Topless Stang

I took my car in to get a tire patched and was told I need to replace the outer tie rods. After laughing at their estimate I priced the parts and researched a bit to see if it was a hard process. To my surprise and delight the cost of the parts and the labor involved seemed like something I could do easily.

Now here's my question....

If I am replacing outer should I also replace the inner pair? The original parts have just over 80k.

Derf00

Not typically. The outers wear out significantly faster because they get a lot more articulation than the inners. Also, to replace the inners requires a specialty tool, an Inner Tie Rod tool. you can probably rent it from your local auto parts zone. Me, i'd probably just buy an inexpensive one to keep and use on our other cars.

If you want to check the inners, there are tons of vids on youtube for this but you can always just jack the wheel up and before you remove the wheel for a visual, you can grab the tire on the left/right hand side and wiggle it front to back. If there's play, that means one or both of the tie rods on that side are worn.

Always get an alignment after you replace tie rods.

Topless Stang

Awesome linkage...much appreciated! My thing is I know the outer is bad, so since I'll be down there maybe I should just replace it all to avoid having to potentially go back and have to do the inners in 6 months to a year. With that in mind I was also thinking of replacing/upgrading the control arms too with Ford Performance Front Lower Control Arms.....this way I should be good for a while since I picked up a new car and my stang is going to be a garage queen. original parts have just over 80k.

Urambo Tauro

Up here in the rust belt we sometimes like to replace the inners and outers together just because we can't get the old ones to come apart haha.

Derf00

With that line of thinking, you could/should. I'm typically of the same mentality. Go in and do it once so you don't have to do it a second time a short while later.

If i'm replacing a timing cover gasket for example I'll replace the timing set just because i"m already in there. Or if I do the water pump, I'll do the radiator and all the hoses if they haven't been done (just did that with our Escape)

Since you are considering the control arms, you may as well do the stabilizer links and the sway bar bushings. I'd recommend upgrading the links to the ones from a 2010+ mustang (PN MEF201). The 2010+ Ford links have a finer thread so they hold the torque better and a larger stud nut to hold the stud steady while you torque the removable nut to 86 ft/lbs. Be sure to get the replacement nuts that go with the links as they do not come included with the new links. Some parts places only list the updated part number (Ford MEF201)

The Ford Racing Control arms are a good upgrade to our cars. Higher durometer rubber for better cornering stability and a 1mm larger diameter ball joint stud to help decrease the wear from the higher durometer.

Topless Stang

Awesome-sauce. I already upgraded m sways a while back and put some good poly bushings on. I want to say I did it about 2 years ago, but the cqr sat for a year after that...so I think they're still fine. Thanks for the added input, my mind is now made up! What started off as a $50 outer tie rod end replacement has morphed into $1000 4 new tires, control arms, inner & outer tie rods & alignment....but this is always the case isn't it?

ghunt

IMO if the outers were bad I would just do those...but that's mostly because replacing the inners involves so much more work than just doing the outers.

I've also owned a couple of vehicles where I replaced the outers at least once and never had to touch the inners.

Derf00

yeah, outers are super easy. The inners aren't so bad on these from what I've seen because of the RWD. It's when you're crammed in there with FWD or AWD axles that makes it a pain.

Derf00

Good deal on the poly's, how often do you grease them, or have you? My concern with Poly bushings in suspension is squeaking... Yes, they should be fine if they are only two years old and you aren't tracking the car.

Had my $60 water pump morph into a nearly $450 parts job on the Escape. Radiator, new OEM hoses from the reservoir (2), top/bottom OEM hoses from the radiator, thermostat and seal, OEM water pump hoses (the Escape 3.0L's are a puzzle of hoses), valve cover gaskets with Water Pump Cam seal and retainer, heater hoses from the Water pump, Oh and new cooling fans. The old ones were getting noisy. Found complete brand new Ford OEM radiator shroud assembly with fans and blades for only $100. Normally runs like $200+ but one of the blades had to be swapped with my old stock one cos it was really warped and coulda hit the radiator.

wcgman

Trick my father in law taught me was mark / measure the length of the tie rod before you touch it. Then set the new one as close as possible to the old one before installing. Makes driving to alignment shop a much easier experience afterwards.