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Lowering Springs: What else do I need and should I do it myself?
Well, having gotten some new wheels and tires, and being that the wheel gap is huge and my handling could use some improvement, I have decided that I will lower the car in July. I am going to go with the H&R Super-Sports based on that they offer the biggest drop for the money and people seem to like them the best (also no sagging probs).
Do I need shocks and struts to maintain a decent ride quality?
Can I install springs, shocks and struts myself at home (no prior suspension experience)?
Do I absolutely need a spring compressor? (no idea what they look like/cost)
Is it worth it to have it professionally done?
Do I need a suspension alignment afterwards?
Please don't me cause I'm such a suspension noob, just trying to get my info from the horse's mouth and not trial by error buying.
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if you want to do it right..get the shocks and struts with the lowering springs..your gunna have to do it anyway so why not do it all at once..and if you have to..pick up some caster/camber plates..u can tweek your alignment with these if you have some uneven tire ware..i think thats what there for? dont quote me on that
Do I need shocks and struts to maintain a decent ride quality? Yes (You also need tires with some sidewall - no rubber bands)
Can I install springs, shocks and struts myself at home (no prior suspension experience)? Yes, search for a how to or buy a repair manual
Do I absolutely need a spring compressor? (no idea what they look like/cost) Yes for the front. You can borrow/rent one You'll also need a floor jack and jack stands. I'm sure someone will chime in, they did it without a spring compressor = unsafe and stupid.
Is it worth it to have it professionally done? If you have the $$, a shop you trust and can't/don't want to do it yourself.
Do I need a suspension alignment afterwards? Yes. You may also need an adjustable panhard rod to center the rear axle. If you drop over an inch, you should also check pinion angle.
Understand that having the biggest drop generally means that you will NOT get the best handling, and that handling in cases of extreme lowering may not be even as good as bone-stock. Even though the appearance may make you think that the cornering and handling will improve, you end up making bigger sacrifices in suspension geometry than the lower CG height gains back for you. It is entirely possible to end up with a car that rolls more than stock in the same turn at the same speed even with the lowering springs being stiffer than stock.
Trust me on that last item, as I've been there with H&R Sport springs on a different car. H&R's are certainly good enough as springs, just that when you have WAY too much drop, you WILL have problems. In my case I ended up fabricating (involving cutting/welding/drilling of steel flat stock) a very non-standard "fix" to put things somewhere near right again).
I realize that you're putting appearance pretty high up on the list of requirements here, but the closer to a 1" drop that you can talk yourself into living with, the better your handling improvement will actually end up being. And the less frequently you'll be hitting the bump stops even with new shocks and struts.
At 1", you shouldn't have any rear axle centering issues unless you've got much bigger than stock rubber sizes back there or are running 2004 and earlier wheels. IOW, the adjustable PHB can probably wait if $ is a concern.
The alignment you will need, though there may be some choices in what you need to get in order to adjust it. An alternative to C-C plates is camber bolts, though I will mention that some folks don't care for this approach as the bolt size is slightly smaller. If you can reliably measure camber the way the car sits now you might get some idea ahead of time whether camber correction will be required or if it's going to end up close enough for your driving to be optional. If you've got a level place to set up on, this is not as difficult as the $$$$$ alignment racks make you think it is.
When I did mine, I got a set of loaner spring compressors from AutoZone for free. That was about 20 months and 8,000 miles ago. I didn't do the struts and shocks. The factory ones are now shot and I am looking at doing them now.
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06 Tungsten Manual w/ Pony Package - X-Charger #52 HiPo Plus - Ford Racing Axleback
Vogtland V6 Lowering Springs - 8.8" Rear w/ 3.73's & T-Lock - J&M LCA's - CT-R Black Rims - Nitto NT555's
When I did mine, I got a set of loaner spring compressors from AutoZone for free. That was about 20 months and 8,000 miles ago. I didn't do the struts and shocks. The factory ones are now shot and I am looking at doing them now.
That's cool that you can do that for free, and I have an AZ near my house. After hearing your story, i guess i def. need those shocks and struts. What kind of drop do you have as far as inches?
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Lowering Springs: What else do I need and should I do it myself?
me cause I'm such a suspension noob, just trying to get my info from the horse's mouth and not trial by error buying.
good info, guys
