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Old 11-01-2009, 09:37 AM   #21
157db
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 Stang View Post
I thought Turtle Wax Ice was for paint? I'm confused by your post.

It is for paint but it is trim 'friendly' and leaves no white milky
after staining like the more common paste waxes do.
I like to test products on junk yard vehicles.
Apply the product to the various faded plastic trims
and check the lastingness of them over time.
The winner gains my approval and is then used
on the precious stang.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:14 AM   #22
GTJT2010
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I myself use the Ice on all the black, the only reason I don't use on paint is if you have water spots I found instead of making them go away they seal them and can't wipe away unless you take a clear coat friendly wax, hand rub ond and buff with a cloth, then back to a nice shine, the only place I have noticed a issue using ice on black was the rubber along door where window closes, I do notice a residue after wet weather but wipes off quickly with a cloth micro fiber that is, is the back to black better, heard talk?
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:04 PM   #23
chronos
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The reason you may experience more problems with the trim around the door window is because it is more porous. The more porous something is, the harder it is to get every last bit out of it. The smooth plastic sheath on the roof panel is much easier to wipe clean. I just stay away from the plastic when waxing. Makes my life easier. If you really have a problem staying away from plastics, use blue masking tape like Pascal said. That's what all body people do, specially when using a buffer. You can go faster and get really close to the edges with no problems or residue.
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