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2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery

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Old 10-06-2013, 12:47 PM   #141
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Ok so what have we all learned here.
1 Ford takes 3 years to resolve a problem, one that had to be expensive for those suffering from it. A Design Flaw I'm sure
2 heat and cold in excessive amounts impact battery life. To hot and the plates warp shorting the battery. Too cold with equalize (the point at which the alternator is charging at the rate of draw with all ancillaries running) set around 2600 rpm your never charging in the deep of winter. Note this could also be an issue in heavy traffic with AC and everything on.
3 I will be waiting at least 3 years after the release of the 2015 Mustang to consider replacing one of my 2006's! I cant vote on their board, they don't resolve my complaints in a timely manner and I can vote with my money.
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:26 AM   #142
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Default Insulation Sleeve Located

Quote:
Originally Posted by Art161 View Post
7R3Z-10A687-A.

I'm a skeptical person. Perhaps the dealer said you didn't need one because there was none in stock, and the dealer wanted to make the battery sale. My sleeve had to be ordered because the dealer didn't have the part in stock.
Thanks for your help. My local dealer located one with your part number and it's on the way; nearly $35 with tax. I won't be home until about the end of the month and will install it then - hoping my new battery won't be dead either as I didn't bother to check for parasitic loss when I installed it.

I did fully charge the new battery using a 2 amp/ 50 amp Sears charger then topping it off with a Battery Tender - took about 24 hours. I have a dated Sunpro digital meter but I'm not sure if it reads mAH or not - I'll take a look at it when I get home.

I was quite surprised to find I only had to reset the clock as everything else was 'remembered'; this after having no battery installed for about 24 hours.
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:37 AM   #143
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:55 PM   #144
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good stuff I hope this really helps
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:38 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhondaw View Post
Bought a new Mustang GT in August. Twice the car has been laid up for two - three weeks in my garage while I was away working and the Battery Died both times. The first time she was locked up and the anti theft system was enabled. Thought maybe that may have been the problem. Second time she was in the garage but the anti theft system was disabled. Didn't really make a difference. Anybody else have this problem or know what may be causing this? Would like to hear from you if so.

Thanks,
Rhonda
The only nice person at my Ford dealer is named Rhonda! So when I call them..... wait for it..... wait for it....I say, "Help me Rhonda... help, help me Rhonda!" (The chorus from an old Beach Boys Tune that the old guys will remember..... sorry... apologies! LOL!)

My '08 does the same thing, so whatever is the issue is present in the '08 cars too! Dealer said it was a normal occurrence when not started for 3 weeks or more. ???? Buy a good trickle charger that won't overcharge the battery and worry about bigger issues in life! Letting a battery get low is a bad deal anyhow, so why fight it! On my classic cars I put a connector between the battery and the cable that has a switch than can be turned easily to disconnect the battery in a second. It might be harder to put one on a modern car because of the battery cables. Another answer is drive your car more! I've got an '08 with 10K miles.... that's the problem!
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Last edited by Mr. D; 10-11-2013 at 02:44 AM.
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:44 AM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhondaw View Post
Bought a new Mustang GT in August. Twice the car has been laid up for two - three weeks in my garage while I was away working and the Battery Died both times. The first time she was locked up and the anti theft system was enabled. Thought maybe that may have been the problem. Second time she was in the garage but the anti theft system was disabled. Didn't really make a difference. Anybody else have this problem or know what may be causing this? Would like to hear from you if so.

Thanks,
Rhonda
My '08 does the same thing, so whatever is the issue is present in the '08 cars too! Dealer said it was a normal occurrence when not started for 3 weeks or more. ???? Buy a good trickle charger that won't overcharge the battery and worry about bigger issues in life! Letting a battery get low is a bad deal anyhow, so why fight it! On my classic cars I put a connector between the battery and the cable that has a switch than can be turned easily to disconnect the battery in a second. It might be harder to put one on a modern car because of the battery cables. Another answer is drive your car more! I've got an '08 with 10K miles.... that's the problem!
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:44 PM   #147
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Ok I've been over this a few times. 3 batteries in 3 years. I drive all year round in Anchorage AK (no that's Alaska!) so what have I learned.
Under drive pulleys are a negative solution. Stock pulleys have equalize between 2200 & 2600 RPM (check your speed at those revs, my V6's are around 60+ MPH) not exactly legal or safe in town during the winter. So you may not actually be charging you battery all the time.
Added a remote start, alarm and iPod connection to one. Battery died so I had the installer test for reason. Nothing they did caused the problem but the power braking system was drawing 1.5A! with the key in my pocket! Ford initially said they did not have a problem because of the non stock additions. Advised them this was already tested and not an issue. Their answer to the 1.5A draw was to replace the battery.
I have turned off the stereo before the engine ever since the first battery based on others experience. One had the 6 disc unit shuffling the disks with the car turned off in the garage. Heard a funny noise so investigated.
Another reported that when the battery died it dropped the windows. Not happy if that happens!
Although Ford has not admitted it there is a problem. It may relate to the new No Lead solder being used. This solder comes with a feature that can destroy electronics. It creates whiskers that can cause shorts.
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Old 11-05-2013, 02:16 PM   #148
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Default Sleeve Arrived

