Any progress these past 2 months? Anxious to see some updates!

 

yeah what they said...

 

I am sorry I have not been updating this as often as I should. I simply ran out of time to be writing. I am going to try and update this as soon as I can.

JerseyGirlRacing
We all know that there is no substitute for a professional booth and a perfect climate, however I am sure you know that a decent job can be done at home. Is the the best, safest way to paint a car? Of course not, but the question gets asked many times here and by showing people what needs to be done, they just might opt to go to a pro because of all the time and exspence involved.

 

At this point I have the car in a blocking primer, I already layed down a coat of sealer and did all the body work (filled dings, feather sanded scratches ect). There are plenty of forums out there to learn the right way to fix dents and dings so I am not going to go into it here. What I am going to do next is to block sand the car with 600 grit and lay another coat of blocking primer and then repeat 2 or 3 times until the car is straight. This takes tons of time and is what seperates a OK job from a good one.

 

Im Churious, you have not removed the plastic trim, door handles however I see the spoiler up in the corner. Did you prep the tight spots? the jams, under the hood all the seams and everything? Or is that not important for this job?

Whattype of gun are you using to paint/ prime?

Before anyone goes out and attempts this on theyre own I think they should also know that good tools and good chemicalsmake a HUGE difference in the job as well as prep. If you go wherever you go locally and buy a $70 HVLP gun and who knows that kind of compressor just for this job and neglect using water seperators and air filters (^like said by JersyGirlRacing), dont expect show room quality work expect more "I painted my buddys pick up truckbecause I had a garage to do it in" kind of thing.

Also, painting and prep takes LOTS of practice. You need to keep 6" to 8"away form your work at all times, stay parallell and perpendicular. You need to go at a constant speed, you cant stop half way across your 1/4 you need to keep going in 1 swoop. Your settings on your gun need to be set right for how you paint but not too light or you will get dry over spray, not to heavy or your getting runs. You cant have a coffee any time you want, you need to be in there till your done that step/ job because the paint doesent stop curing just for you.

Like said above lots of these chemicals are bad for you, not cough for aday after,more like get cancer years later.

But yea, theres LOTS to paintingandto go out and try it in your garage and try it some weekend onanything but your beater car wouldent be a good idea.

I look forward to the next step.

 

Tough to see in the pic, but I would assume the door handles and trim are masked off as well - unless he's going for a color match combo.

 

We did not remove the trim on the 1/4 windows because it's a pain inthe *** and new ones will be used, although it should be done on a good job.
I am using a Devillbis primer gun with a 1.7 tip and a MAC HVLP that has a 1.3 tip for base. It's a new gun that I am trying out to see if I like it.

 

This guy knows his ****. For newbies, Haynes has a good techbook.
Automotive Body Repair and Painting.

 

update us

 

Can't wait for further updates. Specific questions:

1. It appears that you're repainting the body-side molding without removing it. Is this how most Mustangs are repainted, or do most people remove it (which begs the question, is the molding easily removed and re-attached? Also, because it's plastic, will it accept regular steel primer or do you need a special plastic paint?)

2. Bumpers--do they get painted with regular primer and paint, or do you need a special plasticizer additive, or awhole different paint?