RTR Rear Spoiler (broken stud!)
07-21-2013, 08:36 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: OH
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RTR Rear Spoiler (broken stud!)
Installed the RTR rear spoiler yesterday. The install mostly consisted of prying the old spoiler off/removing adhesive. That thing's not going anywhere! Actually putting the RTR spoiler on takes a matter of minutes, peel covering off 3m tape, drop studs through holes in trunk, tighten bolts... The instructions said "Do not over tighten bolts" as the last step. It should be changed to "hand tighten bolts only, do not use a socket/ratchet". This is the first time I have broken a stud on anything! The nut felt like it was still spinning pretty easily, I felt little to no resistance, so I continued to turn, snap! I'm thinking the stud had an issue from the beginning, it was not perfectly straight and they are very thin. Just a warning to anybody if they get this spoiler, do not use a ratchet to torque down the spoiler nut/bolt. Just hand tighten with your 10mm socket attached to the extension. Looks like I'm going to have to get creative here. I am going to try to attach a flat headed bolt to the spoiler with some sort of epoxy, let it dry, attach a washer or 2 and put the nut on very easily. The 2 sided body molding tape is holding just fine in the center of the trunklid, but at the very corner, where the broken stud is, the spoiler is lifting slightly, doesn't help that it's been in the 90's and the spoiler is metal, molding tape is getting hot/less sticky. Any suggestions other than what I am already thinking? The spoiler is so thin where it mounts to the trunk, I think that's my only choice. I could have somebody weld on the bolt, but taking the spoiler off is not an option after removing the stock one. Here's a few pics of what it looks like, and the damage!
The stud broke almost flush with the bottom of the spoiler. I don't really want to try to drill it out at all due to the spoiler being so thin, it may heat up and damage the finish up top... from the looks of the paint being stripped where the nut spins, it must have been pretty tight from the factory bolt, because I swear I felt little resistance while torquing down the new one. Funny thing is, the 1st side went on just fine like a normal bolt, the 2nd side is the one that broke...
The stud broke almost flush with the bottom of the spoiler. I don't really want to try to drill it out at all due to the spoiler being so thin, it may heat up and damage the finish up top... from the looks of the paint being stripped where the nut spins, it must have been pretty tight from the factory bolt, because I swear I felt little resistance while torquing down the new one. Funny thing is, the 1st side went on just fine like a normal bolt, the 2nd side is the one that broke...
Last edited by SchneidyP4.6; 07-21-2013 at 08:44 PM.
07-22-2013, 04:16 PM
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Posts: 209
I will try but highly doubt it will be replaced. I don't really want a replacement, just wanted to warn others while tightening the stud/nut. I'd almost rather get creative than go through removing the spoiler from the trunk, that tape is not fun, shipping etc... Stopped at Lowes and got a few bolts/washers/nuts and epoxy. I might as well try to rig it up as the damage has been done!
07-23-2013, 03:12 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: OH
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I had the stock, small/lip type spoiler. The top of the RTR covers up about 3-4inches of the top of the decklid. I can measure it so you would know if it will cover the CS holes.
*It would cover between 3.75 to 4in on top of the deck lid...
*It would cover between 3.75 to 4in on top of the deck lid...
Last edited by SchneidyP4.6; 07-23-2013 at 06:02 PM.
07-24-2013, 05:56 PM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: OH
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Should I even try JB Weld to attach a new stud/bolt to the spoiler? It says it's good for 2900psi holding strength... Or does anybody know if a steel bolt would be able to be welded to the aluminum spoiler? Not real sure if aluminum can have things welded to it. It's barely noticeable but I know it's there, the one side is lifted just enough so the double sided tape is not contacting the trunk lid.
No problem JimC, I could add a pic too, but it's seriously very close to 4in all the way across the top.
No problem JimC, I could add a pic too, but it's seriously very close to 4in all the way across the top.
07-25-2013, 09:22 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 348
Hi SchneidyP4.6...I think either way, whether you want to replace it or repair it...the correct/best way any professional would look at it...(although a pain in the rear) would require you to completely remove the spoiler in order to gain complete access and make a clean "weld/fix" to the broken stud/bolt...doesnt' look like you have enough room to make a solid, clean "weld" given the fact that you have to do it through the small hole from underneath the trunk. It's gonna get messy!!! Anywho...wishing you the best..
07-26-2013, 04:03 PM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: OH
Posts: 209
You are right, it's coming off tonight. Hopefully I can find somebody who can weld a new bolt on tomorrow. I can supply the bolt and do the prep work, just need somebody with a TIG welder. It might be fun finding an aluminum bolt, steel can't be welded to aluminum. I might just run over to a few local exhaust shops and ask if they can weld it on.
