You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Out of nowhere I had my coolant blow out of my reservoir. Took it to the dealer and they said the the headgasket is broke, or I could have a cracked block that is allowing exhaust gases to enter my cooling system and over pressurizing the system to the point that it blows off.
They gave me three options.
1. Bite the bullet up front and put in a new motor with a 3yr/100mi. warranty. Most Expensive Option $5100 installed
2. Used Motor with a chance of this reoccurring and no warranty. 2nd most expensive.
3. Tear the motor down to the heads and have it possibly be just the head gasket. But I run the risk of it being more than the gasket itself, and having the problem snowball into my worst nightmare. and become really $$$$$
I have seen a few other posts where people have had the same problem. The car never once overheated. and has about 60k miles.
For those that have had this happen was it only the head gasket? or did it also wreck the heads?
Anybody know what choice I should make? or have any advice?
Thanks alot
used motors aren't that expensive. I've seen them around for $1,000. But I'd at least tear into the motor, it may be just a head gasket or like someone else had, a bad coolant cap. Always try the simplest things first, don't rebuild an engine for a bad sparkplug. Try the coolant cap first, then go to the next logical thing in line which is a compression test. Process of elimination and cool, clear headed thinking will save you a ton of dough.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________
her car; SMR #0951 06 V6 Pony, manual, mycolor, Shaker 1000, BMR lowering springs, adj track bar, center fog grill, 10" stripes, side window louvers, GT wheels. Pypes Violator cat back. Tri-bar grill emblem. GT500 splitter, rocker stripe delete, FIA/Shelby stripes, smoked front signals. FMC hood scoop.
My car, BMC #12073 black on black leather 05 GT. Manual, Shaker 1000, Shelby FIA stripes, NSP stainless axlebacks, Pro 5.0 shifter, Xenon window scoops.
You would think a Ford Dealer could diagnose this pretty quick. I've had no car since 7/6. It will sit and idle all day with no problems, drive it for 30min and it acts up.
I wonder about the Radiator cap, but they said they pressure tested the cooling system, and you usually check the cap too.
We'll see what the story is tomorrow morning.
i find it sickening that they will sell you a 25000 dollar car with ONLY a 36,000 mile warranty on a factory motor, then replace it with a dealer installed motor with a 100,000 mile warranty
Well today they called and were once again happy to tell me they fixed it, and it was just a stubborn air bubble. They drove over 100 miles the car no problem. Well I picked it up and brought it home only to have it spew antifreeze again. Once again they came with a flat bed and took it back. I am so pissed. Ford Motor company is also following this saga, and are at least picking up the tab on a rental once the dealership has one.
I still find it unbelievable to have to replace the engine without even KNOWING what is wrong with it. There is no way you should have to "bite the bullet"
Well it is obvious to me that the engine was not the problem, however they are still in denial. They refuse to acknowledge that they wasted their time on the new motor, and are barking up the wrong tree.
Just give me my $$$ back and let me take it somewhere else.
Ok Here is the final Solution. I'll try to explain it as best I can. Final Solution came from some master tech. at Ford.
It appears at some point the coolant tank deformed. This deformation caused the cap to not seal properly. With out a seal the system could not build up any pressure and with out pressure the boiling point of the coolant could be raised (like a pressure cooker). Under normal load the coolant never reached it's boiling point at atmospheric pressure and acted normally. Under load (ie. driving up long grades) the coolant would boil over. So they replaced the Coolant tank and cap.
The first time this happened my Fiance never told me that she saw steam from under the hood therefore I never knew and she drove it for several days with low coolant (the Temp. Gauge never indicated a problem and the car drove fine). It is at this point that the head was cooked. The tech. die tested the coolant and it reacted indicating a head or head gasket failure. So in the end we did need the new engine.
In the end I am glad the problem is solved, it was quite a headache. Also, Ford Corporate stepped up and because of the inconvenience we experienced is sending us a check for $1000. It won't cover the whole engine replacement, but it is better than nothing.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company