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Official tell me what you guys are getting in the 1/4

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Old 03-29-2011, 09:47 AM   #21
wrxified
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Originally Posted by Upsh1ft View Post
What the Hotel? Same transmission and rear end and it doesn't work?

Still even if the exploding shaft was a fluke, it still shows that it doesn't offer a lot of headroom for extra power/speed over stock. Better to play it safe I say. Especially up here where our winters are pretty corrosive with the snow/slush/salt in the winter i'm worried that the combination of that plus normal metal fatigue as the shaft ages could lead to some premature failures even with a modest power gain.
No arguments here on the value of it. I think it's a solid next step for people with the basic bolt ons covered. I just think a lot of people instantly associate slicks with driveshafts and safety loops because of the NHRA and IHRA rules. These rules are there mostly because the cars running real racing slicks and upgraded driveshafts are also laying down enough power to get the front wheels in the air.
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:22 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by unclerodg View Post
I think you could get real close to a 13.0 with just the 3.73 and tune.After watching your in-car video, you did some real good shifting but probably "power shifting" would get you another tenth or two.I understand its pretty rough on the car.
^thanks i'm shifting as fast as I can without power shifting the car. Basically my technique is around 6300-6500 rpm I stab the clutch while lifting just enough not to over rev and then slam it into the next gear. If you notice on almost all my videos i'm getting rubber on the 1-2&2-3 shift on a dragstrip with 275 rubber at 20psi
edit coolest thing about 2.73 gears besides good gas mileage? Only shifting twice in the quarter mile&crossing the lights in 3'rd gear not even showing 6k on the tach&going over 101-103 mph lol
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:59 PM   #23
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I love the ancillary topic of rotational weight. The impact can be huge. Sometimes the best tangible example can be in the mountain biking/road biking world, where your power plant is a meager human being. Shaving off just ounces (if not grams) on wheels in that world, and you can really feel it. Seems like that addressing that part (for those really interested in doing everything they can do) is a worthwhile endeavor.
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:11 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by sketchy00 View Post
I love the ancillary topic of rotational weight. The impact can be huge. Sometimes the best tangible example can be in the mountain biking/road biking world, where your power plant is a meager human being. Shaving off just ounces (if not grams) on wheels in that world, and you can really feel it. Seems like that addressing that part (for those really interested in doing everything they can do) is a worthwhile endeavor.
I agree and in many cases doesn't really cost a lot. I saw the DS listed for about $500. A lot of us change out our stock wheels anyway, so that's just a matter of making smarter choices in purchasing wheels and tires that will save weight. Those are probably two of the biggest things you can do.
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by wrxified View Post
No arguments here on the value of it. I think it's a solid next step for people with the basic bolt ons covered. I just think a lot of people instantly associate slicks with driveshafts and safety loops because of the NHRA and IHRA rules. These rules are there mostly because the cars running real racing slicks and upgraded driveshafts are also laying down enough power to get the front wheels in the air.
Heck I think in our case it should be one of those first initial mods along with tune/cai simply for long term reliability/dependability(even more in my part of the world). And the safety loop, regardless if it's overkill or not, should also be included simply to avoir destroying your car like the guy in the vid should the shaft go south.

Also as mentionned after your post, weight savings of just a few pounds would be instantly noticable while driving arround anyways as you have less rotational mass, which means less parasitic drag and more power making it to the wheels. I can also immagine that having lighter wheels will put less of a strain on the shaft + the rotational mass advantage.
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:25 PM   #26
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This email is to confirm the receipt of your recent order from Shaftmasters Inc.

Date Tue Mar 29 14:23:10 PDT 2011
Ship to WRXIFIED
Grandville MI 49418

Bill to Not Available
E-Mail xxxxxxxx@me.com (emailed)
Payment PayPal


Name Code Qty Each Options
-------------------------------------------------------------------
3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft FMS2011V6M35 1 524.99
Ford Mustang 2011 V6
Manual
Subtotal 524.99
Shipping 0.00
Tax 31.50
Total 556.49

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Old 03-29-2011, 04:35 PM   #27
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This email is to confirm the receipt of your recent order from Shaftmasters Inc.

