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351 based engine is way to go i did the 347 aluminum head build was happy till friend built 351 .30 flat tops and dooe heads cost him less in long run and was quicker in 1/4 and 1/8 mile so built almost the same but roller and happier now
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The rod angle is different on the two engines, and where they wiill want to make power in the RPM range is different. The 347 has the shorter rod, and will tend to wear out the bores sooner, needs a different cam . The 351w is a 9" deck block, main bearings are too big (Cleveland deck is lower, more on the order of a SBC, uses a shorter, lighter rod, still a much more longevity than the 347, and has smaller main journals than the 9" deck). If I had the choice, Id build a cleveland deck with the trick flow heads, roller rockers, good rods, custom pistons, flat tappet cam with even duration, 140lb seated springs, square deck the block, and balance and clearance everything, port match the intake, make sure that the exhaust has a reversion dam. Anyway, IMHO, the cleveland deck is better, lighter, piston/rod combo and pretty explosion proof. Just a thought
Wouldnt it cost significantly more to go w a Cleveland? Since all of the parts needing to be swapped will have to be custom made, like headers etc etc
The windsor heads will fit the cleveland block. If you are going to use a cleveland block you will need the cleveland crank or a motorsport crank clearanced for the block in front as the counterweight wont clear(ask me how I know this!). I think that a lot of manifolds will fit. Its not easy, but it will make for a lighter piston/rod/bobweight. If you arent going to put a ton of power thru it, the cleveland cast crank will work.. The headers should fit. If you use the cleveland heads, yes, you will have to use a header kit and make them up. I always like d the cleveland heads, they flow really well(almost too much) and they have canted valves. I dont know if they are superior to the Trick Flow, tho.
Aussie 2bbl heads have better flow as the ports are smaller, giving more velocity than 4bbl heads.
The way I see it it's 351w hands down. I've debated this in my head a thousand times and my conclusion is there's no way I'm going to spend the kind of money required for machining, parts plus putting together a 347 with a factory 302 block....F that!! I want to do it once so if I did I would have to go with a Dart block and that just throws the whole budget out of wack then the sound choise is the 351w, starting the project a step ahead of the 347.
I think if you are considering 347 vs 351 and not the 351 stroker option the main benefit is strength. The 351 has 4ci more but also a larger heavier rotating mass. You can get away with a 185 head on the 351 easily. Basically whatever would work on the 347 will work on the 351 other than intake, oil pan, distributor and headers. Short block weight between the 2 is around 50lbs. Put your battery in the trunk and you will never feel the difference. Add aluminum heads and the nose will start getting lighter than stock.
351W all day. To build a 347 you're already going to have to pay for the stroker kit, pay for machining and assembly costs, unless you have the tech know how to assemble it properly yourself, and you wind up with a weaker block and still have 4 fewer cubes than me. Get your Windsor, if the bottom end is stout, leave it alone. A set of AFR 205's, a properly matched intake, and if its not a roller, pay the extra couple hundred for the retrofit lifters and pushrods. Get the right cam and you'll be making gobs of low end torque perfect for stoplight to stoplight raci... er... driving. Assuming you already have a 302 car, a Windsor will bolt right up to your tranny. You said you've got a year to do this, think about it and do it right.
Then again, I may just be biased.
89 GT 5.8 Budget Bruiser
351W .30 over, 3.73 Posi, Eddy Air Gap intake manifold, BBK shortys, fat cam, antique lifters, greedy carb, junkyard heads, black iron pipe roll cage, skeleton interior, angle iron dashboard
From a cost standpoint it is a no brainer. 351w all the way. Just remember to use the best possibe main and rod bearings available. I would also use the best oil possible. Because the 351 was designed as a truck engine it has larger main journals. These do not like high rpm. Do not use any factory ford iron head. They are all junk. A good set of alum heads and the other basic internal up grades and you are on your way. I always wanted to build a 351w stroker for my but never did. To get 10 sec on a reliable daily driven car is going to be a litttle tricky without a good bit of $$$ invested.
There is nothing so simple that it can not be done wrong
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