber spiked/bolted together and beveled where you'd drive up on them. Cheap, heavy, and utterly reliable.
Norm
10-06-2016, 12:29 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
Driving one side up on a curb will most likely put the endlinks under some preload, making the job somewhere between unreasonably difficult and flat-out impossible (unless you're the Hulk, you aren't going to be able to one-arm bench press a several hundred lb/in bar very far so you can get the second endlink stud into the hole with the other hand).
Ramps would be a really good investment, and push come to shove you can make your own from varying lengths of two-by lumber spiked/bolted together and beveled where you'd drive up on them. Cheap, heavy, and utterly reliable.
Norm
Ramps would be a really good investment, and push come to shove you can make your own from varying lengths of two-by lumber spiked/bolted together and beveled where you'd drive up on them. Cheap, heavy, and utterly reliable.
Norm
But being the Hulk I am not too worried. I just wanted to know what to expect.
10-06-2016, 02:09 PM
#8
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
A trick i figured out while working on my suspension was this (Btw you may want to pick up some sway bar bushings while you're at it. I'm guessing those are shot too and just the links won't resolve your problem completely - personal experience). Anyways:
Remove the easier to reach end of the sway bar link that connects to the strut on both sides of the vehicle. To gain better access simply turn the wheels full left or right for each side.
Remove the sway bar bushings brackets on either side under the radiator.
Remove the sway bar with the end links still attached to it.
Now Remove your sway bar links from the sway bar.
Replace your sway bar bushings.
Attach your new links onto the bar and torque to the required 85 ft/lbs. Easy peasy since you aren't crowded by the subframe or control arm now
Reinstall your Sway bar with it's new bushings and end links attached.
Tighten the sway bushing brackets finger tight for now.
Reattached the sway bar links to the strut. This will also be easier because you can align everything since you have play on the sway bar since the bushing brackets are only finger tight.
Torque the sway bar link to strut nuts to 85 ft lbs.
For this last step you can drive up onto a ramp if needed.
Give the sway bar a good shake and wiggle, visually confirm the bushings are properly aligned/centered on the bar and the bushings are aligned in the bushing brackets, now torque the sway bar bushings brackets to 52 ft lbs.
Done!
My method doesn't require ramps and the hardest part would be tightening the sway bar bushing brackets which can be done on ramps if needed.
On ramps, it would be dangerous to turn the wheels.
Remove the easier to reach end of the sway bar link that connects to the strut on both sides of the vehicle. To gain better access simply turn the wheels full left or right for each side.
Remove the sway bar bushings brackets on either side under the radiator.
Remove the sway bar with the end links still attached to it.
Now Remove your sway bar links from the sway bar.
Replace your sway bar bushings.
Attach your new links onto the bar and torque to the required 85 ft/lbs. Easy peasy since you aren't crowded by the subframe or control arm now
Reinstall your Sway bar with it's new bushings and end links attached.
Tighten the sway bushing brackets finger tight for now.
Reattached the sway bar links to the strut. This will also be easier because you can align everything since you have play on the sway bar since the bushing brackets are only finger tight.
Torque the sway bar link to strut nuts to 85 ft lbs.
For this last step you can drive up onto a ramp if needed.
Give the sway bar a good shake and wiggle, visually confirm the bushings are properly aligned/centered on the bar and the bushings are aligned in the bushing brackets, now torque the sway bar bushings brackets to 52 ft lbs.
Done!
My method doesn't require ramps and the hardest part would be tightening the sway bar bushing brackets which can be done on ramps if needed.
On ramps, it would be dangerous to turn the wheels.
Last edited by Derf00; 10-06-2016 at 02:36 PM.
10-07-2016, 06:53 AM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
A trick i figured out while working on my suspension was this (Btw you may want to pick up some sway bar bushings while you're at it. I'm guessing those are shot too and just the links won't resolve your problem completely - personal experience). Anyways:
Remove the easier to reach end of the sway bar link that connects to the strut on both sides of the vehicle. To gain better access simply turn the wheels full left or right for each side.
Remove the sway bar bushings brackets on either side under the radiator.
Remove the sway bar with the end links still attached to it.
Now Remove your sway bar links from the sway bar.
Replace your sway bar bushings.
Attach your new links onto the bar and torque to the required 85 ft/lbs. Easy peasy since you aren't crowded by the subframe or control arm now
Reinstall your Sway bar with it's new bushings and end links attached.
Tighten the sway bushing brackets finger tight for now.
Reattached the sway bar links to the strut. This will also be easier because you can align everything since you have play on the sway bar since the bushing brackets are only finger tight.
Torque the sway bar link to strut nuts to 85 ft lbs.
For this last step you can drive up onto a ramp if needed.
Give the sway bar a good shake and wiggle, visually confirm the bushings are properly aligned/centered on the bar and the bushings are aligned in the bushing brackets, now torque the sway bar bushings brackets to 52 ft lbs.
Done!
My method doesn't require ramps and the hardest part would be tightening the sway bar bushing brackets which can be done on ramps if needed.
On ramps, it would be dangerous to turn the wheels.
Remove the easier to reach end of the sway bar link that connects to the strut on both sides of the vehicle. To gain better access simply turn the wheels full left or right for each side.
Remove the sway bar bushings brackets on either side under the radiator.
Remove the sway bar with the end links still attached to it.
Now Remove your sway bar links from the sway bar.
Replace your sway bar bushings.
Attach your new links onto the bar and torque to the required 85 ft/lbs. Easy peasy since you aren't crowded by the subframe or control arm now
Reinstall your Sway bar with it's new bushings and end links attached.
Tighten the sway bushing brackets finger tight for now.
Reattached the sway bar links to the strut. This will also be easier because you can align everything since you have play on the sway bar since the bushing brackets are only finger tight.
Torque the sway bar link to strut nuts to 85 ft lbs.
For this last step you can drive up onto a ramp if needed.
Give the sway bar a good shake and wiggle, visually confirm the bushings are properly aligned/centered on the bar and the bushings are aligned in the bushing brackets, now torque the sway bar bushings brackets to 52 ft lbs.
Done!
My method doesn't require ramps and the hardest part would be tightening the sway bar bushing brackets which can be done on ramps if needed.
On ramps, it would be dangerous to turn the wheels.
Sounds great. Thank you for the details. That is the kind of description I was looking for.
How important is it to torque the nuts as you indicated? I usually approach the situation as get them as tight as I can. Unless it is something that I could break if I don't it right.
10-07-2016, 01:46 PM
#10
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Sounds great. Thank you for the details. That is the kind of description I was looking for.
How important is it to torque the nuts as you indicated? I usually approach the situation as get them as tight as I can. Unless it is something that I could break if I don't it right.
How important is it to torque the nuts as you indicated? I usually approach the situation as get them as tight as I can. Unless it is something that I could break if I don't it right.
Last edited by Derf00; 10-07-2016 at 01:48 PM.
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