jot

This is a thread of my hot mess I bought. It took me a few months to figure it out.

I should have just went to Steeda to figure it out.

My car was only lowered 1-2 inches and it was wigging out the EPAS and stability computers. Adjustable front mounts for the struts and an alignment with a machine for lowered cars fixed the steering issues and the car went from a hot mess to a dream to drive.

I consider myself lucky I did not wreck and that was just with a slight angle of the front camber. These new Mustangs with Electric Power Assist Steering and stability computers need to be set up correct for the road. The circumference of the front tires need to also be stock. Not sure about width.

A Mustang shop doing lowered suspensions without an alignment machine is a red flag.

Solved information on last page..........

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...t-s-alive.html




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jot

And if you ever see a car that looks like the springs were outright removed stay away. Itis usually an old car driven by a young kid and give them space. They need it cause it is a hot mess with less than half the tire's tread gripping the road. They will probably have a blowout when the tire hits the car wheel well.

I have seen this on more than one occasion. And if it is wet double the distance from them.

Norm Peterson

Can you narrow this range down a bit? 1" is at most only a moderate amount of lowering, while 2" is out there in extreme-land.


I hadn't considered the strut mount condition before, but I can see if they were in bad enough shape that the EPAS would react, and the lack of firm camber control could easily cause wandering or pulling all by itself whether the steering was EPAS or HPAS (hydraulic).


Yes and no. You don't absolutely need the $$$$$ alignment rack to measure alignment angles closely enough, but in the absence of the fancy equipment you do want to have a warm and fuzzy feeling that the tech doing the work has a much better understanding of alignment principles than "put it in the green, call it good, send it out the door".



Steeda HD mounts, right? FYI, these mounts use O-rings for sealing purposes (2 per mount in mine), which are pretty easy to replace if they show any damage if/when you replace the struts. Re-lube the bearings at the same time.

There should be at least a 3% tolerance on tire OD (wheel revs per mile, actually) for ABS reasons, and I think as a practical matter it's more than that. Since AdvanceTrak is piggy-backed on top of ABS, it can't be any fussier about tire diameter than the ABS is. And I can tell you that having tires that are 1.3" shorter than the stock 235/50-18's doesn't involve any ABS intervention up to or slightly beyond 1g braking, at speeds anywhere from 70-ish to beyond 100 mph (from actual track day datalogs).


Norm