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For 400rwhp, it depends on the power adder, but it can be done on the stock block, but if you plan to beat and beat and beat on it, you should probably beef up the bottom end. Here are some real life combinations I have seen in person and at the track that broke the 400rwhp on stock internals....
Centri w/SSM Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Flapjack[*]SSM stage 3 heads and cams (includes upgraded valve springs)[*]Procharger DS1C[*]14lbs of boost[*]Catback exhaust[*]Bragging rights: 440rwhp / 380 rwtq @ 14psi [/ul]Centri w/Powerhouse Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Ranebowcyxx[*]PH Heads and Cams (includes new valve springs)[*]Procharger PS1C[*]10lbs of boost[*]Bragging rights: 12.03@115[/ul]Powerhouse Turbo w/shimmed valve springs
[ul][*]Owner: Buckman[*]Shimmed valve springs (needed for 11psi or higher or risk floating a valve)[*]Powerhouse Turbo[*]13psi and 15psi w/75 shot[*]Bragging rights: 11.9 on 13psi, 11.02@126 on 15psi w/75 shot nitrous[/ul]
On the stock block, with shimmed vavle springs you can run mid to high 11's. High 11's reliably. Is your goal dyno driven or track driven? Depending on your specific situation, it may be more cost effective to wait and go GT and just put a blower on it. The GT rods and pistons are good to about 450, after that most GT owners I talked to said you are on borrowed time and room for error is minimal at best. If you are racing a lot on boost, for any car, forged internals are always a good bet. But a built motor does not mean its 100%. I cheap insurance policy at the track is to run race gas when you dial up the boost.
"Master of bad tech advice" What a f'ing hoot. Damn you must have pissed someone off good. Heres a tip, talk to things you have direct experience with.
Rygen, so would a 12psi dyno tuned intercooled vortech supercharger be fine for daily driving w/o forged internals? I know that you know a lot on super and turbochargers so I'll get your help while your here.
Yes, lots of people run 12psi centris on the 4.0 as a DD with a good tune. Ranebowcyxx ran 12 and 14psi for an entire season with no issues, Scrming ran 12psi as well.
I just read rainbow had upgraded valve springs, is that necessary for a daily driver? I won't hit it hard that much, mabe twicea month.
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Fun Car-04 Mustang Mach 1-LM 2 cat-back, Mac o/r h-pipe, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, K&N hi-flow air filter, Diablo Tuner,
DD-08 Honda Fit-H-Fit STS, K&N hi-flow air filter,
For 400rwhp, it depends on the power adder, but it can be done on the stock block, but if you plan to beat and beat and beat on it, you should probably beef up the bottom end. Here are some real life combinations I have seen in person and at the track that broke the 400rwhp on stock internals....
Centri w/SSM Heads and Cams [ul][*]Owner: Flapjack[*]SSM stage 3 heads and cams (includes upgraded valve springs)[*]Procharger DS1C[*]14lbs of boost[*]Catback exhaust[*]Bragging rights: 440rwhp / 380 rwtq @ 14psi [/ul]Centri w/Powerhouse Heads and Cams [ul][*]Owner: Ranebowcyxx[*]PH Heads and Cams (includes new valve springs)[*]Procharger PS1C[*]10lbs of boost[*]Bragging rights: 12.03@115[/ul]Powerhouse Turbo w/shimmed valve springs [ul][*]Owner: Buckman[*]Shimmed valve springs (needed for 11psi or higher or risk floating a valve)[*]Powerhouse Turbo[*]13psi and 15psi w/75 shot[*]Bragging rights: 11.9 on 13psi, 11.02@126 on 15psi w/75 shot nitrous[/ul]
On the stock block, with shimmed vavle springs you can run mid to high 11's. High 11's reliably. Is your goal dyno driven or track driven? Depending on your specific situation, it may be more cost effective to wait and go GT and just put a blower on it. The GT rods and pistons are good to about 450, after that most GT owners I talked to said you are on borrowed time and room for error is minimal at best. If you are racing a lot on boost, for any car, forged internals are always a good bet. But a built motor does not mean its 100%. I cheap insurance policy at the track is to run race gas when you dial up the boost.
"Master of bad tech advice" What a f'ing hoot. Damn you must have pissed someone off good. Heres a tip, talk to things you have direct experience with.
Rygen, so would a 12psi dyno tuned intercooled vortech supercharger be fine for daily driving w/o forged internals? I know that you know a lot on super and turbochargers so I'll get your help while your here.
Yes, lots of people run 12psi centris on the 4.0 as a DD with a good tune. Ranebowcyxx ran 12 and 14psi for an entire season with no issues, Scrming ran 12psi as well.
I just read rainbow had upgraded valve springs, is that necessary for a daily driver? I won't hit it hard that much, mabe twicea month.
If you are going for 400rwhp, you should shim them or upgrade the valve springs. You can get valve float on the street at WOT just as easily as you can on the track.
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6
Best 1/4: 11.23@117.11, 1.58 60ft w/5.4 V8 www.rygen.net/stang
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RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
