351 Mustang

Victor race or Trickflow HP's

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Old 02-05-2010, 02:27 PM
  #11  
uedlose
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while the High Ports will work I still stand with not gone any smaller then a Victor head. I love the High ports also and they are a great head but with the CID you are talking I think they are gone to be a bit out of place.Big Block CID needs Big Block air. Yates heads can be picked up at good prices due to the fact the demand is just not as high for them (sometimes) the same for some of the Cleveland style heads. But a lot of this depends on how much HP you really want to make. Any way it goes lets hear what you go with.

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Old 02-05-2010, 02:43 PM
  #12  
BlessedHellride
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i need to get a block also, not sure which to purchase first lol. But Im not even going to attempt what I want to do on a stock production block.
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:47 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by wildcobrar
I would look into a set of Cleveland style heads. They can be had for the cost of Hi Ports and I am sorry but the correct ones will slaughter the Hi Port combo. A 408 Clevor in N/A form well thought out would take a power adder car to run with it. I know of a few aluminum Cleveland heads that come to mind that would make screaming power.
The Cleveland heads have a large advantage over most other Windsor style heads.


Joe
Get me some links with flow data and stuff so I can read up on these heads. Thanks
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:38 PM
  #14  
wildcobrar
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Originally Posted by BlessedHellride
Get me some links with flow data and stuff so I can read up on these heads. Thanks
Here you go.

http://www.airflowdynamics.com.au/pr...land_heads.htm I like the combustion chambers in these and they can be bought for a reasonable price.

http://www.chiheads.com.au/3v_225cc.php These are a nice head too.

http://www.bluethunderauto.com/id15.html I own a set of these in the 3.6 set up with 51 cc chambers. These are BAD ****'s!! I have flow numbers of them out of the box and after porting. Out of the box they go 345 cfm on the intake @ .700" and 240 cfm ex @ .700" After porting they go 390 cfm @.700" and 405 @ .800" on intake exhaust goes 265 @ .800" the exhaust was not flowed through a tube.



Plus you can run a Cleveland stock 4V iron head with the right things done to them and you will have a car that runs very hard.

If you are looking for deals on some of these heads, I can hook you up.

Joe
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:11 AM
  #15  
uedlose
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Originally Posted by BlessedHellride
i need to get a block also, not sure which to purchase first lol. But Im not even going to attempt what I want to do on a stock production block.
What is it that you want too do??
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:18 AM
  #16  
5.0kid
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Originally Posted by uedlose
What is it that you want too do??
Same thoughts. so just 9.50s? or are you looking to go faster? Are you going to stick to N/A? I would go with some Yates heads if you are going to stick to N/A even though they are open chamber they make a **** ton of power with good compression. Roush Yates makes over 800 hp on a 358 with those heads at 14:1 compression. Im sure a 454 would easily put you over the 1200 mark with that compression and the right cam and other supporting parts. But they can get expensive. Vic Glidden SC1's would also be a good head to go with.
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:36 AM
  #17  
BlessedHellride
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Well, the goal is to get down to 9.0's to 9.20's N/A. If it dips into the 8's, i'd be happy and never build anything else after this one. And I'd like room to through on a N20 shot if I need to be quicker. But I will see how the car handles this much power and how it tracks down the track. If it seems stable enough, I will throw down the guantlet untill I reach a point to where either the car is unstable or I get scared, whichever comes first. I been talking to a guy via email about a fully forged rotating assembly and a block. Looking at working out a wholesale deal, might even become a vendor for him. After days of reading around a few forums, it looks like I will be going with a set of CNC'd Victor Race heads that flow a ton. The rotating assembly I'm going to get will put me at 460cid of small block windsor, chevy thumping power. It should raise a few eyebrows around the house when I get it together. Im trying to keep it hush hush for now. Atleast till I get the block machined and shortblock stacked. Then I'll let the cat out of the bag and watch the worms start to wiggle and squirm in pure terror.

I really don't want to use any power adder at all. I'm more of an all motor kinda guy. I'm old school. And I like to see guys stack they're own engines versus taking it to a shop and having them stack it. It's hard for me to respect someone at the track who rambles on about nothing but reciepts and CC bills. Build what you can afford to and enjoy yourself. There will always be someone faster out there.
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:38 PM
  #18  
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I would think your goal is a very fair one and you should be able to reach it without much issues AS long as the car hooks. A friend of mine runs a 427 with a set of ported RHS heads with 14to1 compression and runs 9.40 all day long WHEN it hooks well. But hooking is a problem at times.. at our local track. and this is off the foot break with a trans. brake it would run even faster but traction issues would be even more of a problem. Wise words with there will always be someone faster,, LOL
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:23 PM
  #19  
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I have some big suspension plans to go along with this big inch engine. I am thinking mini-tubbed. I have back halved a few cars in my day and I've seen pictures of how to do the shotty frame rails of these fox bodies. My Father has been trying to convince me to bring the car out to his neighbor in Pheonix and let him install a cage and do the mini-tub work. I hadnt made up my mind if Im going to do it or let the chassis builder do it. Those guys can charge the crap out of ya. But the man does some of the cleanest work I've ever seen
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