extream windsor over hual

learning slowlzy · 02-15-2008, 11:53 PM

Alright im new to this mustangforum.. i know how forums work and no search really helped with this question.... So i got a crate engine from the lovely people at my local ford dealership, and about a year later (now) it started to run really wierd smoke alot etc. during dissassembly i found out that my #3 and #4 valve guides are shot and my #6 piston has a crack and a chunk missing out of the imboard top ring land... with alot of frustration left out im forced to rebuild. The ring exploded. the builder never set the crank endplay my cam is junk and all under 10kmiles im wiked happy

SOOO onto the build. this block came bored .030 over and one of my many questions and most imporant is HOW MUCH FARTHER can it go, the scoring looks to be minimal about .010' can i have it safely w/ .040" or can i even go to .060" for daily driving.

and the crank is junk now so i am researching the 408 or 393 strokers... i think they use a 6" rod whick i happened to come across new 6" forges Hbeam rods, so im set there and im looking at the weisco foreged flat top pistons ( i really trust weisco ive raced quads for going on 7years and they've never let me down)..........
so to the machineing, TO THE PEOPLE WHO HAVE DONE the 408, how much did you have to hog out of the block? and what was the biggest cam/crank/rod combo you could run without anything hitting?

sorry about the huge forum and any and all feedback would be appreciated, the block is going to the machine shop tuesday eek

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HYPEracing · 02-16-2008, 04:57 AM

you can safely go .060" on the over bore, and not worry. Weisco pistons, and JE/SRP pistons are all great choices. I am running a 4.100" crank, 6.200" rods, and some SPR pistons in my motor, gives me 418 CI on a .030" overbore. Cam depends a lot on the head choice. What you've picked so far sounds great, good luck, you'll love the stroker. Just remember to upgrade your tranny, lol you will be testing its durability with a healthy stroker.

92civy · 02-16-2008, 09:34 AM

Well I am using a probe street fighter stroker kit. I will be starting my build up soon. I get the block soon, All machined and ready to go. For my 408 Its a 4.03 bore, with a 4" stroke and 6.125" rods.

And Just remember, when you go to buy piston that they are the correct compression height. If your getting a longer rod/stroke the pin needs to set higher into the piston.

I personally will not use weisco! But if you want to go for it. I would say get a 4" stroker crank, 6.125" rods, and a piston with 1.350 Compression height (Like mine)

This will give you: 414CI/ 6.8L

I think it'll be nice! Thats with a 4.06 bore, 4" stroke....

Nik!

learning slowlzy · 02-16-2008, 10:37 AM

hey thanks for the fast imput but how much did you have to cut out of the bottom of the cyl. walls i know with the 5.0 347 kit it takes a hell-o-lotta machineing

92civy · 02-16-2008, 12:51 PM

With the 408 you shouldn't have any clearance problems. The only known spot for clearance issueswould be at the oil pump. But that can be done by yourself.

Once you get into the 4.10+++ Stroke then clearance issues come.....

But I owuld look into a stroker kit to ensure problem don't happen. Like I know it might be hard to get a psiton with the correct compression height from weisco. But IMO do a nice 408 stroker using a 4.060 or even a 4.04 if you can.

Build it once, and do it right!

Nik!

learning slowlzy · 02-16-2008, 09:39 PM

thanks alot i appreciate the fast responce and ya i suck at $pelling lol

92civy · 02-16-2008, 10:16 PM

No problem man! Good luck with the build. Any mroe questions, PM me.

Nik!

psuhillbilly150 · 02-17-2008, 02:17 PM

With respect to the cam you can go huge in these windsors and not have any clearance problems. I got a .644/.643 solid roller in my 408 with no problems and I know there are guys here with bigger. Just gotta get all the other stuff right to supportthe huge cam. I got my strokerkitfrom Eagle all forged with SRP pistons and balanced for a shade under 2 grand.

Like 92civy said the only notching you need to do is where the oil pump mounts but that is cake with a die grinder

dudeboy · 02-17-2008, 03:14 PM

I doubt your piston failed because of how the crank end play was set...
Detonation is more likely.
Rings don't break with out being abused...

The valve guides being worn may have been due to poor valvetrain setup / incorrect pushrod length???

I mention these things because it would be a bummer to install a new shortblock, just to have the same damage show up due to reusing some of the old hardware.
I recommend looking into the failures a little closer....

Before you order pistons, take a good look at the heads you'll be using.
Measure the combustion chamber volume, as compression can get VERY high wtih big strokers.

If you have to bore to 4.060", then go ahead.
The machine shop should try to clean it up at .040" though.

Some of the 408w strokers will require clearancing the bottom of the bore.
Here is what I did...

learning slowlzy · 02-17-2008, 05:00 PM

thanks! the piston must of been dropped at the plant prolly Jasper because theres no way a 1.5" chunk just went out my exhaust you know what i mean, and it was also cracked from the builder setting the press wrist pin wrong, a tiny stress crack gets huge when you beat the $*** out of it lol.... and the stupidest thing dont kill me about it... i can only afford the rotating assy right now, but could i get bye with the H.O. 5.0 heads or the GT40-P heads ported and 3 angle valve job? i'm using shorty headers and i dont know about the intake manifold i dont think ill be pushing over 350hp so i shopuld be alright....

and you said about the compression... HOW high can it actually get? its my first stroker engine