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Originally Posted by Art161 View Post
Left home on 10/5 and arrived back home on 11/2. Picked up new sleeve from dealer on 11/4; was told it was a freebee - they get my vote every time! They have a '14 Black on Black GT500 on the showroom floor I'm absolutely smitten by also.

Driving home from the plant on 11/2 I noticed the speedo wasn't working - stuck on zero - odo, cruise and everything else working properly. Did some research and found out there was a higher than average failure rate of the gauge 'stepper motors' for this model year.

Further research found I could have the cluster 'rebuilt' with a lifetime warranty for less than $200, including shipping. Shipped it off yesterday but I'm leaving home again on the 9th so I may not see it for awhile.

The next item will be to get a couple of interior upholstery (drooping headliner and leatherette material on door coming off) issues corrected. Will look around here for a gauge cluster thread to see what's being stated.
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:58 PM   #149
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Default Insulation Sleeve Installed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Art161 View Post
7R3Z-10A687-A.

I'm a skeptical person. Perhaps the dealer said you didn't need one because there was none in stock, and the dealer wanted to make the battery sale. My sleeve had to be ordered because the dealer didn't have the part in stock.
Installed correct insulation sleeve today along with the overhauled instrument cluster.

Everyone remember: Negative cable off first - negative cable on last.

Door upholstery and headliner issues next.
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:40 PM   #150
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I'm Back!

This thread has been going for quite awhile and I last posted to it nearly a year ago.

My '05 GT w/auto has just 16k miles and has experienced an intermittent parasitic power loss since new. I'm the second owner since 6k miles; first owner reported the issue too. I rarely drive the car as I travel for weeks at a time for employment. Replaced the original battery last year with the largest of the 4 Motorcraft batteries recommended for this car, depending on the options.

Car has been mostly reliable with the rare 'no start' due to a dead battery. After an unexpected 'no start' last week (dead battery - 5.9v) I finally got around to connecting a multimeter to check for parasitic loss. I first connected the hot battery to lower the windows and drew substantial fire from the connection. I disconnected the battery (positive cable) and connected my multimeter and read an astounding 1.6a! Everything was off, doors closed and trunk light off. Ford states that only 50ma max is acceptable.

I pulled every fuse, circuit breaker and the instrument cluster, coming to the following results:


High Current Box (under the hood)

30a fuse in #67 position: SJB #4 (whatever that is?) Instrument Panel Fuse Box - draw dropped by 30ma when fuse pulled.


Low Current Box (behind RH kick panel)

10a fuse in #8 position: Cluster, Data Link Connector (DLC) - again, draw dropped by 30ma when fuse pulled.


Instrument Cluster: again, draw dropped by 30ma when cluster pulled.


Thinking these 30ma draws are normal and within the 50ma limit. But what could be drawing 1.3a? I noticed when I reconnected the battery there was no visible fire during contact. Hmmm.

A possible clue? Whenever I reinstall a fresh battery after a near complete discharge (like last week) the Shaker 500 radio comes on as soon as I turn the key. I always turn the radio off manually before shutting down the car as recommended.

All thoughts appreciated.
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:39 PM   #151
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I'm still here!

Random questions, thoughts, comments, whatever:

Are you driving the car right before you begin your testing? You need to activate various modules by driving (Ford suggests at least five minutes at no less than 35 mph).

Are you then letting the car sit with the key off for at least 40 minutes before taking your current readings? Some circuits can take that long to power down.

It wasn't clear to me whether you removed all of the fuses and only the ones you mentioned caused a current drop. You're going to need to check all of them.

The TOTAL parasitic draw should not exceed 50 mA. If you have several circuits that are EACH drawing 30 mA, then the total is more than 50 mA.

Don't forget that not all circuits are fused.

Check for bad grounds. Edit: Also check the positive battery cable for good connections, and also for corrosion. The bad battery was probably offgassing a lot. Corrosion could be hiding in the cable, close to the battery end and a bit under the insulation.

