Anyone PLEASE HELP! 'car Red Lines every time I race and won't go down =/
#1
Anyone PLEASE HELP! 'car Red Lines every time I race and won't go down =/
2012 3.7 Mustang: So about a month ago I went down to the strip, on my 4th race when we hit the finish line and I let off the gas and put the car in neutral, my car's RPM band automatically shot up to redline and would not go down. I shut the car off and let it coast 'til I was able to get off the track. I ended up switching my tune back to stock and touching the batteries together to see if that would fix the problem.... It didn't =/. So since I had an aftermarket BBK 73mm throttle body on it I thought that was is so I ran home to get my stock throttle body and threw it back on my car and the problem was fixed instantly. So I have been running my stock tune with the stock throttle body for about a month now cuz I'm waiting on other parts w/new tunes. Yesterday I'm driving home and some a-hole keeps insisting to race so finally at a stop light we do and we take off(keep in mind, still on my stock tune/stock throttle body). I got to 3rd gear when he stopped so i let off the gas and went to shift into 4th when my car shot BACK UP to RED LINE AGAIN..... Immediately shut it off and let it cruise into a parking lot tried to turn it back on and it shot up again immediately to red line as soon as I started the car so I turned it off. Was there waiting a couple minutes trying to think what I was going to do, finally as I'm calling for a tow I decide to try one more time and I did and it started up normal. Drove it home but now I'm wondering what this could be??? Any ideas/insight would be MUCH APPRECIATED and HELPFUL.
Oh and also, every time I drive it and shift above 3500-4000 RPM's, when I engage the clutch and the engine goes into neutral my RPM'S will go slightly up before coming down if that makes sense while making a gear change.
Current "performance" mods: Airaid Cold Air Intake, Steeda Throttle Body Spacer, BBK shorty headers(ceramic), Ford Racing 3.73 gears, Roush Axlebacks, SCT Livewire TS Tuner
Other misc. mods: Barton 2-post bracket shifter, BBR LCA's, BMR Relocation Brackets, BMR Adj. panhard bar, Eibach Sportline springs, Raxiom smoked headlights, Roush side splitters, GT500 Rear diffuser, Offroad H-Pipe(waiting to be installed), Steeda CAI (Ordered but waiting on steeda to get in stock and ship), MPT Ghost cam tune(have but waiting for Steeda cai so I can install both CAI and offroad midpipe)
Oh and also, every time I drive it and shift above 3500-4000 RPM's, when I engage the clutch and the engine goes into neutral my RPM'S will go slightly up before coming down if that makes sense while making a gear change.
Current "performance" mods: Airaid Cold Air Intake, Steeda Throttle Body Spacer, BBK shorty headers(ceramic), Ford Racing 3.73 gears, Roush Axlebacks, SCT Livewire TS Tuner
Other misc. mods: Barton 2-post bracket shifter, BBR LCA's, BMR Relocation Brackets, BMR Adj. panhard bar, Eibach Sportline springs, Raxiom smoked headlights, Roush side splitters, GT500 Rear diffuser, Offroad H-Pipe(waiting to be installed), Steeda CAI (Ordered but waiting on steeda to get in stock and ship), MPT Ghost cam tune(have but waiting for Steeda cai so I can install both CAI and offroad midpipe)
#3
After that, any obvious issues with the TB connector cable? Maybe it's sending a faulty position to the ECU? To check, plug your tuner in and see what the TB and Pedal Position sensors are reading. They should be rock steady at idle with your foot off the gas. If that passes, stab the pedal (in then out quickly) so that the RPM surges over 4000, and see what the sensor values are doing then.
#4
That's not a horrible first guess...and super easy to check.
After that, any obvious issues with the TB connector cable? Maybe it's sending a faulty position to the ECU? To check, plug your tuner in and see what the TB and Pedal Position sensors are reading. They should be rock steady at idle with your foot off the gas. If that passes, stab the pedal (in then out quickly) so that the RPM surges over 4000, and see what the sensor values are doing then.
After that, any obvious issues with the TB connector cable? Maybe it's sending a faulty position to the ECU? To check, plug your tuner in and see what the TB and Pedal Position sensors are reading. They should be rock steady at idle with your foot off the gas. If that passes, stab the pedal (in then out quickly) so that the RPM surges over 4000, and see what the sensor values are doing then.
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