OEM hood scoop to functional?
#2
There is nothing you can do to make it functional. It is too low and sits in a negative pressure zone. Pressure zones for air intakes are the cowl or base of the windshield and the front grill opening. The top of the hood works much better to get air out of the engine compartment rather than in. If you install a huge scoop way up into the air stream you can build pressure but not flat against the hood.
#3
There is nothing you can do to make it functional. It is too low and sits in a negative pressure zone. Pressure zones for air intakes are the cowl or base of the windshield and the front grill opening. The top of the hood works much better to get air out of the engine compartment rather than in. If you install a huge scoop way up into the air stream you can build pressure but not flat against the hood.
#5
hmm interesting.
Then how come people complain about the scoop being fake? The only way to make one functional is to make it like a pro stock.
So if the hood doesnt provide "ram air" it still would provide cool air...
Then how come people complain about the scoop being fake? The only way to make one functional is to make it like a pro stock.
So if the hood doesnt provide "ram air" it still would provide cool air...
#7
Not to be taken the wrong way, but what credentials to you have to back up your claims about the aerodynamics and functionality of the hood scoop?
#8
www.google.com. Search 'automotive aerodymnamics'. It is your friend.
The majority of the surface of the hood is a NEGATIVE pressure zone....much better suited to "suck" hot air OUT of the engine bay. (as already stated.) Best 'forced cool air' is either front of vehicle or the cowl area between the rear of hood and windshield (as already stated).
If you're feeling froggy, do some research on the Pontic Fiero's aerodynamics. In a nut shell, the design of the radiator causes 'lift' in the front of the vehicle at speeds over 80 mph. There IS a fix for this, but it is custom and requires 'venting' the front hood. Air passing through the radiator is forced UNDER the Fiero between the front wheels, basically pushing the front of the car up off of the road. (I have personnally experienced this on HWY 76 (or is it 77) Toll Road in CA between SanDiego and LA. I was doing about 95mph and was going through a wide left hand corner....there was NO steering at ALL! I let off the accelerator and the car would turn.) "Venting" the hood into the radiator outlet 'box', allows that air to be 'sucked' out from the top and flow over the top of the car...raising this 'lifting phenomenon' speed to approximately 130-140mph. This is w/ only a 1" deep by 10" wide vent.
Fieros aside, there are a LOT of details that go into a vehicle's aerodynamics. Changing just ONE aspect of this, causes changes to others. Just fabricating a flat under-body 'pan' to smooth the underside of the car as much as possible can cut aerodynamic drag considerably. I built an aluminum under-body pan for my Dodge Neon (first Gen) years ago. I sectioned it in three peices so it could be removed. The only testing I did was for MPGs and I GAINED 4 mpg across 3000 miles on the hwy with ONLY changing that ONE thing. I had planned on adding a small front splitter that would extend maybe an inch from the front of the bumper but I never got around to it and my Neon is now gone.
Just food for thought.
EDIT: I would also take 908SSP's avitar as proof of credentials.
The majority of the surface of the hood is a NEGATIVE pressure zone....much better suited to "suck" hot air OUT of the engine bay. (as already stated.) Best 'forced cool air' is either front of vehicle or the cowl area between the rear of hood and windshield (as already stated).
If you're feeling froggy, do some research on the Pontic Fiero's aerodynamics. In a nut shell, the design of the radiator causes 'lift' in the front of the vehicle at speeds over 80 mph. There IS a fix for this, but it is custom and requires 'venting' the front hood. Air passing through the radiator is forced UNDER the Fiero between the front wheels, basically pushing the front of the car up off of the road. (I have personnally experienced this on HWY 76 (or is it 77) Toll Road in CA between SanDiego and LA. I was doing about 95mph and was going through a wide left hand corner....there was NO steering at ALL! I let off the accelerator and the car would turn.) "Venting" the hood into the radiator outlet 'box', allows that air to be 'sucked' out from the top and flow over the top of the car...raising this 'lifting phenomenon' speed to approximately 130-140mph. This is w/ only a 1" deep by 10" wide vent.
Fieros aside, there are a LOT of details that go into a vehicle's aerodynamics. Changing just ONE aspect of this, causes changes to others. Just fabricating a flat under-body 'pan' to smooth the underside of the car as much as possible can cut aerodynamic drag considerably. I built an aluminum under-body pan for my Dodge Neon (first Gen) years ago. I sectioned it in three peices so it could be removed. The only testing I did was for MPGs and I GAINED 4 mpg across 3000 miles on the hwy with ONLY changing that ONE thing. I had planned on adding a small front splitter that would extend maybe an inch from the front of the bumper but I never got around to it and my Neon is now gone.
Just food for thought.
EDIT: I would also take 908SSP's avitar as proof of credentials.
Last edited by Ditty; 11-05-2011 at 11:09 AM.
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