An internal short in the alternator could cause excess parasitic draw.

Good luck!
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Last edited by Art161; 09-16-2014 at 12:20 AM. Reason: Additional thought
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:49 AM   #152
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Default Hi!

Thanks again for another informed response. Yes, I did pull ALL of the circuit breakers AND fuses. No, I didn't drive the car beforehand. Battery cables look good and all obvious ground connections look good too.

I need to go to the store later and will retest per your recommendations.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Art161 View Post
I'm still here!

Random questions, thoughts, comments, whatever:

Are you driving the car right before you begin your testing? You need to activate various modules by driving (Ford suggests at least five minutes at no less than 35 mph).

Are you then letting the car sit with the key off for at least 40 minutes before taking your current readings? Some circuits can take that long to power down.

It wasn't clear to me whether you removed all of the fuses and only the ones you mentioned caused a current drop. You're going to need to check all of them.

The TOTAL parasitic draw should not exceed 50 mA. If you have several circuits that are EACH drawing 30 mA, then the total is more than 50 mA.

Don't forget that not all circuits are fused.

Check for bad grounds. Edit: Also check the positive battery cable for good connections, and also for corrosion. The bad battery was probably offgassing a lot. Corrosion could be hiding in the cable, close to the battery end and a bit under the insulation.

An internal short in the alternator could cause excess parasitic draw.

Good luck!
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Old 09-16-2014, 04:55 PM   #153
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Default Tested again.

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Originally Posted by Invective View Post
Thanks again for another informed response. Yes, I did pull ALL of the circuit breakers AND fuses. No, I didn't drive the car beforehand. Battery cables look good and all obvious ground connections look good too.

I need to go to the store later and will retest per your recommendations.
Art161,

Just retested per your recommendations and came up with the following:

With the selector set at 10a, the meter starts at a rapidly fluctuating 1.65 and moves down to a non-fluctuating .10. When I turn the selector to 200m it reads 1.0 and when I turn the selector to 20m it reads .10. I know .1a is 100 milliamps but don't know what to make of the rest of it.

A recommendation in another forum stated to unplug the alternator but I don't see an easy way to do this as it sits up under the intake manifold!

All thoughts welcome.
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Old 09-16-2014, 07:13 PM   #154
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Default Update:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Invective View Post
Art161,

Just retested per your recommendations and came up with the following:

With the selector set at 10a, the meter starts at a rapidly fluctuating 1.65 and moves down to a non-fluctuating .10. When I turn the selector to 200m it reads 1.0 and when I turn the selector to 20m it reads .10. I know .1a is 100 milliamps but don't know what to make of the rest of it.

A recommendation in another forum stated to unplug the alternator but I don't see an easy way to do this as it sits up under the intake manifold!

All thoughts welcome.
Art161,

Update:

Meter actually fluctuated between .09a and .1a for about 40-45 minutes before dropping to zero in all amp and all three ma settings. Thinking this means I have no 'parasitic draw' issue? Reconnected meter twice to verify.

I've been sloppy in the past about connecting the battery cables - could this be the cause? Love this car - grinned the whole time I drove it today as well as everyday in my possession.
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:03 PM   #155
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I've never heard before that these cars have 0 mA parasitic draw. There are many circuits that are powered down, but still have some current draw. The lowest I've heard is about 20mA. Mine was measured as 40 mA.

Can you try a different meter for your measurements?
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Old 09-17-2014, 07:48 AM   #156
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Default Meter timed out?

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Originally Posted by Art161 View Post
I've never heard before that these cars have 0 mA parasitic draw. There are many circuits that are powered down, but still have some current draw. The lowest I've heard is about 20mA. Mine was measured as 40 mA.

Can you try a different meter for your measurements?

No other meter readily available. Thinking my meter timed out? Thinking there should be some draw obviously. I'll go with the last known reading: 100ma. Looking for an easy way to check the alternator without removing the intake manifold.
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:19 AM   #157
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No other meter readily available. Thinking my meter timed out? Thinking there should be sme draw obviously. I'll go with the last known reading: 100ma. Looking for an easy way to check the alternator without removing the intake manifold.
Update: Meter probe cable was plugged into the incorrect receptacle. Final meter reading after about 40 minutes was 30mA. Reconnected battery, set clock and have had no 'dead battery issues since - car sits for up to 4 weeks at a time. Still wondering if an incorrect battery hookup sequence causes something (smart module?) not to power down correctly and kill the battery over time?
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:19 AM
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