351 Mustang

Sunrise over the salt flats

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Old 06-01-2016, 08:15 AM
  #11  
88 orangepeel notch
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Glad to hear the dolly worked well.

As for the wheel hop, a nice set of aftermarket lower control arms usually cure the hop. The stockers flex way to much. Along with the bushings are probably shot anyways.
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:09 PM
  #12  
ex05gt
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Originally Posted by 88 orangepeel notch
Glad to hear the dolly worked well.

As for the wheel hop, a nice set of aftermarket lower control arms usually cure the hop. The stockers flex way to much. Along with the bushings are probably shot anyways.
Like these? The short ones are the uppers too, right?



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-790000r/overview/
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ex05gt
Went to Salt Lake City and picked up my 82 Capri over the weekend. She's no beauty queen, but for it's age it's in pretty damn good condition! I haven't found a dent in it yet. All the trim, bumpers, bezels etc are in great shape. The oxidizing of the paint will buff out and be done soon!
Very nice. Remember looking at those back in the day. Almost bought an 80 that looked very similar
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Old 06-05-2016, 06:17 PM
  #14  
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Got the paint buffed out and all the glass clean. My dad painted it and it definitley is a "backyard" paint job, but what the hell. Can't complain about the price! I've been looking into what I have to do to smog it and it seems like it's going to be alot more trouble than it's worth. The one viable option is to just have my dad go ahead and renew the registrtion (it's only been expired since feb) and keep the car in his name and, from what I've been told, I can insure it out here and drive it legally that way. I will probably hear from my insurance guy tommorrow and see what he says.
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:02 AM
  #15  
88 orangepeel notch
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Paint looks good, congrats.

And yes, on the control arms, the uppers are the short ones. But I've heard some guys only needing to replace the lowers to cure the wheel hop. I can't remember why some say to skip the uppers for some reason. I think it stiffens up the rearend to much causing a harsher ride in some circumstances.

Someone may chime in here and let you know....
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:25 PM
  #16  
ex05gt
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Originally Posted by 88 orangepeel notch
Paint looks good, congrats.

And yes, on the control arms, the uppers are the short ones. But I've heard some guys only needing to replace the lowers to cure the wheel hop. I can't remember why some say to skip the uppers for some reason. I think it stiffens up the rearend to much causing a harsher ride in some circumstances.

Someone may chime in here and let you know....
My Capri has been sitting since Nov when the clutch cable broke. With all the rain over the winter work was scarce, so it had to wait. But, got the cable fixed and took it to my smog guy today and I'm going back this evening it should be good! As soon as I got home I got rid of those ugly *** pipes!
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Old 05-28-2022, 03:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 88 orangepeel notch
Paint looks good, congrats.

And yes, on the control arms, the uppers are the short ones. But I've heard some guys only needing to replace the lowers to cure the wheel hop. I can't remember why some say to skip the uppers for some reason. I think it stiffens up the rearend to much causing a harsher ride in some circumstances.

Someone may chime in here and let you know....
Well after 5 years...LOL My username changed as I had trouble logging in..blah blah. But I had the Capri going and was driving it pretty regularly until May of 2020 and we were planning on moving to Idaho so I didn't bother renewing. So, anyway, been in Idaho about 18 months and I haven't driven the Capri (other than around the property from time to time) in 2 years. I wanted to put a 5 speed in it and I pulled the stock 4 speed out a couple days ago. I met a guy this morning that has a mid-90's T5 for sale. So I took the stocker with me and did a side by side. And what I found was I need to change the bell housing cuz the trans bolt pattern is different. No prob, he has the BH with it. I noticed that the input shaft on the T5 is about a 1/2" longer than on the 4 spd. The bell housings are the same depth from mating surface to mating surface. So.....that doesn't make sense. I'm wondering if there is a spacer plate that will go between the trans and BH? And then the shifter location on the stocker is off to the L side a bit, but the T5 is centered on the trans. IDk if the shift lever is offset, or????? And the clutch/shift fork. Will I need to change that too? The guy has the cross member also that is a bit adjustable and I have a welder so that wont be an issue.
So, anyway, as money and time allows, I'm gonna be getting some stuff done on this old thing. After the trans I wanna take the rear end out, check it, and then, I'm sure that there are upgraded axles for 5 lug wheels? It needs new tires badly, so should I wait until I change the axles or can I get 5 lug wheels in stock 15" size? Someone on here told me about LMR and I finally looked them up a week or so ago, and damn, pretty impressive with all the mustang stuff they have.

After the drivetrain/tires are sorted out, I have a guy that will paint it for me. I'm thinking of doing a matte black with a little red trim (like the hood scoop) and maybe some red highlights on some custom wheels. Whaddya guys think? And then the interior...door panels, some weather stripping (especially around the T-top glass) and a few other things. I'm sure I'll be on here alot asking (dumm) questions. LOL



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