Date Tue Mar 29 14:23:10 PDT 2011
Ship to WRXIFIED
Grandville MI 49418

Bill to Not Available
E-Mail xxxxxxxx@me.com (emailed)
Payment PayPal


Name Code Qty Each Options
-------------------------------------------------------------------
3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft FMS2011V6M35 1 524.99
Ford Mustang 2011 V6
Manual
Subtotal 524.99
Shipping 0.00
Tax 31.50
Total 556.49

sounds promising from the description on the website. and from reading it reminded me, lower rotating mass will improve fuel economy too so there's a bonus to using lighter shaft and wheels. Definately a good price, cheaper than I was expecting, let us know how the install goes :P
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:38 PM   #28
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Will do. This place is well known and they offer a 30 day money back guarantee. They're that confident you'll notice and enjoy the difference. Can't beat that.
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by wrxified View Post
Will do. This place is well known and they offer a 30 day money back guarantee. They're that confident you'll notice and enjoy the difference. Can't beat that.
lets see

-rated up to 600rwhp
-lighter
-better fuel economy
-better accelerative throttle response
-more actual power to the wheels
-Reputable brand
-under 600$

I like this list.

I'd also like to know if ford will b*tch for the warranty, and how easy it is to install
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Upsh1ft View Post
lets see

-rated up to 600rwhp
-lighter
-better fuel economy
-better accelerative throttle response
-more actual power to the wheels
-Reputable brand
-under 600$

I like this list.

I'd also like to know if ford will b*tch for the warranty, and how easy it is to install
Ford won't care about this type of mod. Driveshaft replacement takes about an hour start-to-finish. It's an easy install.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:42 PM   #31
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Nice man I'm so jealous right now If only I could sell my damn stock wheels I would have the cash infusion needed to obtain a shaft of my very own*I know that didn't sound right lol
Seriously though keep us updated on your impressions once you get it and even an install walk through would be cool to Supposedly several places have dropped around two tenths off their 1/4 mile times just by switching to these. This whole weight thing is seriously making me reconsider going to some lightweight 18X8.5" wheels with say 255/45/18 or 255/40/18 tires for a good footprint while staying lighter then stock damn the mod bug
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:37 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3.0Taurass View Post
I'm curious what you guys are getting for ets and traps and how well the 3.7 is responding to mods. If you have several times from adding mods, please include them

Tell me in the following things-

Coupe or convertible?
Transmission?
Gears?
Mods?
et
trap

Thanks!


I think your thread got a little sidetracked. No quarter mile tracks in my area but I just got back from an eighth mile track a couple of hours ago. It was thier opening date, test and tune only. I made three passes, a 9.062, a 9.065 and a 9.067 all in the mid to high 79 MPH range. Looks like a great bracket car huh?

Coupe
Auto
3.55s
Bama 87 Street tune
91 octane fuel

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Old 05-01-2011, 08:50 AM   #33
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I went to the track the week before last. Only made one run. Got my best quarter mile time of 14.06 @ 98.76 mph. I have hit 100 before, back in October, but my ET that night was 14.2. I am still 100 % stock, base Mustang with the 17s, automatic, 3.31. I have had an SCT tuner on order from American Muscle with Bama tunes since April 19th. I called AM Friday after work, they said it will ship out Monday, should arrive Wednesday (I used 2 day shipping). There is another Test ans Tune this Thursday, so far weather forecasts are good. I should make it back out there with a new tune, I'll be sure to give a full report.

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Old 05-01-2011, 02:57 PM   #34
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Pretty darn good, a 9.11 in the eighth still stock, pretty impressive I'd say!!

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Old 05-02-2011, 11:28 PM   #35
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My best is a 13.7 but that was a pretty muggy night at 4000 feet. When I get a chance to get down to lower elevation, like austin or Houston, I should be able to pull a 13.1 or 13.2 pretty easily.
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:53 AM   #36
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There is no test and tune this weekend t Kilkare, they are preparing for Cruisefest which takes place this weekend.

My SCT tuner came in, very easy to use. I loaded in the 93P tune. Man oh man. Took it out for a test drive, the very first time I punched it the rear end wiggle, and it chirped going in to second. I also removed the top speed limiter.
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- (Bought April 2005, traded in June 2010) 2005 Mustang V6 auto Screaming Yellow
MRT single exhaust, K&N drop in, my best 0-60: 6.9, my best 1/4: 15.4 @ 90mph

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Old 05-05-2011, 01:53 AM
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