2010 Dyno'd with Roush exhaust

[BL00DSH0T]

Went to AzDynoChips to get me a baseline for the mods I will be doing. I installed a Roush exhaust last weekend and it sounds really good. I made 284whp & 294wtq I should have Steeda Charge Motion Deletes, C&L Intake, SCT X3 and Eibach Pro-kit Springs coming as soon as I find someone that makes good tunes and has the C&L intake in stock. Herb

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[Biceps]

The 2010 GT's are advertised as having 315 HP. Yet you are dynoing in at 284? What am I missing?

[BL00DSH0T]

Originally Posted by Biceps

The 2010 GT's are advertised as having 315 HP. Yet you are dynoing in at 284? What am I missing?

315hp is at the flywheel, 284 is at the rear wheels.

[guitarist4life]

Nice numbers. However, the car is just too heavy for my liking. Any other mods you plan on doing? Cam? Intake?

[Biceps]

Originally Posted by BL00DSH0T

315hp is at the flywheel, 284 is at the rear wheels.

Apologies then for the newbish question, but what does fly wheel mean? Is that "front wheels" or is flywheel the accumulated HP between front and rear wheels?

[Tylus]

284 RWHP is pretty good for a stock car. too bad you didn't get a run in before the exhaust.

what are your eventual HP goals?

Originally Posted by Biceps

Apologies then for the newbish question, but what does fly wheel mean? Is that "front wheels" or is flywheel the accumulated HP between front and rear wheels?

joking?

or

serious?

Flywheel is a huge gear that is bolted to the motor crankshaft. It has teeth on the entire edge.

there is a machined surface on the center of the flywheel. this is what the clutch "grabs"...and in turn spins the tranny.


when you read HP/TQ #'s from a Manufacturer, you are getting their "Crank" HP/TQ.


Crank HP is an okay #...but the # that really matters is Rear Wheel HP (RWHP). Each car experiences a certain amount of drivetrain loss. All those rotation parts/pieces eat up a little bit here and there.


as a rule of thumb, 2005+ Mustangs experience about a 15% drivetrain loss...and this can be further agravated since there are various Dyno types. Some read significantly higher than others.



So the OP layed down 284 RWHP. which is quite good actually. simple tuning and he should be damn near 300 RWHP.

but that was on a Dynojet...so i wonder what it would have been on a Mustang Dyno which are typically a good bit lower

the 15% rule say he should have about 267-270 RWHP...which is nearly what Bullitt's like mine consistently lay down when stock (same HP levels as a 2010)

I'm fairly certain that with a Mustang Dyno, those numbers would be in the 270(ish) range.

and to make it more confusing, you have correction factors.

they correct for altitude, heat, humidity...luckily these correction factors (SAE) are pretty reliable...people have been using them for years, and have them pretty well nailed down to a science.

[BL00DSH0T]

I usually do a completely stock baseline, but I didn't get a chance.

I don't really have a HP goal. I do plan on eventually getting a blower sometime next year.
I'll do most of the basic N/A mods and see where I'm at. I don't think I will be touching cams.

[crescent_wrench]

Originally Posted by Tylus

284 RWHP is pretty good for a stock car. too bad you didn't get a run in before the exhaust.

what are your eventual HP goals?

joking?

or

serious?

Flywheel is a huge gear that is bolted to the motor crankshaft. It has teeth on the entire edge.

there is a machined surface on the center of the flywheel. this is what the clutch "grabs"...and in turn spins the tranny.


when you read HP/TQ #'s from a Manufacturer, you are getting their "Crank" HP/TQ.


Crank HP is an okay #...but the # that really matters is Rear Wheel HP (RWHP). Each car experiences a certain amount of drivetrain loss. All those rotation parts/pieces eat up a little bit here and there.


as a rule of thumb, 2005+ Mustangs experience about a 15% drivetrain loss...and this can be further agravated since there are various Dyno types. Some read significantly higher than others.



So the OP layed down 284 RWHP. which is quite good actually. simple tuning and he should be damn near 300 RWHP.

but that was on a Dynojet...so i wonder what it would have been on a Mustang Dyno which are typically a good bit lower

the 15% rule say he should have about 267-270 RWHP...which is nearly what Bullitt's like mine consistently lay down when stock (same HP levels as a 2010)

I'm fairly certain that with a Mustang Dyno, those numbers would be in the 270(ish) range.

and to make it more confusing, you have correction factors.

they correct for altitude, heat, humidity...luckily these correction factors (SAE) are pretty reliable...people have been using them for years, and have them pretty well nailed down to a science.

Outstanding reply!

[Tylus]

Originally Posted by BL00DSH0T

I don't really have a HP goal. I do plan on eventually getting a blower sometime next year.
I'll do most of the basic N/A mods and see where I'm at. I don't think I will be touching cams.

basically my plan...except I'm going to install the Big Mutha Thumper or FRPP Cams first. I want that wild loping idle...and then the 400+ RWHP when I'm playing around.

I'm just looking for a fun street car...so the little bit of HP/TQ loss I'll experience with those cam + blower is acceptable to me. Weird the things we do for a little noise

[AJ_68]

Originally Posted by guitarist4life

Nice numbers. However, the car is just too heavy for my liking.

Do your research.