Fordfoxbody88

whats the differance? 28oz and internally, i thought the only thing that mde a set up internally balanced is that the crank is balanced with the damper and flywheel. im not understanding this balancing stuff because i know if i want my block to survive 500-550 hp i need a spot on balance that is internaly balanced, and not go above 6000 rpms. and im not looking to exceed that hp and ik half the kits out there rated for 600hp have a scat 9000 cast crank in it and all the 500 hp rated one do. that one guy recommended the kit dss with everything forged but the crank whats that rated for and why should i not use it with a supercharger. and if you want me to use a kit from coast high what kit? because i do not think there is one for under $1500 in there. i think ill only make 450 hp with the motor i want to build and when i put the supercharger on down the road it wont be anytime soon, but i only think that will add 100 hp at the most and im going to put a conservative tune on it so as long as its balanced right and i dont go above 6000 rpms wheres the problem at? im not rich i dont have $5000 to spend on just the motor

Fordfoxbody88

i was just saying i was looking at the kits on summit i was going to use the one from dss, and im not going above 600 so i dont see the reason as to y i need a forged one because thats going to be wasted money from what ive been told. the internals shoulds easly out last my block so please tell me why i need a forged crank im just not seeing it.

Duncan_GT

Ok, if the motor is internally balanced, that means the crank has all of the balancing work done to itself. No flywheel/damper needed in the balancing job. The machinist weighs the pistons and rods separately and balances the crank to match that reciprocating weight.

If its externally balanced, the flywheel/damper have the counterweight installed on them, instead of adding/removing weight from the crankshaft itself. Therefore when balancing the crankshaft externally, the flywheel/damper will need to be installed on the crankshaft, and then the weight will be added to them to offset the reciprocating weight of the rods and pistons. The downside to external balancing is that the crankshaft now has to sling that weight around, instead of having a zero balance. More weight = less acceleration. In the long run, and in a street driven motor, this doesn't really matter. When you're racing and having spent serious $$$ on an engine build, you'd want to unlock every bit of power you could.

I don't know how else to explain it to you lol

Fordfoxbody88

okay thanks you for that and i called dss racing today about their 347 kit that was posted on my wall and they said its rated for 550-600 hp which is what im lookingfor, he also said it will work with a small blower thats not putting out alot of boost. he said it is already set up to be externally balanced at 28oz and he said its rated to go to 7000 rpms but im still not going to go above 6000 rpms and he said all i have to do is go out a buy a quality fly wheel and damper with this assembly. he said as long as is tuned right i should have no problems with it and its all put together carefully. he said for what im looking to do this kit is basically what i want and that i dont need it to be internally balanced, i think this kit is what i want cuz i can put flat top pistons in it with lik 70cc heads and have liuke 9.6 cr and without the blower it should make between 400 to 450 id think and add the blower i should be in the 500s right? o and also he said i need to stud everything and also that i sound get a main gurdel to make the bottom end strong.

Duncan_GT

right on. I wouldnt bother w a girdle though

Fordfoxbody88

What's wrong with them Swartz of money? And where can I get a good kit for putting studs everywhere

Duncan_GT

I havent used one, but from what I've seen its the block that cracks so reinforcing the mains is useless. I would look at Summit or jegs and see i they have like an hardware rebuild kit. I bought all my stuff seperately when it was time to order the corresponding part. The only thing not studded on mine is the upper intake manifold and water pump

Venomantidote95

On the balancing AGIAN, the external balance weight will be removed from the front and back counter weight at precise points, internally the counter-weoghts are drilled and then new heavier weight is added to the crank the balancers are never drilled or anything exept at the manufacturer.

As far as the girdle being useless well OOOK! If you have a girdle and your block breaks you get tp reuse your rotating assembly, you dont use one and the block goes get ready to buy more parts!

Using a forged crank in a stock 5.0 block is pure ****ing stupidity!

A cast or nodular crank dosent break from power it breaks from flexing at high rpms under power: balancing and main girdle and good tune(not conservative lol) is what keeps the stock block 347 alive!

This is all just my opinion but 35 engines later I may have learned atleast 1 thing!

Sure I am not the god of engines but i know how to build them and get the results I or whomever I build one for wants......

Fordfoxbody88

okay thank yu guys for all the help but i think i got everything i really need to know im probly going to get that kit from dss racig and get the stuff they recomend from them and talk to my machine shop and the get heads and be set

mjr46

stock block = waste of money putting a forged crank in, cast will out last most stock blocks