WILECYOT

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum and the mustang world. I came from the import world and I really liked getting fitments perfect. In the import world fitment information is readily available where as in the Mustang world, not so much.

I have found a picture of a Mustang with a set of 18x10.5 +22 all around and the rear offset is a bit too low. It needs probably a +30. I'm going to be stepping it up to a 19x10.5 in the rear and I'm trying to get a better grasp of exactly what rear wheel offset I'll need to sit pretty much flush with the inside of the fender. I don't like the sunk in look.

freyes

Check out the Vorshlag.com blog. He talks about wheel offsets to fit his 2011 Mustang GT. Lots of good information on tires and wheels.

IA Shelby

10.5 wheels would be +47 to +50 on a 285 tire.

For reference Shelby Alcoa is +37 on a 10" wheel on a 275 tire and they are very aggressive.

Entaille

the only 'flush' setup that I've seen where someone actually posted their wheel specs, were 20x10 40 offest rear, 20x9 30 offset front. hope this helps a little. I am going to aim for similar eventually, but wheels are low on my list.

WILECYOT

Yeah, I'm gonna have to see pics. I feel like what a lot of mustang owners from my experience have called flush are in reality tucked. I want to be able to hang a business card between the fender and tire. That's flush.

freyes

Get ready to roll your fenders if this is the type of fitment you are looking for. Remember, tires change shape as you drive your car. Axles move, tires rotate about their axis in several directions. There is always a compromise between the fender-to-tire gap, and the cost of your tires. Gouges in tires are very expensive lessons to learn.



Here is the link to the Vorshlag website on the special tires I referenced earlier (D-Force LTW5). He states that with an 18" x 10.5 wheel, and offset of .43mm will fill the wheel wells. This fellow does NASA and SCCA racing in his mustang, and knows the most meat on the ground helps with cornering and winning your class. Cost is only $309.00 per wheel

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=505

WILECYOT

I've read over those blogs a few times now but I just hate the look of those wheels. I'm not looking to build my car into a track car or do any autocross or track events with it. I'm just wanting to make a little saturday night cruiser. I drive the car to and from work so I'm not going to be able to slam it or anything. Below you will find a picture of the look I'm going for. The rear fitment is WAY too wide and that isn't how wide I want to go but I am really digging the front fitment. The wheels are 18x10.5 +22 to give you an idea of what I"m working with.

WILECYOT

Also, I have no problem rolling or pulling my fenders. I have a fender roller and have rolled MANY cars. Crazy honda owners fit some retarded **** on their cars sometimes.

908ssp

20"x10.5" with a 315/35 don't rub and don't stick out.

WILECYOT

I'm starting to wonder if anyone in the domestic world understand what I mean by offset....

When you buy a wheel it's not just a 20x10.5 wheel and they're all the same. You have a lot of different things to think about, especially when running big brakes. Offset is VERY important when trying to get proper fitment of the wheels in relation to the fender. I know the whole hellaflush thing is retarded, I'm not the biggest fan of it but I do like my wheels to be flush with the fenders. I don't want them to be sunk in an inch, hell I don't want them sunk in ANY at all if I can help it.