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I just had the FRPP lowering springs put on my 2010 GT. I'm running aftermarket 20"s rims right now. It brought the car down about 1.5"s. It looks perfect and so far the handling is outstanding. It feels very responsive and corners much better.
I went with the FRPP because it seemed like it was the simplest solution to getting a better looking car and also get a nice performance upgrade. With the exception of the Roush stage 1 all the other springs opened the door to having to getting shock/struts, pan hard bar, and camber plates. I might do shocks/struts down the road but I just wanted to take a baby step without throwing everything out of whack.
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The rule is anything over 1.25 inches lower requires an adjustable pan-hard bar. The rear must be centered at all costs because the draftshaft needs that alignment to prevent premature wear of its universal joints...Another thing about adjustable panhard bars, make sure the lock bolts that hold your alignment in place are tight and locked down with loctite because over time they can work their way loose and the bar will make noise.
The FRPP, I'm pretty sure are the same as the Eibach. I might be picking some up pretty soon and do the rest of the suspension later as needed.
I have done many suspensions and never used locktite, even manufacturer manuals don't call for it and I have never seen any suspension parts come loose that was not properly tightened in the first place.
I wouldn't recommend locktite, just torque them right and you will be good.
There are alot of poeple with 1.5" drops that don't need a panhard bar so I'd say the rule of thumb is get one if you need it. This is what I will be doing.
I bought my car last month the dealer installed ford racing spring and that's it just springs the car rides sweet you won't regret it and you'll save $$$ to.
Just my two cents
I just ordered the Ford Racing springs....M-5300-K 1.5" drop.
That's what I have on mine. Dealer installed the fronts while Pascal installed the rears. had the dealer check and they insisted no pan-hard was required but they would take my money if I insisted.
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USAF (Retired) / Gas Turbine Controls Systems Engineer (Current)
Current: 2010 Ford Mustang GT Premium, Grabber Blue, (401A) Premier Interior Char /w Grabber Blue Stripe, 5-Speed, 3.73 rear, Electronic Pkg (Nav), 19" Painted Nickel Luster Wheels, Comfort Pkg, Security Pkg...
Current Mods: FRPP lowering springs, Roush O/R Exhaust, tinted windows, 3M Clear Bra, Headlight / Fog Tint
That's what I have on mine. Dealer installed the fronts while Pascal installed the rears. had the dealer check and they insisted no pan-hard was required but they would take my money if I insisted.
Cool, I figured since most I have talked to had the FRPP springs and no PHB that it would be smart to wait and see if I need it after the install.
Being as anal as I am I'm sure I would notice it if it did right away.
Same here, I am very anal when it comes to my cars. just be prepared that the front needs modifications in order to align after the springs are installed. It took the dealer 2 hours to mod the front suspension parts. They are stamped already where they have to be modded, just not notched from the factory.
__________________
USAF (Retired) / Gas Turbine Controls Systems Engineer (Current)
Current: 2010 Ford Mustang GT Premium, Grabber Blue, (401A) Premier Interior Char /w Grabber Blue Stripe, 5-Speed, 3.73 rear, Electronic Pkg (Nav), 19" Painted Nickel Luster Wheels, Comfort Pkg, Security Pkg...
Current Mods: FRPP lowering springs, Roush O/R Exhaust, tinted windows, 3M Clear Bra, Headlight / Fog Tint
The FRPP, I'm pretty sure are the same as the Eibach. I might be picking some up pretty soon and do the rest of the suspension later as needed.
I have done many suspensions and never used locktite, even manufacturer manuals don't call for it and I have never seen any suspension parts come loose that was not properly tightened in the first place.
I wouldn't recommend locktite, just torque them right and you will be good.
There are alot of poeple with 1.5" drops that don't need a panhard bar so I'd say the rule of thumb is get one if you need it. This is what I will be doing.
The FRPP suspension parts may come loose if they re-use the original fasteners. They are one-time use as they deform. Either use new Ford fasteners or use locktite. My FRPP front roll bar came loose after install by Ford dealer. Then I did some research on the matter and found this out.
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