2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
10-06-2013, 12:47 PM
#141
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Alaska
Posts: 7
Ok so what have we all learned here.
1 Ford takes 3 years to resolve a problem, one that had to be expensive for those suffering from it. A Design Flaw I'm sure
2 heat and cold in excessive amounts impact battery life. To hot and the plates warp shorting the battery. Too cold with equalize (the point at which the alternator is charging at the rate of draw with all ancillaries running) set around 2600 rpm your never charging in the deep of winter. Note this could also be an issue in heavy traffic with AC and everything on.
3 I will be waiting at least 3 years after the release of the 2015 Mustang to consider replacing one of my 2006's! I cant vote on their board, they don't resolve my complaints in a timely manner and I can vote with my money.
1 Ford takes 3 years to resolve a problem, one that had to be expensive for those suffering from it. A Design Flaw I'm sure
2 heat and cold in excessive amounts impact battery life. To hot and the plates warp shorting the battery. Too cold with equalize (the point at which the alternator is charging at the rate of draw with all ancillaries running) set around 2600 rpm your never charging in the deep of winter. Note this could also be an issue in heavy traffic with AC and everything on.
3 I will be waiting at least 3 years after the release of the 2015 Mustang to consider replacing one of my 2006's! I cant vote on their board, they don't resolve my complaints in a timely manner and I can vote with my money.
10-08-2013, 06:26 AM
#142
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 44
Insulation Sleeve Located
I did fully charge the new battery using a 2 amp/ 50 amp Sears charger then topping it off with a Battery Tender - took about 24 hours. I have a dated Sunpro digital meter but I'm not sure if it reads mAH or not - I'll take a look at it when I get home.
I was quite surprised to find I only had to reset the clock as everything else was 'remembered'; this after having no battery installed for about 24 hours.
10-11-2013, 02:38 AM
#145
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,149
Bought a new Mustang GT in August. Twice the car has been laid up for two - three weeks in my garage while I was away working and the Battery Died both times. The first time she was locked up and the anti theft system was enabled. Thought maybe that may have been the problem. Second time she was in the garage but the anti theft system was disabled. Didn't really make a difference. Anybody else have this problem or know what may be causing this? Would like to hear from you if so.
Thanks,
Rhonda
Thanks,
Rhonda
My '08 does the same thing, so whatever is the issue is present in the '08 cars too! Dealer said it was a normal occurrence when not started for 3 weeks or more. ???? Buy a good trickle charger that won't overcharge the battery and worry about bigger issues in life! Letting a battery get low is a bad deal anyhow, so why fight it! On my classic cars I put a connector between the battery and the cable that has a switch than can be turned easily to disconnect the battery in a second. It might be harder to put one on a modern car because of the battery cables. Another answer is drive your car more! I've got an '08 with 10K miles.... that's the problem!
Last edited by Mr. D; 10-11-2013 at 02:44 AM.
10-11-2013, 02:44 AM
#146
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,149
Bought a new Mustang GT in August. Twice the car has been laid up for two - three weeks in my garage while I was away working and the Battery Died both times. The first time she was locked up and the anti theft system was enabled. Thought maybe that may have been the problem. Second time she was in the garage but the anti theft system was disabled. Didn't really make a difference. Anybody else have this problem or know what may be causing this? Would like to hear from you if so.
Thanks,
Rhonda
Thanks,
Rhonda
10-11-2013, 12:44 PM
#147
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Alaska
Posts: 7
Ok I've been over this a few times. 3 batteries in 3 years. I drive all year round in Anchorage AK (no that's Alaska!) so what have I learned.
Under drive pulleys are a negative solution. Stock pulleys have equalize between 2200 & 2600 RPM (check your speed at those revs, my V6's are around 60+ MPH) not exactly legal or safe in town during the winter. So you may not actually be charging you battery all the time.
Added a remote start, alarm and iPod connection to one. Battery died so I had the installer test for reason. Nothing they did caused the problem but the power braking system was drawing 1.5A! with the key in my pocket! Ford initially said they did not have a problem because of the non stock additions. Advised them this was already tested and not an issue. Their answer to the 1.5A draw was to replace the battery.
I have turned off the stereo before the engine ever since the first battery based on others experience. One had the 6 disc unit shuffling the disks with the car turned off in the garage. Heard a funny noise so investigated.
Another reported that when the battery died it dropped the windows. Not happy if that happens!
Although Ford has not admitted it there is a problem. It may relate to the new No Lead solder being used. This solder comes with a feature that can destroy electronics. It creates whiskers that can cause shorts.
Under drive pulleys are a negative solution. Stock pulleys have equalize between 2200 & 2600 RPM (check your speed at those revs, my V6's are around 60+ MPH) not exactly legal or safe in town during the winter. So you may not actually be charging you battery all the time.
Added a remote start, alarm and iPod connection to one. Battery died so I had the installer test for reason. Nothing they did caused the problem but the power braking system was drawing 1.5A! with the key in my pocket! Ford initially said they did not have a problem because of the non stock additions. Advised them this was already tested and not an issue. Their answer to the 1.5A draw was to replace the battery.
I have turned off the stereo before the engine ever since the first battery based on others experience. One had the 6 disc unit shuffling the disks with the car turned off in the garage. Heard a funny noise so investigated.
Another reported that when the battery died it dropped the windows. Not happy if that happens!
