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About a year ago I had steeda sport springs installed... and kept the stock shocks. Very noticeable improvement in handling (and about a 1 inch drop). My car has a negative camber, and wears the inside of the front tires a little more than before. I rotate my tires every 10,000 miles and haven't any significant wear problems.. although I do think I will have to change them out sooner because of this.
A few months ago I installed non-adjustable Tokico HP shocks in the rear only... I plan on doing the fronts when I get the time.. but I have had no ill effects so far with this set-up so far. In fact, this is the best handling car I have ever owned do to these changes.
I do not plan on adding CC plates to the mix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drfister
The more you drop it, the more stress other components will take, thus shortening their lifespan and making you replace them sooner. I dropped mine with the pro-kit and d-specs. While arguably not the greatest set-up, it more then does the trick for my daily driver. I spent around $1000 for the springs, shocks/struts, install and allignment. I bought camber bolts but did not land up needing them, and I did not get a panhard bar. While the panhard bar is generally a good idea, you will only notice your axle-shift with fatter tires; but since you are on 245's that shouldnt be too big an issue. I would reccomend shocks/ struts because ride you are on 35 profile tires. With just the spirngs it will probably be a bit stiff. Caster/camber plates and relocation brackets you can probably get away with if you go for a more mild drop but they tent to be almost necessary with a more agressive drop which I got the idea you were aiming for, OP.
Check out this thread (if you havent already) before you purchase any thing. You will probably learn a thing or two. http://www.mustangforums.com/forum/s...tang-gt-2.html
Also, keep an eye out for two members 'legion' and 'sam strano'; they both are a fountain of information with regards to suspension modifications.
I'm checking that thread now, thanks!
Originally, I thought I should just go for the biggest drop possible (h&r supersports) but with all the problems you guys are saying it could cause I would go for some pro-kit springs if it meant I wouldn't have to buy CC plates and that my overall performance would be better. Do you think that my wheel gap would disappear with the pro-kits or would that be too meager to really make the difference?
Here's a picture from eye level of what it looks like now so you can get an idea.
It's definitely going to take a good amount of drop due to your low profile tires. A one inch drop did not completely eliminate the wheel gap on my car.. even with the stock tires (link to pictures of my car in my sig link).
Every little bit helps.. but im guessing that a one inch drop, for example.. would put your gap close to what it was with the stock tires. In order to eliminate the gap completely, you are going to either have to slam the car.. or get some tires with some more meat.
<<<EDIT>>>
After looking at your pictures again.. the gap doesn't look that bad. It looks like your overall wheel/tire circumference is probably pretty close to stock due to the larger diameter rims.
Also.. the negative camber isn't bad (if it's reasonable).. and like others have said.. it can actually improve handling... You will just have to rotate your tires more often to get an even wear pattern.
It's definitely going to take a good amount of drop due to your low profile tires. A one inch drop did not completely eliminate the wheel gap on my car.. even with the stock tires (link to pictures of my car in my sig link).
Every little bit helps.. but im guessing that a one inch drop, for example.. would put your gap close to what it was with the stock tires. In order to eliminate the gap completely, you are going to either have to slam the car.. or get some tires with some more meat.
I always had a somewhat big wheel-gap even with my stockies. The difference in diameter is only about an inch so thats really only a half-inch of wheel gap it added. I'm def. going to get meatier tires when these wear out but for now I need a solution.......to slam or not to slam.......
After looking at your pictures again.. the gap doesn't look that bad. It looks like your overall wheel/tire circumference is probably pretty close to stock due to the larger diameter rims.
Also.. the negative camber isn't bad (if it's reasonable).. and like others have said.. it can actually improve handling... You will just have to rotate your tires more often to get an even wear pattern.
Yeah i put one of the old tires next to one of the the new ones standing up and didn't see too much of a difference. Rotating should be no problem since I have the same size wheels all around. My camber as I measured it today was 1.1 degrees. Lol i just realized when i posted before i used a % symbol to represent degrees... see what summer does to you?
How do you think my camber/ wheel gap would sit if I got
a) H&R supersports, Front: 1.7" drop, Rear: 1.9" drop
vs getting
b) Eibach pro kit, Front: 1.3" drop, Rear: 1.4" drop
with a difference of .5 inches and a wheel height of 26 inches, I got about 1.1% of camber.
whether that means i will need cc plates, i don't know. hopefully I did the measuring right, my ground is pretty flat.
The math looks OK.
However, it's more reliable to measure from the outer flanges of the wheels instead of the tire.
-1.1° is within spec and is actually a pretty good place to be if you take corners hard from time to time. Autocrossing or open tracking might benefit from camber that's more negative, but if you only drive mildly or are setting up a dedicated drag strip car, -1.1° may be too much.
However, it's more reliable to measure from the outer flanges of the wheels instead of the tire.
-1.1° is within spec and is actually a pretty good place to be if you take corners hard from time to time. Autocrossing or open tracking might benefit from camber that's more negative, but if you only drive mildly or are setting up a dedicated drag strip car, -1.1° may be too much.
Norm
Well right now it's my DD, and I am a "spirited driver" as some might euthanize, but I don't see my car ever being a dedicated drag car, nor an auto-X car, having just enough camber to take hard corners sounds preferable.
Do you think that my camber will become too much more negative upon the slamming, or will it still be within an acceptable range?
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see what summer does to you? 
