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A question...I was told this weekend by a guy from my dealership (he's not in the service department) that if I rotate my own tires the TMPS system will not work correctly till I bring it in to have it recalibrated. I don't like the Dealer's torquing system, i.e. a high pressure air gun set to the max so I do my own rotations. Anyone know if he's correct in that I'll need to either have the dealer rotate the tires or at a minimum take the car to them to have the TPMS tire matched?
It's fodder for another thread, but he also said his "oil guy" says that synthetic oil breaks down just as quickly as regular oil so he changes his every 2,000 miles!
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Not sure if they use a different TPMS system on the '10s, but for mine I was able to rotate without needing to recalibrate. Worse case you can always just pick up the calibration tool as they are very cheap and nice to have in the car... think mine was $25 shipped.
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Mods: Edelbrock Supercharger 422RWHP/394RWTQ, CDC convertible bar & Classic Chin, Roush rear springs, GTAs, Steeda Billet LCAs & adj. panhard, CHE anti-squat, Pro5.0 shifter with Hurst stick/knob, RotorPro Rotors, Agent 47 mirrors, Dual Aeroforce gauges, CS69 wheels
I've had the wheels off my Stang and they never threw the TPMS light. On the other hand, the dealership did a balance and they had to recalibrate.
As far as oil is concerned, dino and blends will degrade and the protective packages deplete faster than full synthetic. I wouldn't go beyond 3k miles/6 months on dino or 7k miles/6 months on a blend. Full synthetics are good beyond 10k miles/1 year. Both my Stang and my SUV (tow vehicle) are on 8k-10k mile oil change frequencies, depending on how hard those miles were. I've used this frequency on numerous vehicles that had well over 200,000 miles on them with NO oil related issues.
The guy at your dealership is a dickwad and probably just looking for your business.
I just got my aftermarket wheels in with tpms' installed and the light went on. I was told I will have to get it reset at the dealer for $90 because all four tires were taken out and needs a reset/calibration. $90 sucks, but I found another shop that will calibrate it for me for free, so hopefully they'll stay true to the word "Free"
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2010 Mustang GT Manual + 3.73 gears with lots of mods!
As I understand it, since the TPMS we have on the mustangs does not report individual tire pressure to the driver and simply generates a generic warning, you will not have to re-calibrate them when you rotate the tires (edit: It's possible that FORD changed the system for the 2010's). However, if you change tires to ones which require a higher/lower pressure, then you will have to recalibrate the system.
Thanks everyone for your input. Given there is no individual pressure report on the 2010 I had assumed there would be no need to recalibrate. In any case though, the calibration tool will be a nice to have and to share with my buddies (never hurts to have one up on them I've found!!)
This forum is great, especially for a newbie like me!
2008 here and my car does not care what corner a wheel is moved to. It did care when I swapped wheels off a 2009 CS. For the 2010s though they use a different stem style sensor. Guess that means when its time for new tires and stems, its off to the dealer?
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2008 manual GT with deluxe trim, FRPP CAI, FRPP GTB Mufflers & 91 Tillman Tune. 3.73 gears, Coast Ultralight Drive-shaft. 18" OEM Polished Bullitts, Webelectric Sequentials, XM built into the Shaker 500. Alarm and Escort 8500.
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