WORKISSLOW

here is write up on the install of the shaftmaster,

http://v6mustangperformance.com/modi...um-driveshaft/

I noticed he says he had to have his pinon angle adjusted after the new DS was installed? I am guessin that had to do with lowering his car in another mod.

and he also Dynoed the gains at 9 HP and 5 Ft/lbs.

Here is an install thread on the BMR safety hoop
http://v6mustangperformance.com/modi...-installation/

robinsonda1

Ummm, I did and the question remains, why are these drive shafts so weak?

freyes

The driveshafts are not weak, but have either lower or higher critical speeds. Here is an excerpt from an article I wrote on this subject:

"Critical Speed

Critical speed is the speed at which a spinning shaft will become unstable. This is one of the single largest factors in driveshaft selection. When the whirling frequency and the natural frequency coincide, any vibrations will be multiplied. So much that the shaft may self destruct. Another way to think of this is that if a shaft naturally vibrates at 130 times a second, and one point on the shaft passes through 0 degrees 130 times a second (7800 RPM) then the shaft has hit a critical speed. There are several ways to raise the critical speed of a driveshaft. You can make it lighter, stiffer, or increase diameter without increasing weight. This is the reason carbon fiber makes a good driveshaft, it is stiff and light and can be made to any diameter or wall thickness. Aluminum, while it has a very good critical speed is not quite as strong as steel. Steel, with good strength characteristics will have a lower critical speed."

So as you can see tensile strength does not equal critical speed, stiffness does, however. That is why carbon fiber driveshafts have a higher critical speed than steel or aluminum.

Here is a link to my article:

http://v6mustangperformance.com/news...haft-failures/

Changes to the design and quality assurance resulted in shaftmaster's revised design for their 3-1/2" driveshaft that provides the most bang for the buck.

Funster_2011V6

Anything you can bend bends the easiest in the middle. The slip joint (so the driveshaft can get longer and shorter as the suspension dictates) is in the middle.

Ford did it that way because it's light and cheap. But when you go too fast it bends like a jump rope. So, instead of coming up with something better, Ford put a speed limiter on it to keep it from esplodin' and called it good.

Lest we forget, Ford has used this "slip in the middle" driveshaft for years in the Ranger pickup with great success. But only because rangers are slow.

Funster_2011V6

Another thing.

Alot of this may just have to do with ford not wanting to get sued. Let me explain:

The cheapest base model v6 comes with crappy tires in a cheap size that are usually not SPEED RATED above 112mph. So, they made ALL the v6 cars speed limited so some dummy doesn't blow out his tires going too fast and then blames the car (vis a vis ford) for his mistake and sues.

Also makes insurance rates cheaper. There are speed increments where premiums JUMP above 123 and then above 137.

WORKISSLOW

Drive shaft link
http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index...=392&parent=97

from this post
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...u-correct.html

freyes

I believe that what you are saying is a factor, but remember, the manual trans flywheel is a dual mass (two piece) flywheel, that is used to reduce vibration, so the OEM sliding driveshaft may have been used to compensate for the problems inherent in this flywheel, not just the tires. This choice has to do more with NVR than anything else, as a single piece flywheel would cost less than this dual mass flywheel. Here is a youtube video on the manual trans flywheel. This, and the manual trans used in the V6 (and V8) are the reasons I went with an automatic. If you plan on putting any power to the ground, your drivetrain is the first thing you should modify. A friend of mine is having a special bell housing made so he can mount a Tremec manual trans to the V6. The kit is ready, but we need to trial fit it on my V6 engine, which has been pulled out of my mustang for a real forged component (Forged pistons and forged rods, not the powder metal forged OEM rods) retrofit.

WORKISSLOW

Cool,, another tip on taking weight out of the drive train! $500 to shave off 9lbs, well and the cost of putting it in, I seriously doubt I am going to change the fly wheel out myself.

I wonder how much power the OEM Flywheel will handle?
I am guessing it will handle your garden verity bolt on mods?

WORKISSLOW

I see cfm has free shipping on on the dss drive shaft.
I just checked lethal performance and i did not see the dss ds for the late model v6 listed. (but i am browesing on my phone.. I could have misses it).
What can you do when your stuck at karaoke besides shop for car parts, someone shove an ice pick in my ears please....




(719.99 for aluminum)

baddog671

FWIW, I took my Shaftmaster's unit to 135mph in 4th gear, and have also had it on my car for ~25,000 miles. Works flawlessly!