500 horse 351w build

jfritts · 09-03-2009, 05:15 PM

i just bought me a 84 351w to drop into my 69 coupe. Im looking to build it up to 500 hp but i still plan on it being my dd. right now im looking at picking up a forged crank, forged connecting rods, 185cc intake twisted wedge heads with 65cc combustion chamber, forged trick flow pistons to match heads, long tube headers, edelbrock intake and carb. im looking to keep this motor below 6000rpm. this is my first engine build so i got a few questions. budget is not really a problem but id like to keep it under 10k

1. is the 185cc heads large enough or should i step it up to 205 or 225? is trick flow comparable to afr?

2. what is the stock compression ratio and combustion chamber size? i would like to keep my ratio about 10:1 or 11:1 but i need to run off pump gas

3. what would be an ideal cam? im looking for that muscle car lope with most power i can squeeze out of it.

4. anything i might have missed or pointers that you guys have?

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sn95_331_GT_ yellow · 09-03-2009, 05:40 PM

not even close with the parts you have listed. ill post again when i get back from dinner with the wife.

sn95_331_GT_ yellow · 09-03-2009, 08:17 PM

408 stroker kit, dished pistons, forged I beam rods, at the MINIMUM AFR 205 heads, if not 225, or TFS R-Series, ported Edelbrock Victor Jr's, single plane intake manifold, 850+ carb, 1-3/4 or 1-7/8 into 3" longtubes, 3" X into mufflers of your liking, and tails.
as for the cam, a solid roller COMP XR292 (what i had in my 357W) will work fine for an OTS cam (and believe me, you will get that lope at idle you want). best approach is to get a custom ground solid roller to match your combo. you will have to spin the engine to 6500-6700 rpm to take full advantage of the cams powerband (my engine made peak power at 6800 rpm, but having a 408 makes a bigger cam, in essence, seem smaller because of the increased cubes.
as for the rest of everything, aim for 10.5 or higher compression, and go with AFR's 58cc chambers on the heads or see if the other heads can be milled down to roughly that. my car had ported Victor Jr's on it (thank you Fox Lake Racing). depends on your budget or personal preference.
my motor cost about 6500 for everything other than supporting mods, which always add up remember.
hope this helps. let me know if you need more info.

jfritts · 09-03-2009, 09:20 PM

thanks for the help man. i will definitely look into the 225 heads. any way i can go about getting my numbers without getting a stroker kit and upping displacement? i had already planned on custom cam i just hadnt found a place to do it yet. exhaust set up i knew about and for intake i was looking at edelbrock performer rpm air gap. then for supporting mods i got nothing but parts from 1969 which i plan on scrapping.

wildcobrar · 09-04-2009, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jfritts

thanks for the help man. i will definitely look into the 225 heads. any way i can go about getting my numbers without getting a stroker kit and upping displacement? i had already planned on custom cam i just hadnt found a place to do it yet. exhaust set up i knew about and for intake i was looking at edelbrock performer rpm air gap. then for supporting mods i got nothing but parts from 1969 which i plan on scrapping.

Lean toward the Twisted wedge R heads or the 225 High ports. If you look into the AFR 205 or bigger afr heads they are flowed on a 4.125 inch cylinder bore.(for a reason) The TFS heads have the valves moved slightly in the heads allowing them to "breathe" better on a 4.00 to 4.060 inch bore. They will out run the other brand heads with out doubt. 1 and 3/4 inch long tubes will do but lean toward the 1 and 7/8 to 2 inch primary long tubes if you can. I think you will be better off going Super Victor intake if you are bumping to 408 inches because a Vic Jr will need porting(making the super and better choice for the $$) Pro Systems would be the choice for carbs and my guess is it will be a 950 HP style Holley carb. Pro Systems will build the carb to match your build. TKO 600 trans with 3.73 to 4.10 rear gear in a Fox Mustang with traction and you have a mid 10 second car on engine (10.5 to 1 compression and pump gas) with hardly breaking a sweat. No power adder needed.

Joe

kuikcat · 09-10-2009, 02:06 AM

500hp muscle car? i would not have it as a daily driver. gas guzzler!

jfritts · 09-10-2009, 04:38 PM

well i guess im lucky my daily driver right now is a bronco with a 351w and about 10mpg if i drive it easy. fuel economy isnt really in my vocabulary

sn95_331_GT_ yellow · 09-12-2009, 05:50 PM

pffft... fu<k that.

get a DART alum. block and use a 4.125" bore and a 4.000" stroke. 427 cubic inches, the same weight as a 302, and with for bolt mains aim for the f-ing sky on the redline.

have you ever heard a small block at 7500rpm? go listen to one and then imagine that at your right foot whenever you want...

in all seriousness, TFS heads will work fine, although (someone feel free to correct me if im wrong) i thought only the twisted wedge heads have the revised intake valve location to reduce the shrouding effect common with a 2.02" valve on the "smaller" bores?

god i havent touched my car in so long... i miss it.

wagontrain · 09-12-2009, 06:30 PM

If you are getting an aftermarket crank its all the same price to get more stroke,but you dont need that many cubc inches to make that much(yes it will easier)but don't need it.AFR 205 atleast, a solid roller cam mid to high 250s mid 600 lift, Victor intake, 750,800 cfm carb, 1 7/8 3.5 exhaust, 10.5 - 1 compression.

jfritts · 09-13-2009, 06:45 PM

man i wish i had the money for an aluminum block or atleast one with the 4 bolt mains. but that will have to wait for another build at a later time