Although Ford has not admitted it there is a problem. It may relate to the new No Lead solder being used. This solder comes with a feature that can destroy electronics. It creates whiskers that can cause shorts.
11-05-2013, 02:16 PM
#148
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 44
Sleeve Arrived
Left home on 10/5 and arrived back home on 11/2. Picked up new sleeve from dealer on 11/4; was told it was a freebee - they get my vote every time! They have a '14 Black on Black GT500 on the showroom floor I'm absolutely smitten by also.
Driving home from the plant on 11/2 I noticed the speedo wasn't working - stuck on zero - odo, cruise and everything else working properly. Did some research and found out there was a higher than average failure rate of the gauge 'stepper motors' for this model year.
Further research found I could have the cluster 'rebuilt' with a lifetime warranty for less than $200, including shipping. Shipped it off yesterday but I'm leaving home again on the 9th so I may not see it for awhile.
The next item will be to get a couple of interior upholstery (drooping headliner and leatherette material on door coming off) issues corrected. Will look around here for a gauge cluster thread to see what's being stated.
Driving home from the plant on 11/2 I noticed the speedo wasn't working - stuck on zero - odo, cruise and everything else working properly. Did some research and found out there was a higher than average failure rate of the gauge 'stepper motors' for this model year.
Further research found I could have the cluster 'rebuilt' with a lifetime warranty for less than $200, including shipping. Shipped it off yesterday but I'm leaving home again on the 9th so I may not see it for awhile.
The next item will be to get a couple of interior upholstery (drooping headliner and leatherette material on door coming off) issues corrected. Will look around here for a gauge cluster thread to see what's being stated.
11-08-2013, 04:58 PM
#149
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 44
Insulation Sleeve Installed
Everyone remember: Negative cable off first - negative cable on last.
Door upholstery and headliner issues next.
09-15-2014, 12:40 PM
#150
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 44
I'm Back!
This thread has been going for quite awhile and I last posted to it nearly a year ago.
My '05 GT w/auto has just 16k miles and has experienced an intermittent parasitic power loss since new. I'm the second owner since 6k miles; first owner reported the issue too. I rarely drive the car as I travel for weeks at a time for employment. Replaced the original battery last year with the largest of the 4 Motorcraft batteries recommended for this car, depending on the options.
Car has been mostly reliable with the rare 'no start' due to a dead battery. After an unexpected 'no start' last week (dead battery - 5.9v) I finally got around to connecting a multimeter to check for parasitic loss. I first connected the hot battery to lower the windows and drew substantial fire from the connection. I disconnected the battery (positive cable) and connected my multimeter and read an astounding 1.6a! Everything was off, doors closed and trunk light off. Ford states that only 50ma max is acceptable.
I pulled every fuse, circuit breaker and the instrument cluster, coming to the following results:
High Current Box (under the hood)
30a fuse in #67 position: SJB #4 (whatever that is?) Instrument Panel Fuse Box - draw dropped by 30ma when fuse pulled.
Low Current Box (behind RH kick panel)
10a fuse in #8 position: Cluster, Data Link Connector (DLC) - again, draw dropped by 30ma when fuse pulled.
Instrument Cluster: again, draw dropped by 30ma when cluster pulled.
Thinking these 30ma draws are normal and within the 50ma limit. But what could be drawing 1.3a? I noticed when I reconnected the battery there was no visible fire during contact. Hmmm.
A possible clue? Whenever I reinstall a fresh battery after a near complete discharge (like last week) the Shaker 500 radio comes on as soon as I turn the key. I always turn the radio off manually before shutting down the car as recommended.
All thoughts appreciated.
This thread has been going for quite awhile and I last posted to it nearly a year ago.
My '05 GT w/auto has just 16k miles and has experienced an intermittent parasitic power loss since new. I'm the second owner since 6k miles; first owner reported the issue too. I rarely drive the car as I travel for weeks at a time for employment. Replaced the original battery last year with the largest of the 4 Motorcraft batteries recommended for this car, depending on the options.
Car has been mostly reliable with the rare 'no start' due to a dead battery. After an unexpected 'no start' last week (dead battery - 5.9v) I finally got around to connecting a multimeter to check for parasitic loss. I first connected the hot battery to lower the windows and drew substantial fire from the connection. I disconnected the battery (positive cable) and connected my multimeter and read an astounding 1.6a! Everything was off, doors closed and trunk light off. Ford states that only 50ma max is acceptable.
I pulled every fuse, circuit breaker and the instrument cluster, coming to the following results:
High Current Box (under the hood)
30a fuse in #67 position: SJB #4 (whatever that is?) Instrument Panel Fuse Box - draw dropped by 30ma when fuse pulled.
Low Current Box (behind RH kick panel)
10a fuse in #8 position: Cluster, Data Link Connector (DLC) - again, draw dropped by 30ma when fuse pulled.
Instrument Cluster: again, draw dropped by 30ma when cluster pulled.
Thinking these 30ma draws are normal and within the 50ma limit. But what could be drawing 1.3a? I noticed when I reconnected the battery there was no visible fire during contact. Hmmm.
A possible clue? Whenever I reinstall a fresh battery after a near complete discharge (like last week) the Shaker 500 radio comes on as soon as I turn the key. I always turn the radio off manually before shutting down the car as recommended.
All thoughts appreciated.